'How to Build a Better Pie'

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porkGreg Vore

‘How to Build a Better Pie’

It’s been said that simple foods are the most difficult to master. Take, for example, pie. Its familiar, comforting, iconic character comes with countless questions, even for baking hobbyists: How do you make a perfectly flaky crust? What kitchen tools are absolutely essential? How does one thicken a fruit filling? Luckily, just in time for prime summer pie season, comes the chef Millicent Souris’s new cookbook, out today, titled “How to Build a Better Pie.”

While Souris explores the virtues and versatility of the American classic — she favors leaf lard for its transparent, clean finish; believes almost anything can be baked with crust; and loves marrying fruit with fresh herbs — there’s one topic she won’t budge on. “I don’t think you elevate pies by making them look really pretty,” Souris says. “I think you elevate them with the integrity of ingredients.”

Her collection of easy-to-use recipes range from traditional — sweet bourbon pecan and savory chicken pot — to highly original, like her paltry fruit, a pie born from the same notion as its humble beginnings at a time when, Souris says, “few ingredients were stretched to feed more.” During Hurricane Irene last summer, Souris had six nectarines — lush and fragrant, but on the verge of spoiling — sitting on her kitchen counter. Rather than let them go to waste, she created a thrifty, practical recipe to turn the fruit on the fringe into something rich, indulgent — a sum far more enjoyable than its individual parts. “Pie is as humble as you want it to be,” Souris explains. “And the best part is making something out of nothing.”

To celebrate the publication of her cookbook (there will be a party, open to the public, tonight at the Brooklyn Kitchen from 6:30 to 8:30), Souris created a special pie recipe for T: “This is an easy pie that doesn’t require a lot of oven time. The cracker crust tastes like the best shortbread you’ve ever made, and it works wonderfully with any summer fruit. But I’ve got my eye on strawberries at the moment.”

T’s Easy Summer Pie: Strawberry Lemon Curd by Millicent Souris
For a 9? glass pie plate

Saltine Vanilla Wafer Cracker Crust

½ sleeve saltine crackers (16)
16 vanilla wafers
1 stick unsalted butter
¼ cup granulated sugar
1 egg white (save the yolk)
1 tablespoon kosher salt.

Melt butter in a small pan. Pull from heat before it browns and let cool. Toss the crackers and wafers in a food processor and pulse until crumbs begin to form. Gradually add the butter, sugar, salt and egg white. Turn the food processor off, and turn the mixture into the pie plate. With a level, steady hand lightly press the crust into the plate. Evenly tap the crust across the bottom of the plate and up the sides about half an inch. It should be even in thickness. Place crust in refrigerator to rest for at least 20 minutes.

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Once the crust has rested, bake it in the preheated oven for 15 minutes. Pull and cool. While the crust is baking, make the lemon curd.

Lemon Curd
Yields 2 cups

Juice zest of 3 lemons
½ cup unsalted butter (2 sticks)
1 cup granulated sugar
3 large eggs, lightly beaten
pinch of kosher salt.

Fill a medium-size sauce pot about a third way with water and heat. Use a bowl that will fit atop the pot, or nestle down a bit, without touching the water. Cut the butter into small chunks and toss in the bowl with the sugar. Place on the pot so it starts to melt as you zest the lemons, keeping the zest separate to add at the end. Whisk the melting butter and sugar together and add the lemon juice, whisking together well.

Lift your bowl and make sure the water is gently simmering (not boiling). Gently beat the three eggs in a separate bowl. Add the eggs to the bowl over simmering water, whisking everything together. Once the mixture is combined, use a rubber spatula to continuously scrape the bowl around the sides (especially the bottom) so everything cooks evenly. The mixture will thicken in 7 to 10 minutes, and should become more cohesive as it firms up along the edges of the bowl.

Add the lemon zest and salt. Mix. Turn into another bowl and place cling wrap flush across the top of the curd (this prevents a “skin” from developing). Refrigerate for at least 30 minutes.

Strawberry Topping

1 pint strawberries (the smaller the better)
2 tablespoons raw sugar
Zest and juice of one lemon
½ teaspoon salt
3 sprigs of tarragon, or 4 sprigs of mint, or 4 sprigs of chervil
A scraped vanilla pod (optional).

Hull the strawberries, then cut in half lengthwise (if they are bigger than the tip of your fingers). Toss them with the raw sugar, lemon zest, lemon juice and salt. Pick the herb of your choice and chop. Gently bruise the stems and toss the them, the herbs and vanilla pod with the fruit. Let the mixture macerate at room temperature, while everything else cools.

After 30 minutes, fill the crust with the curd. Refrigerate again until the curd settles and tightens.

Cut the pie into 8 slices, soaking the knife into hot water after each slice and wiping it clean. Plate the slices, then take a spoonful of the dressed strawberries to top the pie. Finish with a drizzle of strawberry juice and enjoy.

“How to Build a Better Pie,” $24.99. Go to amazon.com.


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Sweet as Pie

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pieBy Pamela Berger
sweetpeachblog.com

Sweet as Peach Pie

It’s hard not to like a sweet peach. You feel lucky when you find one as it immediately satiates and delights. So when I was trying to find the best peach pie for this month’s cover shoot, master baker, Maggie Sweeney of Cake Hag (cakehag.com) was the only one to call.

Upon my request, Maggie upped the ante with a Brandied Peach Pie recipe that is incredibly scrumptious and perfectly Southern. The crust is distinctly homemade with depth and a wonderful flaky texture. A touch of brandy added to the sweet peaches surprises and soothes.

Maggie suggests using Freestone peaches which are easily found at your local grocery store. Firmer and less juicy, these peaches are excellent for baking. She recommends keeping the dough cold (great tip is to cool your hands in ice before kneading) and not overworking the dough. Less is always more. Maggie also warns against using aluminum pie pans as the heat transfers too quickly and can compromise the overall taste. As Maggie says, “A good glass or ceramic pie pan isn’t expensive. Use one.”

Cake Hag is a whiz with the pie, but as the name implies, Maggie also makes incredible cakes, such as Carolina Carrot, Red Wine Velvet and Jameson’s Irish Whiskey Pudding Cake. Everything is delicious.

pieBrandied Peach Pie

Filling

2 1/2 – 3 pounds ripe peach meat (off the pit, skin removed – amount needed depends on depth of pie plate – deep dish needs requires more peach) in medium thin slices

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1/2 cup light brown sugar

1/3   cup granulated sugar

3 tablespoons corn starch

1 teaspoon good quality ground cinnamon

Zest of 1/2 lemon

Juice of small lemon

1/3 cup brandy

1/4 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

pieCrust

2 1/2 cups all natural, unbleached all-purpose flour + flour for rolling

1 tablespoon granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon kosher or sea salt

1/2 teaspoon baking powder

8 tablespoons unsalted butter in small cubes

4 oz cream cheese in small cubes

2 1/2 teaspoons white vinegar or lemon juice

3 – 6 tablespoons of milk, as needed

350F oven

Equipment

9” Glass pie plate

Pastry cutter or food processor

Plastic wrap

pieInstructions

  • Chill cubed butter and cream cheese in freezer until butter is hard.
  • Sift all dry crust ingredients together in medium bowl.
  • Sift granulated white sugar, cornstarch and cinnamon together (filling ingredients) and set aside.
  • Begin cutting chilled butter and cream cheese into the dry crust ingredients until the mixture consists of crumbled small, pea-sized crumbs. Alternately, pulse ingredients in a food processor until the same consistency is achieved.
  • Add vinegar, followed by milk, in tablespoon increments until mixture just begins to come together.
  • Separate crust mixture into halves – quickly form a rough disk of each halve, working the dough as as little as possible, wrap each disk in plastic wrap and put in freezer to chill.
  • In a large pan over medium heat, melt 2 tablespoons unsalted butter. Add peaches, brown sugar, lemon juice, lemon zest, and salt and cook until peaches just begin to soften.
  • Using a whisk, add the sugar/cornstarch/cinnamon mixture and continue cooking until the liquid begins to come together and bubbles.
  • Add brandy before removing mixture from heat. Thoroughly mix brandy into peach mixture, remove from heat and set aside or place in fridge to cool.
  • Using a smoothly floured surface and a lightly floured rolling pin, begin rolling out the larger disk of chilled dough until it reaches an even thickness throughout and about 12” in diameter – at that point fold crust in half and transfer to pie plate, making sure the crust overlaps the plate edges once the crust has been evenly placed.
  • Roll out the second disk the same way. At this point you can cut strips to lay a lattice top, roll out a full top crust cutting vent holes, or roll out a full top and use a stylized cutter – in all cases making sure to seal the edges of the crusts together and pinch-flute the crust circumference around the pie pan.
  • Combine 1 egg white with 2 tablespoons of whole milk and lightly brush crust with this mixture using a pastry brush. Then sprinkle crust with granulated or sanding sugar.
  • Place pie on a sheet pan in the center of the middle rack of the heated oven.  The pie will take from 35-45 minutes to bake but begin watching the pie at 20 minutes, in 5 minute increments, to make certain the crust isn’t browning too fast before the pie cooks completely. If the crust is browning too quickly lay a sheet of foil gently over crust until the pie has finished baking.

pieTIPS

  • The crust does best when it is kept cool and worked the least – use the freezer as needed to chill or re-chill the crust or crust ingredients.
  • Freestone peaches will be easier to remove flesh from the pit, and yield more meat-per-peach.
  • Remove the skins before slicing peaches by blanching the peaches in boiling water for 15-30 seconds and quickly placing them in ice water.  Skin comes off beautifully and on a freestone peach, the flesh separates quickly from the pit.
  • Smell each peach butt before buying it. If they don’t smell like peach heaven, even if they feel ripe, they won’t have great flavor.
  • Use the best ingredients you can, from butter to flour to peaches to produce a fantastic peach pie.
  • Freezing your own skinned, sliced peaches, just covered in peach juice, will equal a delicious peach pie in the off-season.
  • Pie crust can be fragile and it does sometimes tear. If that happens just quickly patch it without over working the dough. It’s way more important to have a delicious crust then a pretty crust.

To read more about Cake Hag and to see more photos, check out our June print or digital edition.

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Rhubarb Sour Cream Pie

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Rhubarb Sour Cream Pie

Dear Eric: I was told about a rhubarb pie recipe that had sour cream and a crumb topping. Sounded good. I wondered if you had something like that?

Mary Stokes

Dear Mary: It’s a good time of year to be in search of a rhubarb recipe. Whether you grow it yourself or buy it from a farm market or grocery store, it’s in-season now and readily available.

You were in search of a pie recipe enhanced with sour cream and a crumb topping, and you’ll find one below. You can make it with a store-bought or homemade pie crust. If you choose the former, make sure it’s a deep-dish one, as you’ll need its larger size for the generous rhubarb filling.

Speaking of that filling, the process begins by slicing fresh rhubarb and evenly placing it in the pie crust. The sour cream adds a lovely richness to the pie. It gets mixed with egg, sugar, flour and spices, and that mixture is then poured over the rhubarb. The pie now gets its topping, which in this case is oat-based similar to that found on a baked fruit crumble.

When purchasing, opt for very fresh-looking rhubarb with firm stalks that are free of soft or dark areas. Store rhubarb in a plastic bag in the refrigerator for up to five days. Wash the stalks of rhubarb well, and then dry just before needed.

RECIPE

Rhubarb Sour Cream Pie

A rich rhubarb pie accented with sour cream and spiced-oat topping.

Preparation time: 25 to 40 minutes (depends on if you make your pie crust)

Cooking time: 55 minutes

Makes: 8 servings

For the topping

2 Tbsp butter, at room temperature

1/4 cup lightly packed brown sugar

1 Tbsp all-purpose flour

3/4 cup large flake rolled oats

1/4 tsp ground cinnamon

* pinches ground nutmeg and clove

Combine all ingredients in a medium bowl. Set aside until needed.

For the crust and filling

1 deep-dish store-bought or homemade pie crust (see recipe below)

1 large egg

1 cup granulated sugar

1/3 cup packed golden brown sugar

1 (250 mL) tub sour cream

1/3 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 tsp pure vanilla extract

* pinches ground cinnamon, nutmeg and cloves

1 1/4 lbs. fresh rhubarb, tops and stems trimmed, sliced into 1/2-inch pieces (you should get about 4 cups)

Preheat the oven 425°F. Place the egg in a bowl and beat until the yolk and white are well blended. Add the sugars, sour cream, flour, vanilla and spices and whisk until smooth. Place the rhubarb evenly in the pie crust. Pour the egg mixture over the rhubarb. Disperse oat topping over the filling.

Bake the pie 15 minutes. Reduce heat to 350°F and bake 35 to 40 minutes more, until the crust and topping are richly golden. Set pie on a baking rack and cool to room temperature, which will set the filling. Slice and serve the pie topped, if desired, with a dollop of whipped cream, or scoop of vanilla ice cream.

Flaky Pie Dough

This recipe is from my book Everyone Can Cook for Celebrations. The generous amount of shortening, and a touch of butter, makes an ultra-flaky crust. This dough also freezes well, so if you make a lot of pies, consider making a double batch and freezing the unused dough for another time. If tightly wrapped, the dough will keep up to 2 months in the freezer.

Preparation time: 20 minutes, plus chilling time

Cooking time: none

Makes: dough for 1 double-crust pie or 2 single-crust pies

3 cups all-purpose flour

1/2 tsp salt

1 1/4 cups cold vegetable shortening, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1/4 cup cold butter, cut into 1/2-inch cubes

1 large egg, beaten with 1/3 cup ice-cold water

Combine the flour and salt in a bowl. With a pastry cutter or 2 forks (or with the paddle attachment of your stand mixer), cut the shortening and butter into the flour until well blended. Pour the egg/water mixture into the bowl; gently work it until it forms a loose, moist dough that just holds together. Transfer the dough to a lightly floured work surface. With lightly floured hands, shape the dough into a ball. Cut the ball in half. Press each half into a 1/2-inch-thick disk. Wrap and refrigerate each disk for 20 minutes before rolling out. (If only making one single crust pie, freeze the other dough for another time.)

To make a crust, unwrap one of the disks of dough and place on a lightly floured work surface. Flour a rolling pin and roll the dough from the centre out into a round large enough to fit a 10-inch wide pie plate with a 4-cup capacity. Carefully unfold it and gently nestle it into the bottom of the plate. Don’t worry if the crust breaks in places; simple press it back together. Crimp the top edges of the crust to create a finished look and trim off any excess dough from the side of the plate. Refrigerate and firm up the pie crust 20 minutes and it’s ready to fill.

Eric Akis is the author of the bestselling Everyone Can Cook series of cookbooks.

eakis@timescolonist.com

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Cookbook Review 'Pie It Forward' is all about what's inside a sweet crust

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pie

Tina Rupp

Gesine Bullock-Prado, bakery owner, multiple-cookbook author, blogger, and sister of actress Sandra Bullock, offers pastry recipes and tips in “Pie it Forward.’’

I like baking, and I generally like baking books even when they’re fussy. So I took an instant shine to the new pie book by Gesine Bullock-Prado (bakery owner, multiple-cookbook author, blogger, and ex-Hollywooder; she’s Sandra Bullock’s sister). “Pie It Forward” is a loose wordplay on “pay it forward,” being grateful for something good, and paying it forward to others. The book has gorgeous photography, and there are cute little sidebars offering advice: say, how to salvage overwhipped cream. I was half in love with it before I ever started a recipe.

Then I took it into the kitchen.

Our first foray, a Key lime mascarpone cream pie, is a smash. The tart dough comes together simply, thanks to condensed milk and a food processor, and the flavors are bright and creamy. We smile and dig in, not knowing that this effortless experience is unique. The rest of the testing, it turns out, will be plagued by omissions and distortions, ranging from trivial to monumental.

Continue reading below

“Not-so-traditional” apple pie calls for an express puff pastry and 13 apples, which seems like a lot. Still, I follow the recipe, down to the absorbent “Crust Dust” (a 50-50 mix of flour and sugar for absorbing extra liquid in fruit pies). The puff pastry more or less does its job, but the apples run and flood the pie, overwhelming the Crust Dust in a mudslide.

A more traditional puff pastry, in a pear-frangipane pithivier, is made with some nontraditional short cuts (a mixer), but the rise and lamination are both good. However, Bullock-Prado forgets to tell you to egg-wash the finished product before sliding it in the oven. If you think of doing it yourself, you’ll get a confection that looks just like the picture. If not, you won’t (I tried both ways).

A bruleed maple custard tart calls for ½ cup sugar to coat a tiny 8-inch tart. Skeptical, I use only ¼ cup, and still end up with a layer of brulee so thick it cannot be penetrated. In the serving, the thick caramel shards crush the custard underneath.

