Puddings – the best of British

Honey would have been the earliest sweetener in the British diet and it was still used long after sugar — from tropical sugar cane — was introduced. For sugar was originally very expensive and could only be afforded by the rich. Brought in by the spice ships from the fourteenth century onwards, it was considered to be as precious as spices. Like spices, sugar was used in almost every kind of cooking — not just sweet pottages of almond milk, dried fruit and eggs (which had once contained honey), but in meat, poultry and fish dishes too. It was actually used as a kind of spice, possibly to counteract the saltiness of preserved meat or fish, or the acidity of the vinegar or verjuice. (ln the Middle Ages, sour flavourings such as verjuice, the juice of unripe grapes, were used a great deal in cooking, before citrus fruits and juices became common.)

When, towards the end of the seventeenth century, the use of spices declined in cooking, the consumption of sugar rose, possibly to compensate for the lack of spice. Sugar had also become much cheaper to buy because it was now being grown in many British colonies and dependencies. Tea, coffee and chocolate were the new drinks of this time and, as they were naturally rather bitter, sugar came to play a great part in their consumption. Because of all this, the eighteenth century is the heyday of the English puddings tradition, which is when the idea of ‘dessert’ as a separate course originated.

Sweetness also came from fruit, particularly dried. The Romans had brought in many fruit trees, among them apples (as opposed to the native crab apples), pears, plums and cherries, plus many that could only grow well in sheltered places here such as grapes, peaches, apricots and figs. Very few of these were actually eaten raw, because it was believed that raw fruit was bad for your health and digestion.

Everything was dried, cooked in pies and other puddings with sugar and spices, and made into preserves. This continued until the eighteenth century. Dried fruits such as raisins were also imported, and used in cooking a great deal by the wealthy. Poorer people ate them in pottages and pies for special occasions such as Christmas.

Most traditional British fruit-filled puddings and cakes are a result of this association of festivity with dried fruit. The multitude of suet puddings which became so popular took over the role of the thick pottages of earlier times, probably providing much the same sort of calorific satisfaction. That they contained meat fat or suet is a reminder of the medieval mixing of savoury and sweet, and the present day mince pie is a classic example — it was once actually made with meat. The rice and milk puddings of today are a sweet version of the medieval frumenty, again cooked in milk. The sweet pie tradition grew from the medieval pastry ‘coffins’ once containing meats and spices, and the clove in an apple pie is a classic example of this.

Bread too, once used as a trencher (plate), and to thicken sauces, played its part in sweet things as well. Many of our most famous and favourite puddings are bread based — summer puddings, queen of puddings, apple charlotte and many more, not forgetting, of course, bread and butter puddings. All the creamy puddings for which we are also famous developed because of our rich dairy produce, and they were included in the ‘banquet course’ which crowned sixteenth-century feasts.

Menu planning and cooking today have changed so much. Balancing textures and flavours throughout the meal is extremely important, quite often building the eating experience around the grand final course.

Sometimes I invite friends round for a drink and a snack and deliberately surprise them. Most expect a savoury dish, but now and again I offer them a chocolate flan, or steamed sponge and custard, or sherry trifle, or bread and butter puddings. This changes the whole evening as it becomes the talking point and everybody feels comfortable eating the pud because it’s the only course.

I hope this article will give you similar feelings and offer you a good range of puddings to choose from.

Baked Egg Custard Tart

The British have been making custard since someone thought of mixing eggs and milk together over heat. In Tudor times, custard was used as a filling for pastry ‘coffins’, sometimes with fruit added — in fact the word ‘custard’ comes from ‘crustade’, a pastry container or crust.

I have fond childhood memories of baked egg custard tarts, which were always a favourite with me, and tucking into one or two once home from school. Cooking them results in good memories for me and is always enjoyable. Once you’ve tried this recipe, I’m sure you won’t want to forget the experience.

The quantities listed here are an extreme extravagance — lots of egg yolks and cream — but they make for a deliciously rich dessert. The cooking times are a guide. If the tart seems to be almost liquid still, simply continue to cook at the same temperature, checking every 5-10 minutes until set. All eggs have different strengths, especially when using just yolks. In your own oven and with ