Ousted after demanding wine for Mass, Charleston County jail chaplain claims

Ousted after demanding wine for Mass, Charleston County jail chaplain claims

For a quarter century, Monsignor Ed Lofton has served as one of 86 volunteer chaplains at the Charleston County jail. Bringing calm to inmates and jailers alike is considered essential to his mission.

S.C. prison policy

Eucharist or Mass: The celebration of Mass is the central act of worship for Catholics. Catholics believe that Jesus Christ is truly present, body and soul, in the bread and wine received in the Holy Communion. This sacrament requires wine (required by church law) and bread (hosts).

A priest/bishop (the only ones to celebrate Mass) will be allowed to bring in bread and wine for Mass. Since wine is otherwise considered contraband in the SCDC, the priest/bishop will bring in only the amount necessary to meet the needs of the celebrant(s). (NOTE: This is usually about an ounce or two, since communicants will receive only the host at Communion.)

When this service is scheduled, the chaplain will notify security to ensure that the priest has necessary clearance.

Other items allowed for this service include vestments, altar and linen cloths, chalice, paten, pyx (host container), crucifix, and other items. A quiet room with adequate space for the service will be provided. If requested and available, a piano and hymn books will be provided.

S.C. Department of Corrections

That endeavor includes Communion, and for Catholics, wine is a necessary component.

But carrying wine into a facility where alcohol is labeled as contraband hasnt come without controversy. He has fought and won that battle before.

For 15 years, he has consumed 1 ounce of sacramental wine during Mass without incident. Inmates partake only in the bread.

But this week he lost a fight.
Chief Deputy Mitch Lucas, the jails administrator, has told Lofton to replace the wine brought to the jail in a TSA-approved container designed for holy water with grape juice.

He booted the chaplain Tuesday after he refused to do so.

Lucas said the move was necessary because Lofton had threatened to sue on the basis of a civil-rights violation. He didnt want the chaplain to continue visiting the jail and gathering evidence for a court claim, Lucas said.

The action has denied inmates a First Amendment right and a religious rite thats at the heart of what the Catholic Church is all about, Lofton said. He added that he would ask for Lucas firing during a meeting today with Sheriff Al Cannon.

They pull this on me after Ive been doing this for years, said Lofton, who leads St. Theresa the Little Flower Catholic Church in Summerville. Its pretty bad that I have to fight for something the Constitution allows. But this is religious freedom, and I’ll fight for it again.

The rules

Policies and laws governing sacramental wine in prisons vary.

Lucas, who has headed the detention center for seven years, contended that alcohol always has been banned in every form and that Lofton never used wine until recently, a claim that Lofton equated to blasphemy.

Neither of them knows why the issue suddenly came to a head this week, when the two wrangled verbally. Words were exchanged, and the quarrel ended with Lucas ordering the chaplain to leave and relinquish his badge.

I understand what his argument is, Lucas said. But its contraband. There are security concerns for not allowing alcohol in the jail.

The policy from the Charleston County Sheriffs Office limits foods and liquids not produced by the jails canteen, and regards alcohol as a dangerous combustible.

Guidelines allow religious expression unless the practice disrupts the facility or endangers people in it.

An exception for religious wine isnt apparent.

Unlike the countys rules, the S.C. Department of Corrections regulations specifically allow wine because its required by church law. During Mass, only a priest consumes it.

Each warden has the ability to say yes or no (for safety reasons), said John Barkley, a state corrections spokesman. But in our policy, its allowed in controlled amounts of 1 or 2 ounces.

Victoria Middleton, executive director of the American Civil Liberties Union of South Carolina, did not want to comment until the case is more thoroughly examined.

In national publications, the ACLU has supported freedom of worship among inmates, citing U.S. Supreme Court decisions that say jailers should accommodate faith-based diets.

Justices wrote in the 2002 decision Levitan v. Ashcroft, for example, that a prison regulation can impinge on inmates constitutional rights only if it has legitimate correctional value.

Maria Aselage, spokeswoman for the Catholic Diocese of Charleston, declined to comment on Loftons plight. Speaking generally, she said wine cannot be substituted.

Wine is essential, she said. Jesus used bread and wine at the Last Supper.

Equitable approach

Lucas is baffled by the issue and has lost sleep over it, he said. He had planned to contact attorneys to get a clearer picture of the law.

But the problem already has tarnished an otherwise positive relationship he has had with Lofton for many years, he said.

Allowing alcohol inside his jail, however, would open up the facility to others claiming a right to introduce contraband, he said. On such a slippery slope, Lucas wouldnt rule out inmates asking for peyote or sweat lodges.

Were going to be equitable no matter what the faith is, Lucas said. There are other faiths that may want to do something that would violate security issues, and we would not allow them to do that.

On Wednesday, Lofton walked through his Dorchester Road church, pointing out a 400,000-piece mosaic that he said is the largest in South Carolina. Lofton, 66, talked of his past as a reserve police officer and that he has logged more than 3,000 hours in a patrol cruiser.

I saw so much hatred and violence on duty, he said. I knew there had to be a better way, so I became a priest. I promised that I would always try to bring peace to that jail, and now I cant.

Reach Andrew Knapp at 937-5414.


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Women in Wine: The Three Graces

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2012-05-22-threegraces.jpgJoy Sterling, Laura Maniec, and Keiko Niccolini: The Three Graces

Women in Wine: The Three Graces

Recently I decided to conquer a great fear in my very storied and bizarre life — the dreaded Wine List. As a fashion designer, writer, and man about town I’m very fortunate to be invited to fancy and swanky restaurants, soirees and events. Therefore to put it plainly, I spend a fair amount of time inhaling great food and swigging fine wine. I know – don’t cry for me Argentina. However, not until recently did I truly realize I wasn’t fully appreciating the art, process and tradition of fine dining and particularly, the crafstmanship of great wine. But all of this about to change — and when Mister GoLightly decides to make a change, he brings everyone along for the ride.

The first thing I knew I would need to begin my transformation from vino novice to wine connoisseur was a team of experts. Yes experts, as I plan on taking my wine consumption very seriously from this point forward. Therefore I will require a trio of professionals to guide me in the right direction. So I decided to seek assistance from the people closest to me. I telephoned, emailed, and met with almost every person I knew that had anything to do with the wine business. However, what I found a little strange was that most of the people I knew in the wine biz were all men. While most of the men I spoke with were all very passionate and educated about wine, there was just something about their approach that didn’t quite fit with what I was trying to get at in my quest. I really wanted to know more about the sense of reverence that seems to surround the art of wine tasting and making. In essence, I really wanted to be educated on the beauty, charm and creativity of fine wine. Somehow, this got me to wondering, “Are there many women in the wine business?” I didn’t have very long to ponder the question as it was magically answered one fateful afternoon while having lunch at the Four Seasons in New York City. I started yammering on and on about my need to connect to people in the wine business when a dear friend said to me, “You should meet one of the owner’s daughter, Keiko. She knows all about wine.”

2012-05-22-keikofourseasons.jpgKeiko Niccolini / Four Seasons Restaurant

BEAUTY: The strikingly gorgeous and modelesque Keiko Niccolini was born into the charmed world of restaurants and fine dining — the venerable Four Seasons Restaurant to be exact. Legend has it that Keiko could filet a Dover sole and saber a bottle of champagne before she could ride a bike. As a young girl she could be found on any given day running through the hallowed halls of the family business. However, as an adult she now travels the world in search of new dishes and wines to bring to the tables of the Four Season as well as her wine consulting firm AMEDEO. Keiko as you can imagine, was destined for a life in food and wine.

And now, Keiko Niccolini has agreed to be my guru, my personal guide as I embark on a mysterious journey into and beyond Wine Tasting 101.

Under Ms. Niccolini’s tutelage and through the course of our adventures, I am hoping to come out on the other end a lot more knowledgeable and a little less afraid of sampling and experiencing new wines and spirits. It is also my desire to finally retire my catch phrase when it comes to choosing or drinking wine, “It doesn’t matter what I drink — I only drink to get drunk.” Which is only partly true. Who cares if every time I repeat it Keiko reacts as if someone has taken their well manicured fingernails and scratched them down a freshly wiped chalkboard. Well I care — and hopefully somewhere along the way, this juvenile retort will be retired and replaced with language that describes delicious wine with the respect and grace it rightfully deserves.

Needless to say, Keiko and I have become fast friends. Recently after attending a not-so-fabulous and actually quite boring soiree, she thought that it would be the perfect time for a surprise crash course in wine tasting — total emergence in wine culture. So she decided to introduce me to a real-life Master Sommelier, Ms. Laura Maniec.

2012-05-22-lauracorkbuzz.jpgLaura Maniec — Master Sommelier, CorkBuzz Wine Studio

CHARM: Laura Maniec is a Native New Yorker and the charismatic owner of Corkbuzz Wine Studio. During the course of our evening I learned that Laura actually discovered her true enthusiasm for wine through an 18-week sommelier certification class at Windows of the World. It was through this experience that she was inspired, motivated and excited to pursue a career in wine.

A girl after my own heart, just as Laura was legally able to drink she became a sommelier at Blue Fin in New York City. Progressing quickly, she was made a partner as well as wine and spirits director for the entire B.R. Guest Restaurant Group of 20 restaurants across the country. At only 25 years old, she was managing the wine list as well as educating the entire front-of-house team on wine.

It turns out the charming and personable Ms. Maniec earned her Master Sommelier designation in 2009 and is currently the youngest in the world. Not to mention she is one of only 18 women to have achieved this highest accreditation given to wine professionals. And on this night she too agreed to join the team and proceeded to give me a VIP guided tour through their intense and intimidating wine list. But for the first time in being presented a normally daunting wine list, I wasn’t afraid. I was almost downright giddy. What did I have to fear? I was now armed with not only a wine guru but also a master sommelier. Take that 33- or 72-page wine list! Okay, in all honesty, I may be exaggerating the personal attention given just to me by our master sommelier. You see Laura seems to possess the uncanny ability to give everyone that enters the doors of CorkBuzz the same level of attention and graciousness — an ability rarely found in New York City eateries these days.

To attempt description of the champagnes, reds, whites and rosés that danced and dazzled in my mouth on this evening would do CorkBuzz and Ms. Maniec a grave injustice. I don’t possess the eloquence to characterize the pas de deux that took place between the exquisite wine list and the culinary masterpieces prepared by their Executive Chef, Hayan Yi. I don’t dare attempt to formulate adequate prose to depict the near religious experience that visitors share in this tastefully decorated restaurant and wine bar. To try and fail would be borderline blasphemy. However after almost closing down the joint accompanied by a magnificent high that had no resemblance at all to being drunk, I felt as if I had to rush home and immediately repent, “Our Mother, Full of Grace…”

Which brings me to the most recent introduction to form my dream team, my trilogy, my Three Graces…

For several weeks during our tastings and outings, Keiko kept saying to me, “You have to meet my mentor in all things wine. You will love her.” I will admit, in my experience whenever someone says to me “You will love him or her,” this has rarely ever been the case. But this was coming from my guru — my liege, and she hadn’t steered me wrong thus far. So off I went the other afternoon, in the pouring New York City rain, to The Modern restaurant located at the Museum of Modern Art to meet Ms. Joy Sterling.

2012-05-22-joyironhorse.jpgJoy “Bubbles” Sterling, Iron Horse Vineyards

CREATIVITY: The inventive and visionary Joy Sterling represents the second generation of wine making at Iron Horse Vineyards. She is the CEO of the winery and the author of four books on the art of wine. Although she was born in America, Joy grew up in Paris, attended a French school, and speaks fluent French. Living in Europe and traveling extensively, Ms. Sterling received an extraordinary education in the appreciation of food and wine as well as a love of quality wherever it is found in the world.

Joy returned to the United States to attend Yale University where she studied history and economics. After her studies she went into journalism, first for United Press International, followed by local television, and ultimately, network TV news. At the age of 29, Joy was Deputy Bureau Chief for ABC Network News in Los Angeles. She was given numerous special assignments including coverage of the first Space Shuttle landings in California, coordinating producer for several Presidential trips, and the high point of her career, Assignment Editor for ABC’s 1984 Olympic coverage.

In 1985, Joy left ABC’s hierarchy to join her family’s business. Thus, a new sort of woman was recruited into California’s wine industry. Significantly, she made news headlines for the winery with her first achievement at Iron Horse. In November, 1985, the White House selected Iron Horse Sparkling Wine for the President’s toast to peace at the first summit meeting with Mikhail Gorbachev in Geneva.

Joy quietly took up the reins at Iron Horse at the start of 2006, having spent 20 years traveling on behalf of the winery, personally introducing the wines to an impressive list of customers from Spago in Beverly Hills to the Four Seasons in New York.

She is an adventurer, having climbed Kilimanjaro, run white water rapids on the Bio-Bio River in Chile and the upper reaches of the Yank Sing River in China, trekked in Tibet and Bhutan, and completed a road trip to Timbuktu.

