Know your vinegar

Know your vinegar

The term “vinegar” comes from the French vin aigre, or sour wine. It is also used to describe other soured, alcohol-based liquids, such as those made from cider, malt or rice wine. Souring is a natural process that occurs when a liquid containing less than 18 per cent alcohol is exposed to the air. Bacteria present in the air react with the alcohol to produce a thick, mouldy looking skin over the surface of the liquid, which is called the “mother.” In simple scientific terms, the mother is a layer of yeast cells and bacteria that converts the alcohol into a natural acetic acid, and it is this acid that gives vinegar its characteristic sharpness.

Although this reaction does occur naturally, it is not always consistent. To produce quality vinegars, the speed and temperature of this process must be controlled. This explains why it is not enough to leave an open bottle of wine or ale on the kitchen counter for a few days and expect it to turn into vinegar. If unmonitored, the souring process can result in loss of flavour, or in further bacterial action and the production of unpleasant bitter flavours. In the kitchen, wine vinegars are indispensable for salad dressings, marinades and deglazing. Rice wine vinegar is vital for flavouring the rice in sushi, and malt vinegar is used in many pickles and, of course, on authentic, British-style fish and chips.

Types of Vinegar

In general, wine vinegars are required to have at least 6 per cent acetic acid, while other vinegars range between 4 and 6 per cent. Slight variations in acidity levels are barely perceptible on the palate; they need be of concern only when preparing pickles or other preserves.

Wine, malt and cider vinegar are strong, but distilled and spirit vinegars are even stronger. While any vinegar can be distilled, malt vinegar is most often used for this process. The distillation concentrates the acetic acid, increasing the level above 6 per cent.

The vinegar made in any given country tends to reflect the produce of the region. Winemaking countries, such as France, Italy and Spain, produce wine vinegars. Where apples are a main crop, as in parts of North America, cider vinegar represents the bulk of production. Beer-brewing countries, such as Britain, produce malt vinegar. In the Far East, where wine is made from rice, a mild variety of rice wine vinegar containing 2 to 4 per cent acetic acid is most widely used.

Wine vinegar: This is produced from both red and white wines, and the quality of the vinegar depends greatly on the quality of the wine. The finest wine vinegars are made by the Orleans method, which allows wine to ferment slowly and naturally (at about 70°F; 21°C) in oak barrels until the mother forms on the surface. However, this method is lengthy and costly, and many manufacturers speed up the process by raising the temperature. This results in a less costly—but also an inferior quality— vinegar.

There are almost as many types of wine vinegar as there are wines. Cham¬pagne vinegar has a pale colour and delicate flavour, while Rioja vinegar has a deep red colour and a full rich taste. Sherry vinegar, with its deep caramel colour and well-rounded mellow flavour, is matured in wooden casks similar to those in which the sherry is made and can be expensive.

As winemaking develops in North America and Australia, new kinds of vinegars, such as those made from California Zinfandel grapes, are emerging. A wine vinegar that has gained recognition in cuisines around the world is aceto balsamico, or balsamic vinegar. Made in Modena in northern Italy, it is named for the Italian word for “balm” referring to the smooth, mellow character of this unique vinegar.

Balsamic vinegar is made from unfermented grape juice that is aged in wooden casks. The quality of the finished product depends a great deal on the type of wood used and the skill of the vinegar maker. The finest vinegars are aged for a minimum of 10 years; the maximum aging time can extend for many decades.

Balsamic vinegar production demands an artistry equal to the production of a great wine. In Modena, fine aged balsamic vinegar may be served as an after-dinner drink. Traditionally made balsamic vinegar can be costly, although an industrially made version does exist and is an acceptable substitute for the traditional kind in most recipes.

Cider vinegar: Apple pulp or cider can be made into cider vinegar following the same method used to produce wine vinegar. There are recipes that call specifically for cider vinegar, but it has a strong, sharp flavour and so should only be used where it complements the other ingredients.
Commercial cider vinegars, which are filtered, are a pale brown colour. Home-produced versions can become cloudy, but this does not affect their taste or indicate an inferior quality. The flavour is not smooth and refined enough for most salad dressings, but it can be used successfully in fruit pickles.

Malt vinegar: Made from malted barley, this type is most often used as a pickling vinegar for onions and other vegetables. Malt vinegar has too strong a flavour for use in salad dressings, but is the perfect condiment for fish and chips.

Powerful distilled malt vinegar, which is colourless, is for pickling watery vegetables, such as cucumber, which are likely to dilute the vinegar. It is also used in the manufacture of sauces and chutneys and is sometimes coloured with caramel to produce brown malt vinegar.

Spirit vinegar: The strongest of all vinegars, this is used almost exclusively for pickling. It differs from distilled vinegar in that it contains a small quantity of alcohol.

Rice vinegar: Most common in the cuisines of Asia, this type is made from soured and fermented rice wines. Japanese rice vinegars are mellow and mild, while vinegar from China is sharp and sometimes slightly sour.

Depending on the rice used, Chinese vinegars are red or white in colour. Like vinegars in the West, rice vinegar is often flavoured. Soy sauce and mirin, or sweet rice wine, can be added, along with spices and flavourings such as gingerroot, dried bonito flakes, chilies, sesame seeds, onions, horseradish and mustard. There is also available a black Chinese vinegar, which is obtained from wheat, sorghum and millet instead of rice.

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Let’s Talk Food: Viva vinegar - variety, versatility

vinegar

Let’s Talk Food: Viva vinegar – variety, versatility

It is difficult to imagine a well-stocked pantry without vinegar. This tangy, useful and flavorful product is one of our commonest ingredients, and one we are seldom without.

In recent years, this common, ordinary substance has been elevated from its lowly place on the culinary ladder to a more lofty position. Vinegar is a now all dressed up and on display in the gourmet food section of food markets.

Gourmets are ecstatic at the variety of flavored vinegars offered in the most expensive food emporiums. Noted chefs throughout the world have discovered the versatility of vinegar; especially balsamic vinegar, a rare and expensive ingredient that is as lionized as the finest wines.

The production of vinegar began in France in the 17th century, but food historians have found the ancient Greeks and Romans used vinegar. It is mentioned numerous times in the Bible.

Wine vinegar, the original vinegar, takes its name from the French “vin aigre” — sour wine. Wine vinegar is made by allowing a specific bacteria (mycoderma aceti) to react with alcohol and oxygen to create acetic acid, the substance that gives vinegar its pleasant sharpness.

In the early days of vinegar-making, as practiced by the French more than 200 years ago, the vinegar was made in hundreds of small oak casks. Each day, the stopper on each cask was removed to allow air to reach the wine, and the cask was rocked back and forth to work the air down into the liquid.

During the 19th century, the vinegar generator was invented. This large wooden tank is loosely filled with wood shavings and the wine is slowly released onto this filler. It takes about a week for the liquid to trickle to the bottom, where it is collected as vinegar.

In the middle of the 20th century, a German inventor, Hans Frings, had invented the acetator. This machine forces air through the wine at a carefully controlled temperature, so it becomes vinegar in 24 hours.

Vinegar is essential in the preparation of mustard, cold sauces and vinaigrette. Balsamic vinegar is increasingly used in cooking reduced sauces and in deglazing. Vinegar is also indispensable for the preparation of pickles, chutneys, marinades and in sweet-and-sour dishes.

With an abundance of fresh herbs available and unflavored wine vinegar relatively inexpensive, preparing your own bottles of flavored vinegars may be done quickly and efficiently, and there’s no danger of failure. These flavored vinegars make wonderful gifts, especially when accompanied with recipes using them.

White wine vinegar is probably the most versatile variety to use because it lends itself to the flavor of single herbs or a combination of several. Red wine vinegar is more appropriate for the most pungent herbs, while cider vinegar should be used with mint, dill and basil.

There are two basic methods for making herbal vinegars, and the ingredients are identical. The following recipes make one quart.