I persevere. Chocolate orange souffle tartlets start with a disastrous, wet chocolate-cookie tart dough using almost ?
cup liquid and directions to “add the liquid and pulse till just combined.” I throw out the soggy, unrollable results and start again, using half the liquid. The second dough is rollable but fragile, and, channeling a Zen monk as the minutes tick by, I eventually contrive to fit it into the tartlet rings. As for the filling, there is twice as much as needed, so I improvise and make it into a separate souffle.

For a savory change of pace, I try a pork pie recipe, which is like a culinary Murphy’s law: everything that can go wrong, does. Fussy instructions for pre-baking puff pastry in muffin tins are impossible to execute. One item in the ingredients list is never called for in the recipe, and one item that isn’t listed turns up in the instructions. The timing is off, and so are the yields (too little pastry, way too much filling). I make it work, but it takes some MacGyvering.

My most tragic encounter with “Pie It Forward” is not actually the book’s fault. It involves a strawberry-rhubarb lattice crumble pie calling for so much butter and sugar I think, initially, the mistake is mine. Still, I slog on, through 4½ cups of flour, 4½ sticks of butter, 2 cups of sugar, and the fact that the huge pile of crumble topping is nowhere to be seen in the pie’s final photograph.

It all goes into a 9-inch pie pan which, 50 minutes later, I attempt to remove to a cooling rack. With a wobble and a whoosh, the entire 4-pound pie slides to the floor, landing facedown. When I recover sufficiently to start scraping it up, I notice — with a sense of insult compounding injury — that the now highly visible interior is still sloppy and underdone. Would it have set up had the pie been given its proper cooling time? Possibly. We’ll never know.

In baking, the devil is in the details (except for when it’s lying in an 8-foot splatter at your feet). The funny thing is, this tremendously appealing book is filled with detail, wit, and good advice. But rather like that metal cooling rack I was aiming for, sometimes it’s just not there when you need it.


Try BostonGlobe.com today and get two weeks FREE.T. Susan Chang can be reached at admin@tsusanchang.com.

Because of a reviewer’s error, an earlier reference to the puff pastry indicates that the author says to make it in a mixer or food processor. The dough is made in a mixer.

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Pizza Hut's Cheeseburger-Stuffed Crust Pie Looks Different In Real Life

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2012-04-24-crowncrustcarnivalthumb.jpg

Pizza Hut’s Cheeseburger-Stuffed Crust Pie Looks Different In Real Life

When we first heard about Pizza Hut’s new pizza with crusts made out of cheeseburgers last month — alas, it’s only being offered in the Middle East — we were curious and a bit grossed out.

Reports of fearless diners who have ordered the delicacy are now beginning to crop up, but we couldn’t help but notice some discrepancies in these pies’ appearances.

The one sampled last month by Serious Eats writer Arva Ahmed looks normal enough, and bears a respectable resemblance to the pizza in the advertisement. It’s from a Pizza Hut branch in Dubai.

pizza hut
Photo by Arva Ahmed at Serious Eats.

Unfortunately, it didn’t impress in the flavor department. Writes Ahmed, “If I took the antonym of ‘delicious,’ strapped it onto a rocket and blasted it twenty thousand light years away, I may begin to get close to my experience with the burger patties.”

College Humor also tried out the pie, which they achieved by sending their correspondent, Jon Gabrus, all the way from New York City to Dubai. The pizza looks pretty similar to the one Serious Eats tried, though Gabrus didn’t think it looked much like the ad.

“…As you can expect, the pizza looked nothing like the pizza I saw in the commercial,” he wrote. “It was smaller, thinner, and all around greyer.”

pizza hut cheeseburger
Photo by Jon Gabrus at College Humor.

But an image uploaded by a Reddit user looks strikingly different. The post’s title says it all: “I don’t think this is what I ordered.” According to the author’s comments, it’s from a Pizza Hut in Saudi Arabia.

pizza hut burger
Photo by Reddit user Pinkeller.

Sure, we know that food styling is all the rage these days — experts use a variety of tools to make a dish look more appetizing, even if that sometimes means rendering it inedible. It’s not unheard of for stylists to swap in motor oil for syrups that doesn’t photograph well, or add brown shoe polish to raw meat.

Could that be what’s going on with Pizza Hut’s cheeseburger pizza? But even if that’s true, we still don’t know what’s to blame for the differences between the above pies. Perhaps it’s time to invest in some more quality control measures.


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Does chief pie taster David have the best job in Wales?

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pie

Does chief pie taster David have the best job in Wales?

WHEN it comes to job satisfaction, David Jackson really takes the pie.

The 40-year-old ex-chef and food science graduate has an unusual – but some would say vital – role in everyday Welsh life.

While many of his friends are confined to the office from nine ’til five, David can normally be found travelling the length and breadth of the country – tasting pies.

To give him his proper title, David is chief pieologist for Caerphilly-based food and pie suppliers Peter’s.

You’re probably aware that we are the pastry pioneers with ‘game changers’ like our hit Premier Pepperoni Pizza slice, Premier Cheesy Bean slice or Premier Chicken Fajita slice with “Discovery” Seasonings – boy, do they taste good!

You may have heard (or tasted) our simply delightful new range of premium pies, pasties, rolls and slices. These are deliciously deep filled and have a ‘perfect crunch’ puff pastry lid with a melt in the mouth experience, and the best deep fillings in our 40-year history. We like to call them our ‘Premier’ range.

However, there is another equally impressive side to Peter’s … that involves some 900 products! From pie and pastries to bacon and beans, from chips and peas to meats and cheese, from flap jacks and cookies to desserts and drinks, we supply goods fresh as a daisy to fast food outlets, fish bars, restaurants, cafes, sandwich shops, independent retailers, schools, hospitals and hotels throughout the country.

A typical working day can see David conduct taste panels at breakfast and lunch with as many as eight or a dozen pies on offer.

It means buying lunch has now become a dim and distant memory.

And such is the value of his work that David’s bosses are now looking into insuring his tongue and taste buds for a massive five-figure sum.

David, from Rogerstone, Newport, said: “It’s a typical comment when you go away on holiday.

“People say: ‘What do you do?’

“When I say I’m a pieologist it kind of stops them in their tracks and it gets a giggle.

“It’s a pretty rare role. You have great fun with it and meet interesting people and customers.

“At the end of the day, it’s a hoot and you can’t take it too seriously when your job is to develop the next great pie.”

David’s job sees him work with food retailers to watch food trends, work on recipe development, plan products – and, well, eat.

And despite his pie-heavy diet David says it hasn’t had too adverse an effect on his waistline over the years.

“Obviously with the great job which I have you have the great opportunity to try a different trouser size every year,” he said.

“We have a fairly fixed diet. And it’s a balanced diet because you have a pie in each hand!

“I have actually lost weight during the last two years but you do have to be careful with your diet.

“Normally we don’t swallow a lot of what we are tasting. We are trained to professionally taste rather like the wine tasters.

“Though every once in a while, yes I will admit, you eat the whole product.”

The work he and his colleagues do has reportedly brought in millions of pounds of extra business over the last few years.

It means there is a high price on David’s mouth and his bosses are now looking to insure his tongue and taste buds, though premiums run above £10,000.

David said: “Because we have had such great success in recent years, and brought in £20m worth of business from product development, the business investigated the potential for insuring my taste buds and tongue.

“I understand the costs around it are not all that terrific and the premiums are rather steep and going into five figures.”

Recently, David has been devouring a beef and coca-cola pie as well as thai green and red chicken pies, which are all in development.

He said: “For more than 30 years we have had a pie made from steak and kidney and chicken and mushroom. But we always have to keep an eye on the market.

“The really interesting part of the job is looking at trends in food.

“There’s a big trend for food with spiciness and a lot of British, patriotic products with the Olympics and Diamond Jubilee this year.

“Just last week we were tasting a coca cola and beef pie.

“It had a coca cola-based sauce with prime British steak and a little hint of chilli just at the back.

“My taste buds have taken a bit of a battering.”

Alongside pies, David’s other big passion is racing cars which he has done recently with some success in his Caterham 7 sports car at the Castle Combe circuit.

“I have had a few wins so the pies aren’t slowing me down too much,” he said.

“I have always had an interest in cars since I was three-years-old and I have been fortunate enough to fulfil my dream and buy a Caterham.”

And asked if there was any job he would swap for his own, there was only one thing David could possibly think of.

“Yeah, beer tasting at Brains,” he said.

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Diamond Jubilee lamprey pie custom saved by Canada

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lamprey

Diamond Jubilee lamprey pie custom saved by Canada

lampreyCanada will export lamprey from the Great Lakes to England to help maintain a centuries-old tradition of baking them into pies for the Diamond Jubilee. (Rick Bowmer/Associated Press)A shortage of lamprey in western England is threatening a royal tradition in the city of Gloucester, and in a Diamond Jubilee year, no less.

For centuries, bakers in Gloucester have used local lamprey to bake pies for the royal family to mark jubilees, coronations and other monarchical milestones, the Telegraph reported Monday.

But the eel-like fish – considered by many a delicacy – is now endangered due to water pollution in Gloucester’s River Severn, according to Endangered Species International.

As a result, Gloucester will have to turn to Canadian lamprey, drawn from the Great Lakes, to make their special pies, the Telegraph reported.

The monarchy’s fondness for lamprey pie dates back to at least the 12th century, according to Whatscooking.net, a food website. The City of Gloucester presented the royal family with a specially baked pie every year for Christmas, a costly tradition that was suspended between the mid-19th century and 1953, when Elizabeth was crowned queen.

Marc Gaden, the communications director of the Great Lakes Fishery Commission, will present the Canadian lamprey to Gloucester on May 4th.

Lamprey have been “extremely destructive” since they invaded the Great Lakes in the early 1900s, the commission says.

Using a sucking disk and sharp teeth, they attach themselves to host fish and feed on their body fluids, often killing them.

Their aggressive feeding behaviour is responsible for the collapse of fish species, including lake trout, that once were the foundation of the Great Lakes fishery, the commission says.

We want to hear about your pie traditions. Do you have a special or traditional pie recipe that you’d bake up for the Queen to celebrate her Diamond Jubilee? Share it with us in the comment field below, or send it via email to yournews@cbc.ca. We’ll compile your recipes into a special Diamond Jubilee pie entry to feature in May.


(This survey is not scientific. Results are based on readers’ responses.)


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JUST DESSERTS

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desserts

JUST DESSERTS

It could be said that dessert is the mark of a truly civilized society. As our ancestors gathered round the fire at the end of a hard day’s hunting, there is one thought we can be certain did not cross their minds: ‘now, are we having cheesecake or pavlova for dessert?’ Desserts are rarely eaten to satisfy hunger, but to provide a sweet finish, a closing fanfare to a meal. They are meant for pleasure, not sustenance.

Antonin Caréme, the artistic French chef who served for princes, kings and emperors, including the future King George IV and Tsar Alexander I, is said to have remarked that there were five fine arts, one of which was architecture, and that the main branch of architecture was confectionery. Many of his creations were based on ideas he copied from architectural drawings.

Man has been eating luxurious sweet food for a long time. In Asia thousands of years ago, cane syrup was being used as a sweetener and in Europe, fruit and honey were used. Sugar is the backbone of desserts and its increasing availability as a more refined sugar and a less expensive product has given rise to the invention of a million recipes.