Joy joined the prestigious Board of Trustees of The Leakey Foundation in 2007. One of her major initiatives is hosting an annual fundraising and awareness raising event in partnership with National Geographic celebrating Earth Day held at Iron Horse.

Now I ask you — What is there not to love about Joy a.k.a. @JoyBubbles? From the moment we made eye contact as I shuffled in from the pouring rain, looking more disheveled like Ms. GoLightly’s wet cat than the intended flawlessness of Holly off to visit Sally Tomato at Sing-Sing, I innately knew that I would be captivated and bewitched by the accomplished Joy Sterling.

Joy is earth-mother, rainmaker and wine whisperer wrapped into one stylish, hot-mama of a package. Did I mention she was also wearing a navy vintage Dior dress? I almost died and went to heaven at the sight of this magnificent being. The one thing you quickly learn about Joy within five minutes of being in her presence is that she is filled with love, life and passion. As we shared a bottle of her world famous Iron Horse Wedding Cuvee I found out that she is also a hugger, a great thinker, a visionary, a powerhouse, and just an awesome down-to-earth gal.

During the entire afternoon my eyes kept darting from Keiko to Joy, my mind was racing, but my mouth couldn’t keep up with all the thoughts bursting through my brain. I must have come across as a complete crazy person but what I couldn’t explain to either of these incredible women was how I was finally beginning to understand it all. How I understood there was more than just wine they had in common. How I could see the ancestral sisterhood, the kinship, an indigo hued spiritual camaraderie void of competition or pettiness. But mostly, I was in complete and utter awe. I found myself in an absolute state of humbled gratitude. Grateful that I had been allowed to bare witness to their sublime and noble grace.

As I finally sat down to write this piece, I couldn’t believe that in only a few short weeks I had already begun to develop a true appreciation for wines produced in Napa Valley as well as grapes grown in the Vittoria region of Sicily. I discovered that my preference for all things “pink and bubbly” had very little to do with my flamboyance and sexual orientation and much more to do with the various techniques and processes utilized to achieve just the right shade, smell and taste of Rosé. And while I am still at the very beginning stages of my wine adventures, I doubt very seriously if I will be drinking with the goal of getting drunk in mind (wink-wink). Instead, I envision buckling up and bracing myself for the long and meandering roads of wine country under the watchful gaze, generosity and guidance of my divine Three Graces.

Keiko Niccolin photos courtesy of Four Seasons Restaurant
Laura Maniec photos courtesy of CorkBuzz Wine Studio
Joy Sterling photos of Iron Horse Vineyards


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2012 Spring Wine Guide: To dine in wine country

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2012 Spring Wine Guide: To dine in wine country

If you want to get your day of wine tasting off to a great start, begin with an upscale breakfast at the Crescent Cafe in McMinnville. Late spring and early summer can be a glorious time to visit Yamhill County. The chance of getting a clear day increases with every turn of the calendar page, and when it’s sunny, you can enjoy dramatic vistas from the tasting rooms of wineries such as Domaine Serene and Lange Estate, which are very picnic-friendly. On dreary days, you’ll want to keep the blanket and the picnic basket in the trunk, and hit one of wine country’s wonderful restaurants for lunch or dinner. If possible, call ahead to ensure a table. The competition for tables at some restaurants can be fierce.

Bistro Maison: This delicious French bistro, with its cozy dining rooms and paper-topped tables, makes a convivial spot for a light lunch or a hearty dinner. Don’t miss the popular mussels that have been simmered in white wine, shallots and fresh herbs, served with homemade french fries, or the rustic coq au vin — both are a real deal at lunch, running just $16 and $15, respectively. And don’t overlook the daily specials, which include bouillabaisse and cassoulet. 739 N.E. Third St., McMinnville; 503-474-1888; bistromaison.com

Community Plate: This breakfast and lunch spot focuses on old-school cookery such as homemade granola, and biscuits and gravy, snacks like deviled eggs and spiced hazelnuts, and American classics like tuna melts, baked macaroni and cheese, and hand-cut fried potatoes. All menu items are made with ingredients grown nearby, keeping the kitchen as locally focused as possible. The best of both the breakfast and lunch menus are combined on Sundays for one of the best brunches in wine country. 315 N.E. Third St., McMinnville; 503-687-1902; communityplate.com

Crescent Cafe: When you walk into this happy breakfast and lunch spot, you’ll get a friendly hello from the dapper staff and a cup of strong coffee to sip while you wait for a table. The food proves worth the wait, whether it’s a perfectly prepared plate of corned beef hash or a stack of buttermilk pancakes with caramelized bananas. All the bread is made from scratch, including English muffins and potato-sourdough. If you like the bread, you can score a loaf to go. 526 N.E. Third St., McMinnville; 503-435-2655

Cuvée Restaurant: When chef-owner Gilbert Henry ran his seafood-centric Portland restaurant Winterborne, diners counted on a quirky dining experience with a heavy dose of cream sauce. Then he transplanted his act to Carlton and took a more mainstream approach. You’ll still find his signature crab juniper, with piping hot port-cream reduction, but you’ll also find beef Bourguignon and a rib-eye with pommes frites. 214 W. Main St., Carlton; 503-852-6555; cuveedining.com

Dundee Bistro: This casual restaurant emphasizes local, of-the-moment ingredients, many of them culled from the Willamette Valley, like a pizza topped with roasted chicken and squash, or chicken breast with lobster mushrooms and fingerling potatoes. While the restaurant is owned by the Ponzi wine family (they also own the adjacent Ponzi Tasting Room and Wine Bar), the wine menu reads like a who’s who of Oregon pinot noir producers. 100-A S.W. Seventh St., Dundee; 503-554-1650; dundeebistro.com

Joel Palmer House: Jack and Heidi Czarnecki opened this regional destination restaurant in 1997, relocating to Oregon from Pennsylvania because they wanted to cook close to the source of some of the world’s greatest wild mushrooms. The devotion to the fungi shows in the menu, with many dishes from chef Christopher Czarnecki (Jack and Heidi’s son) featuring hard-to-find varieties as a focal point (like a three-mushroom tart) or as subtle flavor counterpoints in sauces. For the full mushroom experience, opt for the $80-per-person “Mushroom Madness Menu,” a multi-course feast with mushrooms in every dish. Yes, even dessert! 600 Ferry St., Dayton; 503-864-2995; joelpalmerhouse.com

Jory: Newberg’s Allison Inn Spa features a first-class restaurant to go with its premium accommodations. The 84-seat dining room offers dramatic views of Yamhill County’s rolling hills, and the atmosphere is lush furnishings, fine linens and premium wine stemware. Chef de cuisine Sunny Jin emphasizes Northwest ingredients, with seafood playing a starring role. And because it’s connected to a hotel, there’s a full breakfast menu with things like brioche French toast and Dungeness crab Benedict. 2525 Allison Lane, Newberg, inside the Allison Inn Spa; 503-554-2526; theallison.com

La Rambla Restaurant Bar: Even on the rainiest Willamette Valley day, you always get a dash of sunny Spain at this fast-paced restaurant. Mix and match dishes from menus of hot and cold tapas, with nibbles like beef and pork meatballs, Rioja-braised calamari, and roasted beets with goat cheese. Then dig into a paella studded with shrimp, clams, chicken, chorizo and green beans. And if by the end of the day you’ve had your fill of wine, focus on the long list of specialty cocktails, including a dozen martinis. Daily happy hour from 4 to 6 p.m. features about 10 light bites at $3-$5. 238 N.E. Third St., McMinnville; 503-435-2126; laramblaonthird.com

Nick’s Italian Cafe:
This Italian kitchen has replaced its set-price, multi-course dinners with an a la carte menu, making it easier to afford dinner at this landmark wine country restaurant (though you can still order a $65 five-course chef’s menu). Focus on hand-made pastas like gnocchi and ravioli before segueing into heartier fare. If you want to eat less formally, there’s the Back Room, where locals and winemakers gather for simple wood-fired pizzas and simpler dishes. 521 N.E. Third St., McMinnville; 503-434-4471; nicksitaliancafe.com

The Painted Lady: This all-organic, Northwest-focused kitchen, which has been rated the Portland area’s best in a Zagat survey of America’s top restaurants, is open for dinner only, making it a perfect spot to stop while heading back to Portland after a day of wine country discoveries. Chef-owner Allen Routt offers a $65, five-course tasting menu that showcases the local and seasonal aesthetic (there’s a similarly priced vegetarian menu, too). For an additional $45 they’ll pair wines with each dish, though you can chart your own course from the well-chosen list of Northwest wines, including a nice selection of by-the-glass options. 201 S. College St., Newberg; 503-538-3850; thepaintedladyrestaurant.com

Paulée: As of press time, this new restaurant in the former Farm to Fork space at Dundee’s The Inn at Red Hills was still under construction, with an anticipated late-May opening. The name comes from the annual Burgundian harvest festival that brings farmers and winemakers together, which gives you a sense of what the kitchen’s mission will be. Heading the kitchen is chef Daniel Mondok, who developed a strong following at his Portland restaurant Sel Gris, and who spent time cooking at The Heathman Restaurant and Genoa. Expect a French-influenced menu built on local ingredients. 1410 N. Highway 99W, Dundee; 503-538-7970; innatredhills.com

Red Hills Market: One of the best new additions to wine country eating in recent years is this gourmet grocery and restaurant, where wood-fired ovens make crispy-crust pizzas and an ever-changing quiche. Hand-crafted sandwiches are filled with things like roasted turkey and cream cheese, Italian salami with provolone and arugula, and roast beef with blue cheese and caramelized onions. For $11, there’s the Vintner’s Lunch combo, which features a whole sandwich, Kettle Chips and a homemade cookie — perfect for take-out to enjoy at a winery picnic. 155 S.W. Seventh St., Dundee; 971-832-8414; redhillsmarket.com
 
Thistle: Chef Eric Bechard had a deserved following when he was chef at Portland’s now-closed Alberta Street Oyster Bar Grill. Now he and Emily Howard run what’s easily one of the most intimate and best restaurants in wine country, which was named The Oregonian’s Restaurant of the Year for 2011. The dining room has seating for about 20, with a few additional seats available at the chef’s counter, which overlooks the tiny kitchen where Bechard works the six-burner range like a culinary maestro. The chalkboard menu changes every day, with an array of small plates emphasizing local produce, seafood and meat. The idea is to mix and match two or three items to make a meal — a tapas approach to Northwest cuisine that’s refreshing. 228 N. Evans St., McMinnville; 503-472-9623; thistlerestaurant.com

Tina’s: This longtime Dundee restaurant celebrated 20 years last year and underwent a transformation, offering more vegetarian, vegan and gluten-free options alongside its traditional meaty dishes built on local ingredients, like braised lamb shanks and red wine and honey-glazed roasted rabbit. To drink, don’t miss the long list of Oregon pinot noirs, including many hard-to-find vintages that are perfect for special occasions. 760 Highway 99W, Dundee; 503-538-8880; tinasdundee.com

Grant Butler:  Follow him at twitter.com/grantbutler.


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Wine - More than just desserts


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Huon Hooke - Chateau Coutet and Aline Baly pics supplied

Changing the game … Chateau Coutet in Barsac, the French wine region that makes sauternes.

Wine – More than just desserts

‘Sweet wine with sweet foods” is an ingrained association for many people. Wines such as French sauternes and Australian botrytis semillons are often thought of as strictly for dessert. But it shouldn’t be so. To ignore savoury combinations with these great wines is to unreasonably restrict their possibilities. Aline Baly, whose family owns the sauternes premier cru property Chateau Coutet, says chicken is one of her favourite foods with sauternes. ”Roast chicken is our traditional Sunday meal,” she says, with Coutet of course. Her absolute favourite is lobster (”sweet wine with sweet meat”), but she recognises it’s not an everyday, or every-week, dish.

”I also love turkey rubbed with five-spice, garlic chicken, and dishes that involve lots of pepper and chilli – they’re great with sauternes,” she says. Another ideal savoury combination is cheese, especially creamy-textured blues, and roquefort is a no-brainer with sauternes because it’s local.

Chateau Coutet is in Barsac, a small appellation within the greater Sauternes region, in which Coutet and Chateau Climens are the only first growths. ”Every Barsac is a sauternes, but not many sauternes are Barsacs,” Baly says.

Ailine Baly, whose familiy makes sauternes in France, enjoys the wine with white meat as well as sweet food.

Aline Baly, whose family owns Chateau Coutet.

However, the appellation laws are the same for Barsac and Sauternes. The difference between the two is geographical area and soils.

”Barsac has red-brown clay soils over limestone; Sauternes has more gravel, which traps the heat,” Baly says.

All over France, the grape variety is chosen to suit the soil, and Sauternes is no different.

Sauterne from Chateau Coutet.

Chateau Coutet sauterne.

”At Coutet, we have 75 per cent semillon in the vineyard, 23 per cent sauvignon blanc and 2 per cent muscadelle,” Baly says. ”We try to stay true to these proportions when we make the assemblage.”

Because of soil differences, Chateau Climens is different: it’s 100 per cent semillon.