Sun-treated vinegar

? Place fresh herbs of choice (rosemary, thyme, garlic, dill, chives, tarragon, fennel or basil) in a large jar or bottle and pour either white or red wine vinegar over them.

? Set the bottle in a sunny window for two weeks, turning regularly. The heat of the sun will extract the flavor from the herbs.

? If using the vinegar immediately, there is no need to filter it. However, if giving the vinegar for a gift or if you plan to leave it on the shelf awhile, strain out the herbs by pouring the vinegar through a coffee filter or through cheesecloth.

? Place in a clean bottle and add one or two fresh sprigs of the herbs used in the vinegar.

Traditional herb vinegar

? Place the herbs of choice in a large jar or bottle.

? In a saucepan, heat the vinegar to the boiling point, remove from the flame and pour over the herbs. Let steep until cool. The hot vinegar will wilt the herbs so strain and discard.

? Place two or three sprigs of fresh herbs in each bottle and seal.

Berry vinegar

Fruit and berry vinegars are the most expensive on the market, and they are the easiest to prepare. They contain so much juice and don’t need to be peeled or pitted. During the strawberry season, a special bottle of flavored vinegar will add zest and interest to the most mundane salad.

1 to 11/2 pounds ripe berries, washed and drained

1 quart white wine vinegar, preferably 5 percent acidity or higher

Use any berries and prepare:

Blackberries: 1 pound, well-crushed

Blueberries: 1 pound, ground in a blender with about 1/3 cup of vinegar

Cranberries: 1 pound, ground in food processor or blender with about 1/3 cup of the vinegar

Raspberries: 1 to 11/2 pounds, well-crushed

Strawberries: 1 pound, hulled and well-crushed

? In a large glass bowl, prepare berries as indicated.

? Stir in the vinegar.

? Pour into jars for aging. If using more than one jar, be sure to divide the berries and vinegar equally. Cover with plastic wrap secured by rubber bands.

? Allow to age in a cook, dark place for about three to four weeks.

? Strain the mixture through cheesecloth or coffee filter until clear.

? Pour into bottles and seal. Use within 18 months.

From Doris’ Kitchen

I can still recall the first time I ever ate pizza. As a young girl, pizza was called tomato pie and was available only in a few Italian restaurants. Over the years, I have enjoyed experimenting with my own recipes except for the crust. I have had little luck making an authentic pizza crust, often using a store-bought variety. Recently, a friend sent me a great recipe for pizza crust that is easy and almost as delicious as those created by pizza-makers.

Stale-bread pizza

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

2 cups whole milk

15 slices rustic Italian or French bread, ½-inch thick, left out until dry

Salt and pepper to taste

¾ pound mozzarella (buffalo, if available), thinly sliced

¾ pint cherry tomatoes, halved and crushed

3 to 4 tablespoons Parmesan cheese (Parmigiano-Reggiano, if possible)

2 or 3 tablespoons fresh oregano and fresh basil, torn into bits

? Heat oven to 350 degrees.

? Grease a baking sheet with about 2 tablespoons of olive oil.

? Pour milk into bowl and briefly dunk one slice of bread at a time with milk and squeeze out the excess.

? Place bread on baking sheet, sprinkle with salt and pepper, cover with mozzarella slices and top with tomatoes Parmesan cheese and oregano and basil.

? Bake on the bottom of the preheated oven for 15 to 20 minutes, taking care not to burn the bottom.

Note: I have eaten and enjoyed this pizza several times. However, when I want a richer pie, I also spread with my own pasta sauce, sometimes meatless, but often with a marinara sauce made with ground turkey. Also, I flatten the soaked bread to create a thinner crust. I’ll even excuse you if you use a good bottled sauce.

Doris Reynolds is the author of: When Peacocks Were Roasted and Mullet Was Fried” and “Let’s Talk Food.” They are available for sale in the lobby of the Naples Daily News. Also available is a four-part DVD, “A Walk Down Memory Lane with Doris Reynolds.” Email her at [email protected].