Sugar, like spices, reached the Western world via the Arab trade routes and, when it first appeared, was available only in tiny quantities and used medicinally. Known as white gold, it was prohibitively expensive. During the next few centuries, the rich used sugar, like spices, indiscriminately as a sign of wealth, sprinkled on everything they ate. It wasn’t until the 15th century that the Italians went back to Arabic traditions of using sugar in a select few dishes.

The rich may have been enjoying sweet food for hundreds of years but, in the Western world, the idea of dessert as a separate course is relatively modern. Sweet dishes were originally served on the banqueting table with the savoury: a typical example of one ‘course’ might be veal, tongue, chicken, blancmange, vol-au-vent, a cake and a fish. Many desserts actually evolved from savoury dishes to sweet. For example, one of the oldest known desserts is blancmange, which started life as a dish of pounded chicken breasts and almonds.

Pies often included both sweet (fruit) and savoury (meat) fillings together. Jelly began as a savoury decorative dish at banquets—gelatine boiled from animal bones and moulded creatively would be the centrepiece of the table, displaying the chef’s great talents and control of his raw ingredients.

This gelatine then began to be sweetened. When the Victorians invented the copper jelly mould the idea took off with a vengeance, leading to a frenzy of moulded blancmanges, creams and cakes (often named simply ‘shapes’). Powdered gelatine was created in the 1840s but did not really become popular until much later with the advent of ice boxes and home refrigeration.

The sweet pudding has only existed for the last couple of centuries—before that the pudding was a savoury mixture of grain and dried fruit stuffed into animal guts and boiled in the same broth as the meat and vegetables. (Fortunately for our squeamish modern palates, today’s only reminder of this is the beef suet in a traditional Christmas plum pudding.) This manner of cooking, using nothing but an open hearth, was available to all, while cakes and other desserts requiring ovens were still only enjoyed by the rich. The invention of the pudding cloth in the 17th century coincided with an increased importation of dried fruit to England and a drop in the price of sugar, making it available to the not-so-rich. Hence the sweet pudding was born.

A well-stocked table, with a multitude of dishes set out, had always been a graphic way of displaying wealth, but in the 16th century the banqueting tables began to be cleared for dessert. The word itself derives from the French ‘desssewie’, the cleared or de-served table. Plates were removed and the table swept clear of crumbs. Sometimes the guests would retire to another room (or another building!) for dessert.

In Victorian England the tradition arose of removing the tablecloth before serving dessert. Although there are obviously many old and traditional desserts, the last couple of centuries has seen a plethora of newer recipes. The development of transportation, the invention of refrigeration, and the exploration of the world which transplanted hundreds of different types of fruit from one place to the next and introduced new ingredients such as chocolate, spices and sugar to the Western world has created a myriad of wonderful recipes.

Ice cream, now taken entirely for granted for desserts, was, as a commercially available product, the direct result of the invention of refrigeration techniques. Cold food was originally thought to be poisonous or dangerous to eat and was a novelty served at special occasions and eaten with some bravado. Food and drinks were usually taken tepid (hot drinks such as tea and coffee were equally frowned upon when they first arrived on the scene). Ice, until the first ice-making machines appeared in the 1860s, was a natural commodity that had to be gathered, transported and stored in insulated ice houses.

The advent of ice boxes changed the face of what could be stored at home. It was also now possible to set jelly and freeze ice cream at home. All over the world different cultures have their own versions of desserts and it is surprising how similar they can be. Rice puddings come in many forms, from hot creamy and oven baked in the West to sticky black varieties in the East.

Puddings and desserts made with bread and noodles are common in many cuisines and ice creams are fairly universal, from the gelati of Italy to the kulfi of India. Migrants from Europe who settled in America and Australia took with them the desserts from their own cultures as well as inventing new ones with ingredients now available. Many countries took on their own national desserts; Pavlova is as Australian as Ned Kelly, and ice cream became a national symbol in America—it was deemed an essential foodstuff and indispensable to the morale of the army. (Ironically, in’1942 ice cream was banned as part of the war effort in Britain where it was named as a “luxury’ item.)

The British themselves are associated with steamed and baked puddings as desserts. As well as the favouritism of nationality, desserts fall in and out of fashion: jell-0 made its all-encompassing appearance in the 40s and 50s, baked alaska and black forest gateaux wowed the 70s, tiramisu was the dessert of the 80s, and the 90s gave us sticky date pudding and the ubiquitous crème brûlée. Who knows what the new millennium holds… What do you think will be the desserts of the first decade of 2000?


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Blueberries - Two pies for you to bake

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Blueberry-Orange Pie

Blueberries – Two pies for you to bake

Blueberries are perennial flowering plants of the genus Vaccinium (a genus which also includes cranberries and bilberries), with indigo-colored berries. Species in the section Cyanococcus are the most common fruits sold as “blueberries” and are native to North America (commercially cultivated highbush blueberries were not introduced into Europe until the 1930s).

Blueberries are sold fresh or processed as individually quick frozen (IQF) fruit, purée, juice, or dried or infused berries, which in turn may be used in a variety of consumer goods, such as jellies, jams, blueberry pies, muffins, snack foods, and cereals.

Blueberry jam is made from blueberries, sugar, water, and fruit pectin. Blueberry wine is made from the flesh and skin of the berry, which is fermented and then matured; usually the lowbush variety is used. Blueberries have a diverse range of micronutrients, with notably high levels (relative to respective Dietary Reference Intakes) of the essential dietary mineral manganese, vitamin B6, vitamin C, vitamin K and dietary fiber (table).[24] One serving provides a relatively low glycemic load score of 4 out of 100 per day.

Blueberry-Orange Pie
10 servings

2-1/2 cups of fresh blueberries (see note)
1 tablespoon cornstarch
1 1/2 teaspoons of lemon juice
1/8 cup of water
3/4 cup sugar
3 tablespoons cornstarch
2 tablespoons orange juice concentrate
1/2 cup orange juice
Orange pastry crust or single crust for 9 pie, baked
Orange Pastry Crust:
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
1 tablespoon sugar
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup butter-flavored shortening
1 tablespoon orange juice
2 tablespoons cold water

1. For the fruit, on medium low, cook 2 1/2 cups of fresh blueberries, 1 tablespoon of corn starch, 1 1/2 teaspoons of lemon juice and 1/8 cup of water until thick and clear. Let cool completely.
2. Stir together sugar and cornstarch in heavy-bottomed 3-quart saucepan. Stir in orange juice concentrate, orange juice and half of the blueberries. Cook and stir over medium-high heat until mixture is thickened, translucent and just come to a boil, 7-10 minutes. Remove from heat and gently fold in remaining blueberries.
3. Mound filling into baked pastry shell. Refrigerate at least one hour before serving. Can be made one day ahead.
How to make the Orange Pastry Crust
Combine first four ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir to blend. Using pastry blender or two knives, cut shortening into flour mixture until all resembles coarse meal. Combine orange juice with cold water. Add juice/water by tablespoons mixing gently with a fork just until dough begins to hold together in clumps. If necessary, extra tablespoon water may be added. Gather dough and shape into a ball.

Pre-heat oven to 375 degrees. On lightly floured wax paper, with lightly floured rolling pin, roll dough to about 1/8 thick, in big enough circle to overhang pie plate by about 1 1/2 inches. (A good measure is turning pie plate upside down onto pastry.) Ease into pie plate, being careful not to stretch dough. Prick bottom and sides. Bake for 15 minutes or until golden brown. Cool on wire rack.
Recipe adapted from Northwest Blueberries.
Recipe note: Substitute 2 cans blueberries, drained, for the cooked fresh fruit.

Blueberry Raspberry Deep-Dish Pie

Blueberry Raspberry Deep-Dish Pie
Makes 8 to 12 servings.

1 cup yellow cornmeal
1 cup plus 3 tablespoons flour
3 tablespoons plus 3/4 cup sugar
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
3 tablespoons butter
1/2 cup milk
3 (6-ounce) packages of blueberries, rinsed and drained
2 (6-ounce) packages of raspberries, rinsed and drained
3 tablespoons flour
1 teaspoon grated lemon zest

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. In a large bowl, stir together the cornmeal, 1 cup flour, 3 tablespoons sugar, baking powder and salt. Cut in butter with pastry blender or two knives until the mixture reaches the consistency of small peas. Add milk, and stir lightly until just combined. Gather into large ball. Divide ball in half. Pat each half into flat circle, wrap in plastic and chill.

On lightly floured surface with a lightly floured rolling pin, gently roll out dough to a 12-inch circle. Gently fit into 9-inch-deep pie pan. Roll out remaining dough for top crust and set aside.

In a large bowl, gently toss blueberries and raspberries together with 3/4 cup sugar, 3 tablespoons flour and lemon zest. Turn into prepared pie crust bottom. Brush rim of bottom crust lightly with water. Put pie crust top in place and press to seal rim. Turn edges under and crimp. Cut a few slashes in top crust. Place in preheated oven and bake until golden brown and bubbly, about 50 minutes to an hour. Let cool on rack. Serve warm or cold.


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The year of the pie

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The year of the pie

This is the year of the pie, if we are to believe the food trend forecasters, so look for lots of new pie cookbooks. One I’m enjoying now is “Pie it Forward” by Gesine Bullock-Prado (Stewart, Tabori Chang, $29.95). There are a lot of imaginative new recipes – even pie pops for those so inclined – and fascinating twists.

I tried the blueberry brown butter tart and thought the accent of the charred butter flavor was perfect against the sweet berries. Another twist is the recipe here, a silky baked Key lime pie that is topped with mascarpone cream, adding yet another dimension to the sweet-tangy balance that makes us love Key lime pie so much.

The author also takes lots of the fear factor out of making pastry while providing numerous tips and covering not only sweet but savory pies, tarts, tortes and galettes.

KEY LIME MASCARPONE CREAM PIE

For the crust:

1 cup all-purpose flour

1/2 cup cornstarch

1/4 cup sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 cup plus 2 ounces cold unsalted butter

1/2 egg

1 1/2 tablespoons sweetened condensed milk

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract or paste

For the pie:

1/2 cup plus 3 tablespoons Key lime juice, divided

1 (14-ounce) can sweetened condensed milk

4 egg yolks

Pinch of salt

1/4 cup mascarpone cheese

1 cup heavy cream

1/4 cup confectioners’ sugar

To make crust: In a food processor, pulse together the flour, cornstarch, sugar and salt. Add the butter and pulse until the mixture resembles coarse cornmeal.

In a small bowl, whisk the egg, condensed milk and vanilla. Slowly add to the flour mixture while pulsing; continue until the dough just begins to come together.

Turn the dough out onto a lightly floured surface. Gently knead it until the dry ingredients are fully integrated and the dough holds together, being careful not to overwork it. Form into a disk, wrap in plastic and refrigerate at least 30 minutes before rolling out to form a single pie crust.

To make filling: Heat oven to 350 degrees. Line an 8-inch tart pan with the dough, then freeze for 20 minutes. Line the crust with parchment paper, fill it with pie weights or dried beans, and bake for 20 minutes. Remove the weights and lining, then bake the crust for 15 minutes more, or until it no longer has a raw dough sheen.

For the filling, whisk together 1/2 cup of the Key lime juice with the condensed milk, egg yolks and salt. Pour mixture into the crust and bake 20 to 25 minutes, until filling is set. Allow it to cool completely.