At Coutet, the sauvignon blanc is important. ”Planted on the limestone and clay, it gives the minerality, the raciness of Coutet,” Baly says. The name comes from the French word for knife: couteau. It’s a good descriptor as the wine usually has cut and vivacity.

That said, Chateau Coutet often breaks its own rules and releases a much richer, sweeter (and more expensive) super-cuvee named Cuvee Madame.

”We have just released the 2001 Cuvee Madame and it’s 100 per cent semillon,” Baly says. ”It comes from our best parcels of semillon from vines at least 45 years old.”

The wine of Chateau Coutet has been available in Australia for many years. However, the wines were different before the Baly family bought the property in 1977. They were considerably less sweet, lighter and usually had a fearsome level of sulphur dioxide. The chemical’s big advantage is to slow the ageing of the wine, but it is a two-edged sword. We had to wait years before drinking it but, on the other hand, it seemed to keep forever.

The sometimes hard and volcanic wines some readers may remember from the ’70s and early ’80s seem to be a thing of the past, no doubt thanks to the Baly family’s improvements, which are ongoing. A tasting of six vintages – 2008, ’07, ’06, ’05, ’97 and ’89 – showed a more luscious style, fresher and more fruit-forward, with delicious flavours and great balance.

When young, they smell of pineapple and other tropical fruits; when more mature, of marmalade and apricot jam. Of course, the style fluctuates according to season: the more heavily botrytis-affected years give richer, sweeter and more opulent wines, which age longer. And even the sweeter vintages seem to become drier when they are mature, which is one of the mysteries of sweet wines generally. The sugar doesn’t go away, but age modifies the wine’s balance so that it tastes less sweet. For this reason, older sauternes should be tasted after younger ones, and should be teamed with different foods – savoury foods are even more likely to suit.

In our tasting, the serving order Baly chose was ’06, ’08, ’05, ’07, ’97 and ’89. The ’89 was last not because it’s the sweetest but because it’s a great vintage, and mature, and it’s always good to finish on a high note.

As Baly says, it’s a wine for sitting in front of an open fire and thinking about changing the world. A meditation wine.

The ’07 is a great wine now, in all its youthful freshness and lusciousness, but Baly says she would cellar this one and, when it’s mature, treat it as a meditation wine like the ’89 is now. Well, you could do both very happily.

The ’07 ($175), ’06 ($135) and ’05 ($145) are currently available in the trade, which means the wholesaler Negociants has stock. Any top fine-wine retailer should be able to source them for customers.

My favourite of the group was the ’07, closely followed by ’05.

These are show-stoppers: lush, rich, sweet and beautifully balanced, a filled with different aromas and flavours. The one disappointment was the ’97, which was oxidised – this, Baly agreed was a problem of the bottle, not the vintage in general, attributable to cork failure.

I’m told cork taint reared its head at other Coutet tastings around town. Asked the obligatory question, of whether Coutet would ever consider changing to a different closure, her response was: ”We will consider it when Chateau Yquem does!”

Hell will freeze first. It’s a refrain one hears all over France: winemakers who have a lot to lose will not risk a massive rejection by consumers. Till then, we have to roll the dice. It’s a pity, as the wines are superb when the corks allow.

[email protected]

Match makers

The Baly family have an online cookbook with recipes designed to go with sweet wines, including savoury dishes. They invite people to share their food-matching ideas, especially chefs and sommeliers. See chateaucoutet.com.

TASTINGS

A FEATHER IN THEIR CAP

De Bortoli has unveiled a new cork-free closure for sparkling wine. It’s a screw cap, not unlike that on most Australian and New Zealand still wines. But, while the conventional screw cap can be used on lightly sparkling wines, such as moscato, it cannot be used on full-pressure sparkling wine. Now, new technology has brought us the Viiva closure system, which can withstand the traditional five atmospheres of pressure. The Viiva screw cap is used on De Bortoli’s modestly priced Trevi range and its catering sparkler, Willowglen. Catering is one area where the speed of the Viiva is likely to prove popular. Other benefits include avoidance of cork-derived taints, oxidation and the loss of carbon dioxide. And the bottle can be resealed easily. The Viiva closure was developed by Guala Closures Australia and the special bottle by glass maker O-I.

FRANCK ASSESSMENT

Star sommelier Franck Moreau has won yet another award, crowned Best Sommelier of Asia-Oceania 2012 at the recent Association de la Sommellerie Internationale contest in South Korea. This qualifies Moreau to compete in the Best Sommelier of the World contest in Japan next year. Moreau works as group sommelier for Merivale’s extensive restaurant and club interests in Sydney, which includes three-hatted Est., as well as one-hatted Felix and Uccello. He was admitted to the elite club of Master Sommeliers last year and was Sommelier of the Year in the 2010 Sydney Morning Herald Good Food Guide Awards.

THE COST OF GREATNESS

Tesseron Tres Vieux Extreme Noir is the greatest Cognac I’ve ever tasted. At between $4000 and $4500 for a 1.75-litre bottle, this Cognac is aimed fair and square at the collector market. Beautifully packaged in a flask-shaped bottle modelled on a demijohn, it is possibly the oldest Cognac available – certainly one of the oldest. The oldest Cognac in the blend is from 1865 and the youngest is no later than the 1920s. The bouquet and flavour are unimaginably complex, with extreme rancio character and an array of scents from polished wood to roasted nuts to various dried fruits, as well as vanilla and chocolate, toffee and old leather upholstery. The flavour is explosive: immensely powerful, concentrated, with silken texture and ballerina-like balance. Unlike very old fortified wines, there is no hint of senility, but instead, amazing vitality and freshness. For inquiries, phone 1300 610 919. Sepia restaurant in Sydney’s city centre has purchased one of the three bottles to come to Australia and is serving Extreme by the taste ($110 for 30 millilitres), or in a flight of three Tesseron Cognacs with Lot 53 and Lot 29 ($74).

A REAL WHIZ

From time to time, I am encouraged to improve my drinking experience by spinning wine bottles in an electric magnetiser, or other aerating gadgets. Usually they cost a lot and don’t appear to give any benefit. The American author of Modernist Cuisine: The Art and Science of Cooking, Nathan Myhrvold, has come up with a free version. He uses his blender to ”hyperdecant” wine – he whizzes it on high speed for 30 seconds to 60 seconds, allows the froth to subside, then pours. Ever curious, I tried it with a Voyager Estate ’08 Cabernet Merlot. I compared the whizzed sample with the untreated wine in a blind tasting. The former had lost a little of its aroma, was slightly warmer and seemed creamier in texture – perhaps because the hyper-aeration had filled it with air, rather like a souffle. The surprising discovery was this abuse did not ruin the wine – both were equally pleasurable. To try it yourself, see tinyurl.com/6jyu3pj.

