Wonderful Walnuts – The King of Pickles
The pickled walnut is the epitome of the sentiment ‘deferred gratification’. With the hard work and time required to pickle walnuts, it is a real shame that they feature so infrequently in recipes. They are known as the ‘King of Pickles’ yet their profile sadly does not reflect their status as the monarch of preserves, remaining elusive in recipes and at the dinner table.
My first experience of a pickled walnut was on a cold, wintry evening, many years ago. My parents had frivolously bought a jar as a special festive treat. On sampling its unique and robust flavours I immediately smuggled one into a paper napkin, (carefully evading the watchful eye of my parents), to take around later to my best friend’s house for her to share in its delights. I knew I would not be able to describe its taste or texture adequately, so a minor theft from the dinner table was in order! I was just a child at the time, yet as an adult, a pickled walnut is still very much a luxury, something to savour and devour with relish!
Pickled walnuts hold the grand title of the ‘King of Pickles’ and for very good reason. They are unusual, bite-sized and packed full of flavour and substance. Thought of as traditionally British, references to the pickled walnut actually date back as far as 8,000 years ago, with the original recipe thought to derive from Persia. It was in the 1800s however that the pickled walnut was well and truly adopted as a British tradition, a love affair that for many people continues with vigour today, especially around the festive season.
Loved or loathed
lt is often believed that the pickled walnut falls into two categories — to be loved or loathed, as they have a very distinctive taste. Yet there is a large fraction of the population who are completely un-initiated to the joys of this delicacy.
Walnut orchard owner, Tom Norbury of Norbury Norrest Farm and Cider Company agrees. “Many people don’t know what they are and have never tried them. They think you only pickle the nut itself, they don’t realise you do the whole thing, including the shell.”
Tom owns a six-acre walnut orchard in the heart of the Malvern countryside. His orchard was established in the late 1940s and makes up just a small part of his farm. He sells his pickled walnuts at local farmers’ markets and some through postal orders. “Some people are just desperate to get hold of traditional pickled walnuts throughout the year. The postage can cost more than the walnuts, but they don’t seem to mind!”
Long process
Pickled walnuts are actually the final product of a fairly long-winded process of picking, soaking, re-soaking, drying, preserving and finally eating and enjoying! Walnuts are best picked from the tree before Saint Swithin’s day on July l5th, before the shell has fully hardened. They are referred to as ’green walnuts’ at this stage. The shell should not be too well established, which can be checked by pricking the end of the walnut.
There should be no obstruction and a clear liquid should emerge from the nut. So potent is the staining power of this liquid that if ; precautions are not taken it can stain skin for up to a week! The green walnuts are then soaked in a brine liquid for two weeks and then dried out, where they turn black and are then ready for pickling. Traditional pickling solutions have a savoury flavour with a slightly sour overtone, while sweeter versions made with sugar and spices, were made popular during Elizabethan times.
A great deal of commitment goes into growing walnuts, as the walnut tree itself can be somewhat temperamental in our current British climate. They do not respond well to cold snaps or wet weather, as this can affect the quantity and quality of the yield. There are also other obstacles to overcome, as Tom Norbury knows from first-hand experience. “It can be a race against time to pick the nuts, not only before the shells harden, but also before squirrels and crows grab the lot!”
It is clear that from tree to table, the pickled walnut is only created through perseverance and dedication — testament to the tastiness of the end product!
Many supermarkets now stock pickled walnuts, especially around the festive period. lf you would like to try pickling walnuts yourself, however, look out for green walnuts at farmers’ markets during the spring. Alternatively, friends, neighbours, local farmers or smallholders may have walnut trees in their gardens or on their land, yet do not use the nuts themselves. Word of mouth can often be the best way of discovering a source of green walnuts to try pickling them at home.
Perfect companions
Traditionally a Christmas treat, pickled walnuts are perfect partners with strong cheeses and roast meats, or simply enjoyed on their own. However for the pickled walnut novice it is recommended to just try a little, as they are definitely an acquired taste, and in my opinion, certainly not to be wasted!
Sadly, recipes featuring pickled walnuts are not that common. A few pickled walnuts left over from Christmas can bob about at the bottom of the jar well into the New Year, for want of a little consideration. Added to a casserole, pie or quiche as suggested in the following recipes, the results can be sublime. They provide a sweet, unusual kick to traditional recipes and help to create some really special dishes to try in the New Year.
Pickled walnut and stilton quiche
Serves 4
300g (10 1/2 oz) shortcrust pastry
1 small leek, finely chopped
Butter, a small knob for frying
2 eggs, beaten
4 pickled walnuts, quartered
100g (3 1/2 oz) Stilton
175g (6oz) cream cheese
150ml (1/2 pt) single cream
Pepper to season
METHOD
Preheat oven to 200°C (400°F, gas 6). Line and grease a quiche or tart baking tin. Flour a clean surface and roll out the pastry. Line the tart tin with the pastry. Cover the base of the pastry with baking beans or rice. Bake for 10 minutes. This is known as ‘baking blind’. When the pastry is just beginning to set in shape, remove the baking beans or rice.
Heat the butter in a frying pan and fry the leek for about five minutes, until soft. Add the cream to the beaten eggs in a bowl. Break up the Stilton and add to the cream and egg mixture, along with the cream cheese. Mix together and season with pepper.
Add the leeks to the mixture and then pour about half into the pastry case. Evenly distribute the walnut quarters in the pastry case and then pour over the remaining mixture. Cook for around 30 minutes. When the quiche is set and the pastry is golden, remove from the oven and leave to cool slightly. Carefully turn out from the tin.
This quiche is equally deliciously served hot or cold. Serve with salad and crusty bread for a substantial lunch or as an unusual addition to a buffet or party menu.
Original article by Rebecca Banks
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