So the question is: What’s going to happen to the turkey leftovers?
Of course, they can just be leftovers, heated up or not. And a cold turkey sandwich with a dab of cranberry sauce can be nice at midnight, or anytime over the Thanksgiving weekend.
But what are you going to do with that carcass and the scrappy bits of meat that aren’t sandwich-worthy? Soup comes to mind. A hearty minestrone wouldn’t go amiss, with white beans and chard, perhaps. Or you might rustle up a little turkey risotto.
My desire, though, after a day of overindulgence, is for something a bit lighter, yet still packed with flavor. In response to this impulse, here’s a not-really-authentic but nevertheless quite tasty version of sopa de lima, the restorative and delicious Mexican soup popular in the Yucatan.
It’s usually made with chicken and a particular kind of small local lime, but your leftover turkey parts and whatever kind of lime you can find will make a lovely reasonable facsimile.
Traditional or not, it seems fitting to make this soup with turkey since it is so beloved in Mexico, and has been for a very long time. The ancient Aztecs had already domesticated turkeys when the conquistadors arrived. The European conquerors took breeding stock home, and the turkey-eating habit caught on, well before the Pilgrims headed for Plymouth. In a sense, we really have Mexico to thank for our holiday bird.
Today there are regional turkey dishes throughout Mexico, though turkey in mole sauce is perhaps the most famous. It’s also one of the most complex, an enormous daylong process that involves a lot of grinding, frying and simmering of chilies, seeds and spices. Delicious yes, but not necessarily what I want to do after having just spent 48 hours cooking up a storm. Let’s save that project for a later date.
Here is the plan for today (or Friday, or Saturday, as the case may be): Simmer up a pot of turkey broth enriched with a few vegetables and aromatics, then ladle it forth.
Into the individual bowls go shredded turkey meat, avocado, green onions, cilantro, lightly fried tortilla strips, jalapeños and a generous squeeze of lime. Soup’s on.
TURKEY BROTH
Time: 1 ¾ hours
Yield: About 8 cups
2 pounds leftover turkey carcass and meaty bones, or 2 pounds fresh turkey wings
1 onion, stuck with 2 cloves
1 small carrot, peeled
1 bay leaf
1. Heat oven to 400 degrees. Place the carcass and bones in a baking pan and roast for 10 to 15 minutes, until lightly browned.
2. Transfer to a soup pot, add onion, carrot and bay leaf, and cover with 12 cups cold water. Bring to a boil, then lower heat to a gentle simmer. Cook, uncovered, for about 1 ½ hours, occasionally skimming off foam or fat.
3. Strain though a fine mesh sieve and skim any remaining fat from surface.
TURKEY SOUP WITH LIME AND CHILE
Time: About 1 hour
Yield: 4 to 6 large servings
2 tablespoons vegetable oil
1 cup diced onion
1 cup diced celery
1 cup diced carrot
½ teaspoon cumin seed
½ teaspoon coriander seed
½ teaspoon black peppercorns
6 garlic cloves, roughly chopped
1 cinnamon stick, 2 inches long
Cayenne
2 teaspoons salt, or to taste
8 cups unsalted turkey or chicken broth
Vegetable oil for frying
4 corn tortillas, at least a day old, cut in ½-inch strips
4 to 6 cups cooked turkey meat, shredded
1 or 2 firm-ripe avocados
6 scallions, chopped
2 jalapeños, thinly sliced
1 small bunch cilantro, leaves and tender stems, roughly chopped
Lime wedges
1. Heat vegetable oil in a heavy-bottomed soup pot over medium heat. Add the onion, celery and carrot and let soften, stirring occasionally, for about 5 minutes.
2. Toast the cumin, coriander and peppercorns in a small dry skillet over medium-high heat until fragrant, about 1 minute, then grind in a spice mill or mortar. Add the ground spices to the pot, along with the garlic, cinnamon, a pinch of cayenne and salt.
3. Add the broth and bring to a boil, then reduce to a brisk simmer. Cook for 15 minutes, then taste for salt and adjust. Keep hot, covered, over very low heat.
4. Pour vegetable oil to a depth of ½ inch into a wide skillet over medium-high heat. When the oil is hot and looks wavy, add the tortilla strips and fry until barely colored, 1 to 2 minutes. Remove with tongs and drain on paper towels. Sprinkle lightly with salt. (The oil may be strained and saved for future frying.)
5. In a medium saucepan, heat the shredded turkey meat with a little of the hot soup. Divide the meat among 4 to 6 soup bowls and add a few slices of avocado to each. Ladle about 1 cup soup into each bowl, then garnish with tortilla strips, scallions, jalapeño slices, chopped cilantro and a generous squeeze of lime juice.
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