Bill & Sheila’s Wine

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Look to Washington for value on good wine

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Look to Washington for value on good wine

FINDING GOOD value wines is arguably the most important service a wine column can provide. But first you must know what you’re looking for. What constitutes a value wine?

It’s not as simple as a low price point or a steep discount. Most $6 wines are worth $6, and no more. Many wines are being discounted these days — even in Bordeaux they are talking about knocking as much as 50 percent off the price of the wines from the next vintage to be sold. Even so, half off wines that are so stratospherically priced doesn’t make them bargains.

Given that I taste many thousands of wines every year, I have an unusually large database from which to cull the best values. So it makes sense to look at them by some combination of price and competition. In any group of comparably priced wines from similar blends and competitive regions, which are the standouts? Among dozens of countries and scores of wine regions within them, where are the best values to be found?

Overseas, I find great values in the wine of Greece, Italy, Spain and Southern France. Argentina and Chile are the New World value leaders. Inside our borders, although California makes 10 times as much wine as all other states combined, I truly believe it is Washington (and in some instances, Oregon) that offers the widest variety of value wines.

These are wines that will outshine their competition and offer flavor and complexity far beyond their cost. Riesling, gewürztraminer, pinot gris, merlot and syrah are the varieties that offer the most distinctive wines at the best prices. Red blends and cabernet-based wines are a bit more expensive, but in their respective categories, excellent values are to be found.

Recommended, by varietal category:

Washington Hills 2011 Riesling; $10. Arresting scents of jasmine tea and honeysuckle give this an enticing floral character.

Sawtooth 2011 Riesling; $11. An Idaho wine, spicy and substantial, with apple and melon fruit, and hints of clove and ginger.

AntoLin Cellars 2010 Glacier Estate Vineyard Riesling; $14. Tangy citrus, peaches, apricots and papaya. The length, acidity, texture, mouthfeel, depth and freshness of this Yakima Valley wine are exceptional.

Hogue 2010 Genesis Riesling; $16. Irresistible aromas of citrus, stone and exotic tropical fruits lead into flavors of ripe peaches, brightened with vivid acidity.

Hogue 2010 Gewürztraminer; $11. With the snap and concentration of a tasty lemon drop cocktail, this lovely gewürztraminer is perfumed, not soapy, with superb flavors of peaches and citrus.

Waterbrook 2011 Sauvignon Blanc; $12. Bright, spicy, pungent scents of new-mown lawn, herb, pine needle, citrus and melon mark this fresh, clean, textural wine.

Eight Bells 2010 Pinot Gris; $18. This up-and-coming Seattle winery makes an excellent Oregon pinot gris. It’s richly scented, stylish and long.

Raptor Ridge 2011 Pinot Gris; $18. Light citrus, cucumber and melon flavors mingle in a clean and refreshing white wine, perfect for warm weather.

Castle Rock 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon; $12. Smooth and supple, with cranberry, black cherry and delicate suggestions of mushroom, cocoa and dusty earth.

Maryhill 2009 Cabernet Sauvignon; $17. Tight and focused, this has a fine core of black cherry and cassis fruit.

Gifford Hirlinger 2009 Stateline Red; $16. Mostly cabernet with splashes of malbec, tempranillo and petit verdot, this is focused and concentrated, with coffee-cake highlights.

Plumb Cellars 2009 Plumb Crazy Red; $18. A blend of syrah and merlot, this marries botanical highlights to a base of citrusy, red-berry fruits.

Paul Gregutt’s blog is www.paulgregutt.com. Email: [email protected].


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New wine glasses aim to balance water and fire



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New wine glasses aim to balance water and fire

HONG KONG |
Tue May 15, 2012 3:06am EDT

HONG KONG (Reuters) – Could a wine glass shaped roughly like a closed tulip blossom revolutionize the savoring of fine vintages by taming the alcohol in the wine?

That’s the hope of French luxury crystal glassmaker Baccarat, which recently began sales of its new line of glasses in Hong Kong, where wine imports have remained strong on the back of strong demand from mainland Chinese buyers even amid global economic uncertainty.

“People tend to confuse good wine with alcohol in wine, which is not what we want,” said Bruno Quenioux, technical adviser of the Chateau Baccarat collection of professional wine glasses, which went on sale in France earlier this year.

“What is complicated with wine is to get the balance between the fire and water. Get too much fire in the wine and you lose the message of the water… But if you put too much water in the fire, then the fire is dead.”

The glass has a broad base that evokes the tastevin, a saucer-like cup used by winemakers and sommeliers to taste wines, sloping sides and an unusually narrow lip at the end of a vertical “chimney” that the company says prevents the alcohol from overpowering other aromas since it sinks down when the glass is swirled prior to tasting.

“The main subject in the final stretch should no longer be the alcohol anymore, but the aromas and the bouquet the fine wines have to offer,” Quenioux told Reuters, adding that the new glass made the aroma more subtle.

“You can see the smokiness, some flowers, definitely the glass leads you to have the mineral side of the wine… When you go back to the regular glass, you have rusticity. You have something not so subtle.”

But other glassmakers disagree, saying there is still merit in time-honored variations tailored to the different wine varieties – variations to which they have given subtle modern twists.

“I think as people start appreciating wine more, that they will appreciate a pinot glass, a cabernet glass, a shiraz glass. They’re all a little bit different,” said Suresh Kanji, a Hong Kong-based distributor for Riedel Crystal, based in Austria.

The ubiquitous Riedel has put efforts into developing different glasses for different varieties through the years and in the 1970s discovered that each separate variety had a specific DNA.

“Based on that DNA, the shape of the glass actually makes the experience for the consumer very, very different,” said Kanji.

“The big bowl – great for red wine. The smaller glasses – good for white wine… Every glass was fine-turned for the specific DNA of what you’re drinking.”

Wine experts agree that given the differences in how “forthcoming” each variety may be, proper handling of the alcohol in fine wines is key.

“Burgundy is very delicate wine, so it needs a larger surface area to release and free its aromas,” said Debra Meiburg, a Master of Wine and wine journalist.

“Burgundy (glasses) comes to quite a narrow lose at the chimney in order to capture the aroma and trap them in the glass.”

And yes, she said, the glass does matter.

“Of course any glass would work. But just as you would prefer not to drink your coffee in a paper cup, it’s always nicer to have the right quality of glass.”

(Additional reporting by Andy Ho, editing by Elaine Lies)


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Chinese wine market grown by 20 percent

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Chinese wine market grown by 20 percent

While China’s wine lovers continue their obsession with French vintages, a number of local labels are determined to lead the charge to convince them that Chinese winemakers can compete with the very best there is.