With an electric mixer fitted with whisk attachment, beat the mascarpone, cream, confectioners’ sugar and remaining Key lime juice until the cream holds stiff peaks. Transfer the cream to a pastry bag fitted with a decorative tip and pipe it onto the cooled pie. Makes 8 servings.

Per serving: 673 calories (53 percent from fat), 40.5 g fat (24.3 g saturated, 10.5 g monounsaturated), 224 mg cholesterol, 10.3 g protein, 69.7 g carbohydrates, 0.5 g fiber, 263 mg sodium.

Looking for new inspiration for Passover? Rosa Mexicano brought in celebrity chef Jonathan Waxman to design a holiday menu that is being served chain-wide through April 13.

Waxman combined traditional Passover ingredients and recipes from his own Jewish heritage with current culinary trends to create the menu, which includes the Beef Brisket Tacos recipe adapted here. (The chef needs to brush up on his dietary laws, as his original called for corn tortillas.)

PULLED BEEF BRISKET TACOS

16 ounces leftover brisket

1 cup leftover cooking liquid from brisket (or beef or chicken stock)

2 cup peeled and diced carrots

1 onion, peeled and sliced into 1/4 inch rounds

1 cup julienned jicama

1 habanero chile, stemmed, seeded and minced

1/2 cup pomegranate seeds

Juice of 1 lemon

Juice of 1 orange

1/4 cup olive oil

Sea salt to taste

16 sprigs cilantro

16 (4-inch) matzo tortillas (see note below)

Slice brisket while cold into thin strips; keep cold.

In a sauce pan heat leftover sauce. Add carrots and cook 5 minutes. Heat a cast-iron skillet over medium high, add the onions with no fat and char gently until wilted. Add onions to sauce.

Add minced habanero. Cook for 20 minutes. Sauce should be quite reduced; if not, cook a bit more. Keep warm.

In a bowl toss the jicama, pomegranate seeds, citrus juices, 2 tablespoons of the olive oil and salt. Add remaining oil to cast-iron skillet, and when hot, sear the brisket strips in batches. Add the strips to sauce.

Heat the tortillas, spoon in the carrot, onion brisket mixture, and top with jicama-citrus. Garnish with cilantro. Makes 4 servings.

Note: For matzo tortillas, New York chef Julian Medina developed this Passover-appropriate recipe for Edible Manhattan magazine: Mix 2 cups fine matzo meal, 1 teaspoon salt, 1 cup warm water and 1 tablespoon olive oil to make a soft dough. Form into 12 balls. One at a time, place balls under plastic wrap and flatten with a rolling pin. Cook tortillas in a non-stick skillet over medium heat for about 30 seconds per side, until a few brown spots appear. Makes 12.

Per serving: 716 calories (48 percent from fat), 38 g fat (10 g saturated, 21 g monounsaturated), 111 mg cholesterol, 30.2 g protein, 62.9 g carbohydrates, 6.5 g fiber, 2,084 mg sodium.

Q: I used to have a recipe I used for almost every holiday because it was so easy to put together on Easter or Christmas before church. It may have been from a Pillsbury crescent roll ad or from the Bake-Off. It was made like a pizza, but with scrambled eggs and breakfast toppings. Can you help?

-Joanne Watson

A: This is a fun recipe, and I can see why it would appeal for Easter mornings. You can certainly fine tune it to your family’s taste. For example, I substituted Monterey jack for the Cheddar, added hot chiles and a tomatillo salsa and sprinkle chopped cilantro on top.

You can layer on sliced tomatoes, spinach or arugula leaves, artichoke hearts or olives. Skip the sausage, or substitute ham. I also would suggest, when time is short, putting the whole pizza together and baking the night before, then just reheating for 10 minutes to serve.

BREAKFAST PIE PIZZA

1 pound bulk-style sausage

1 (8-count) package crescent refrigerated rolls

1 cup frozen hash brown potatoes, thawed

1 cup shredded Cheddar cheese

5 eggs

1/2 cup milk

Salt and pepper to taste

Sliced mushrooms, bell peppers, tomatoes as desired (optional)

2 tablespoons grated Parmesan cheese Heat oven to 375 degrees. Brown the sausage until cooked through. Drain thoroughly.

Separate crescent dough into 8 triangles. Place on an ungreased 12-inch pizza pan with points toward the center. Press seams together on bottom and up sides to make a crust. Sprinkle with potatoes. Spoon sausage over crust and top with cheese.

In a bowl, whisk the eggs with the milk and salt and pepper. Pour into crust. Add vegetables as desired, arranging in single layer. Top with Parmesan. Bake 25 to 30 minutes, until eggs are set and crust is lightly browned. Makes 8 servings.

Per serving: 435 calories (64 percent from fat), 30.4 g fat (11.6 g saturated, 11.4 g monounsaturated), 229 mg cholesterol, 19.1 g protein, 18.7 g carbohydrates, 0.4 g fiber, 1,040 mg sodium.

SLEUTH’S CORNER

Q: I grew up in Miami and a favorite restaurant of mine was the Red Diamond, formerly at 117 LeJeune Rd. Their slogan, “The best Italian- American food in town,” was accurate. I still miss their marinara sauce. Would anyone have the recipe?

-Susan Abraham

For help finding products for Passover, the Orthodox Union offers an app for iPad, iPhone and Android with search-engine access to OU kosher products and a question hotline. If you don’t have a smartphone, you can ask questions at www.oukosher.org

(Send questions and responses to LindaCiceroCooks@aol.com or Food, 1 Herald Plaza, Miami, FL 33132. Personal replies are not possible.)

Bread Making with Bill & Sheila


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