Dynasty Fine Wines is based near the city of Tianjin – about a 30-minute train ride from the capital Beijing – and has established a network of around 15 vineyards across the country, which grow not only native Chinese grape species such as Dragon’s Eye but increasingly have turned to the more internationally recognized cabernet sauvignon, merlot and cabernet franc varieties.

There is an “overwhelming preference for dark, tannic red wines in China” – according to the China Wines Information Website – which says this is because Chinese consumers are judging their wines less on taste and more on “what is deemed socially acceptable – or aspirational – to consume.”

To the great majority of those buying at the high-end of the wine market, that basically means vintages from the famed and historic wine growing regions of Bordeaux and Burgundy, hence French wines account for around half of China’s entire wine imports.

But the people at Dynasty want to change that kind of thinking.

The label will be out in force at the Vinexpo Asia-Pacific wine fair – to be held in Hong Kong from May 21-29 – and on show will be its high-end range of red wines.

“People prefer Louis Vuitton to domestic brands these days. The same goes with wine,” company chairman Bai Zhisheng told the South China Morning Post.

But Bai said that Dynasty’s top range of reds – which sell for around 1,400 yuan (171 euros) per bottle – would account for 30 percent of its output within five years, up from the current 10 percent, as the company increased its marketing push and its distribution.

Dynasty has no plans as of yet to tackle the international wine market and another one of China’s leading wine labels also believes that Chinese winemakers should conquer their own market before setting their sight overseas.

And it makes sense considering wine consumption in China is growing at a faster rate than anywhere else in the world, according to industry reports, and the market has grown by 20 percent over each of the past five years.

The Great Wall label has wineries at both Sanggan and Huaxia in the northern Hebei province and another near Junding in the eastern Shangdong province growing more than 10 varieties of grapes.

The state-run China National Cereals, Oils and Foodstuffs Corp, which owns the label, last year brought in renowned French winemaker Michel Rolland – ex of Chateau Angelus, Chateau Lascombes and Chateau Beau-Sejour Becot – to help both improve the quality of its wines and to teach a new generation of Chinese winemakers all the secrets he learned back in France.

“We have brought in the best kind of vines, but we also need a good wine maker, just as a decent restaurant needs a good chef, the company’s vice-chairman Chi Jingtao told the China Daily.

He said the company had invested heavily in established vineyards in France, Italy and Australia as it looked to produce vintages from the red grape varieties it had imported such as cabernet sauvignon.

“We will look for more high-end global acquisitions later, as the immediate priority is to have more products in the domestic market. No other market is growing as rapidly as China,” Chi said.


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How to speak wine bar now

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How to speak wine bar now

As in all fashion systems, the goal seems to be for insiders to distinguish themselves sharply from outsiders by creating barriers to comprehension. In other words, you can’t join the club without cracking the code.  What follows attempts to show how the code operates in this particular instance. It also suggests how reflecting on the means we use to conceptualize wine can offer insights into what we choose to drink and why.

In the chart, the y (vertical) axis represents the degree to which the grape variety used to make a wine is (geographically) either widely or narrowly planted.   The axis represents the degree of technical intervention in the vineyard and cellar applied to producing the wine. The assumptions are that the hierarchy of hipness in wine now runs along these lines: high prestige wines derive from the most localized grape varieties treated to the least manipulation in the vineyard and cellar, while low prestige wines have exactly the opposite profile.

Hurrah for Michel Gahier, then, whose wine is made from a grape (trousseau) found almost exclusively in the Jura, the region in eastern France where Arbois (a delimited growing area in France’s appellation d’origine controlee system and rather obscure in its own right) is located. One could argue about just how far out on the x and y axes Gahier’s wine deserves to be  (he is a noted advocate of the naturalist approach). But let’s not quibble, the pairing of a hyper-local varietal with a minimum of technical intervention constitute a twin killing (quadrant 1). Score it Exceedingly Hip, at the very least.

But boo, hiss for Kendall-Jackson Vinter’s Blend Merlot, relegated to quadrant 4 for combining one of the world’s most widely planted and widely recognized grape varieties (merlot) with relentlessly technical winemaking . Your 25 year-old sommelier with the skinny jeans and the narrow-brimmed fedora wouldn’t give it so much as a sniff – not even for purposes of appearing ironic. On the plus side: your mother might like it.

We relegate Georges Duboeuf’s Beaujolais Nouveau to quadrant 3 because although its constituent grape, the gamay noir, isn’t an everyday varietal, it’s far from what would qualify as exotic and so doesn’t get us too far on that score. On top of that,  Duboeuf’s ocean of Nouveau is first sourced from hundreds (?) of mediocre or worse vineyards, then tortured into humdrum consistency via a punishing degree of technical manipulation,  pushing its x coordinate deep into the ‘most worked’ red zone.  Can’t do better than quadrant 3, I’m afraid, Georges.  Come back when fashions change . . . for the worse.

Coturri’s Maclise Vineyards Merlot presents something of a dilemma, too, but shifted to a different axis.  The Coturri brothers are celebrated as uncompromising practitioners of naturalist winemaking in California – a stature that assures them a gratifyingly remote position far out at the ‘least worked’ end of our x axis. They lose some cred for working with the hackneyed merlot, but my guess is that in terms of grading the cool, a naturalist approach trumps a trite varietal every time.  There would be extra points if Tony Coturri shaved his lavish beard down to a soul patch and replaced his overalls with jeggings, but we put them firmly in quadrant 2.

Exactly why we privilege one kind of wine over another at a given point in time isn’t entirely clear, but as with most things, there are rules at work and a quad chart is often a good way of sussing it out.  Feel free to use it in your next visit to one of those puzzlingly ironic wine bars.

But if you get arrested for impersonating a hipster, you’re on your own.

Stephen Meuse can be reached at [email protected]

Follow @stephen_meuse

Bill & Sheila’s Wine

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Wine: In defense of rosé

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Wine: In defense of rosé

From time to time I feel the need to rise to the defense of rosé wine. They just don’t get the respect they deserve.

True, a decade or so ago a spate of soft, sweet, bland rosés and “blush” wines — Kool-Aid stuff — flooded the market and hurt rosé’s reputation. But today there are dozens of rosés that are dry, crisp, complex, intensely fruity and wonderful matches for food — from small-plate tapas to spiral-cut, honey-baked ham.

Rosés vary widely in character, in part because they can be made from just about any red grape. In the tasting notes below are rosés made of 15 grapes, from cabernet sauvignon to pinot noir to zinfandel.

Rosés are a product of the fact that even red grapes give off white juice. The longer the juice sits on the red skins, the more color it picks up. So winemakers let the skins soak until the juice has the color and flavor they want, then separate them.

Being somewhere between white wine and red wine in character, rosés naturally go well with a variety of foods. They’re excellent with Spanish tapas, from chorizo sausage to potato-based tortillas.

Fish? Why not? Especially healthy-fat fish such as salmon and tuna.

Ham? Pink meat with pink wine: How can you miss?

Rosés are great picnic wines. Toss a bottle in the ice chest, tote it to the beach and serve it extra cool with chicken or tuna salad, deli meats, sandwiches of all kinds, even fresh-cut chunks of fruit.

Rosés have the restraint to go with vegetarian, even vegan foods. Big, charcoal-grilled steaks? Not so much.

Finally, rosé wines don’t take themselves too seriously. You’re hard-put to find one over $20. You don’t have to slosh them around in your mouth and pontificate over them. You can just drink them. And isn’t that nice?

Highly Recommended

•  2010 Tapeña Rosé, Tierra de Castilla, Spain (garnacha, monastrell, shiraz grapes): dry and crisp, with tart cherry and pink grapefruit flavors; $10.

•  2010 “Enjoue” Rosé, by Lassiter Family Winery, Sonoma Valley, Calif. (syrah, mourvedre, grenache): light and lively, with flavors of strawberries, lemons, apricots; $24.

•  2011 Chateau Saint Sulpice Sarah Rosé, Bordeaux, France (merlot, cabernet sauvignon): dark hue, full and rich and complex, with flavors of blackcurrants and spice; $15.

Recommended

•  2011 Rosé, Michel Torino Coleccion, Cafayete, Argentina (malbec): crisp, with flavors of black cherries and cinnamon; $13.

•  2010 “Cape Bleue” Rosé, by Jean-Luc Colombo, Coteaux d’Aix en Provence, France (syrah, mourvedre, counoise); rich and full, with flavors of cherries, apricot and licorice; $12.

•  2010 Clayhouse Adobe Pink Wine, “Red Cedar Vineyard,” Paso Robles, Calif. (mourvedre, syrah, cabernet sauvignon): hint of sweetness, flavors of strawberries and cinnamon; $14.

•  2011 Jaboulet “Parallele 45” Cotes du Rhone Rosé, Rhone Valley, France (grenache, cinsault, syrah): full-bodied and rich, with flavors of black cherries and minerals; $15.

•  2011 Carlo Santi “Infinito” Rosé, Veneto, Italy (corvina, rondinella, molinara): light and dry, with flavors of tart cherries and cloves; $12.

•  2011 Hecht Bannier Rosé, Languedoc-Roussillon, France (grenache, syrah, cinsault): rich and full, with flavors of red plums and a hint of minerals; $15.

•  2011 “Attitude” Rosé, by Pascal Jolivet, Loire Valley, France (pinot noir, cabernet franc, gamay) rich and full, with flavors of tart cherries and a hint of minerals; $15.

Fred Tasker has retired from The Miami Herald but is still writing about wine. He can be reach at [email protected].

Bill & Sheila’s Wine


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Is celebrity wine worth the price?

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TODAY.com/Featurepics


Is celebrity wine worth the price?

There is one overriding reason people will consider buying the new white wine with the big “B” on the label, and it can be summed up by the name above it: Barrymore. Drew Barrymore has gone into the wine business, and her first release is not from California, where so many Hollywood and other celebrities have dabbled in wine, but from Italy.


While the marketing notes declare that “the discovery of new wines, new regions and new vintages is what keeps wine exciting to novices and enthusiasts alike,” Barrymore has turned to the familiar: She has given us another pinot grigio. And while her motto is “from our family to yours,” don’t be misled. The actress may have put her name and her family crest on the label, but the wine is made by Decordi, a large winery in Lombardy in northern Italy. They have produced a wine that is good, if not great — a solid “B,” so to speak — which may nonetheless be good enough for many starstruck Americans lured by the Barrymore name and willing to pay a premium for it (the $20 suggested price is higher than many pinot grigios on the market).

Barrymore’s 2011 Pinot Grigio delle Venezie has notable minerality, which lingers in the mouth and is its strong point. Some fruit notes, particularly apple and citrus, emerge as the wine warms up a bit, but I would have liked even more fruit. There’s also an ample herbal note. Beyond obvious fish pairings, it would work well with an asparagus risotto. It’s certainly drinkable, but I have enjoyed other pinot grigios more – for less. (In a quick check at one wine store in my Manhattan neighborhood, I found 11 pinot grigios, nine of them under $20.)

Barrymore is just the latest celebrity to turn to wine. This week, Wine Spectator reported that Black Eyed Peas singer Fergie has bought a vineyard in California’s Santa Ynez Valley and plans to make syrah, cabernet sauvignon and viognier under the Ferguson Crest label.

If Frances Ford Coppola is the “godfather” of the celebrity wine movement, others who have followed him more recently include Madonna, who, with her father, is involved in Ciccone Vineyard and Winery in northern Michigan; Wayne Gretzky and Dan Aykroyd, who produce wine under their own labels in Canada;  Nancy Pelosi, who owns two vineyards that supply fruit to other wineries in California; Jeff Gordon, who has a passion for fast cars and also for making high-end California wines; and Dave Matthews, who owns Blenheim Vineyards in Charlottesville, Va., and also has a collaborative effort in California with Steve Reeder, the winemaker at Simi Winery in Sonoma.

Matthews’ California label is called The Dreaming Tree (named after one of his songs), and there are three $15 wines. The other night I bought Dreaming Tree’s 2009 Crush, a North Coast blend of merlot and zinfandel, hoping for something that would rise above the ordinary. But it, too, was just OK. Its dark berry fruit, relatively soft tannins and considerable oak influence could describe dozens of comparably priced California reds competing for shelf space, many of them with similarly catchy names.

In my research, I found dozens of celebrities who are attaching their names and their money to wine. But I also found very few doing so in the under-$20 category. And that may be just as well. Beyond the boldface names on the labels, it seems to me, celebrity wines, at least on the value end, don’t have a lot to offer. (The Barrymore wine was received as a press sample.)

Edward Deitch is a James Beard Award-winning wine critic. Find many more of his wine reviews and commentary on his blog, Vint-ed.com, and follow him on Twitter.

More from TODAY Food:

  • A stand-out $16 California cabernet
  • Try these two $10 hits from Austria
  • Sips that hit the sweet spot
  • Video: Celebrate spring with wines under $20  

 


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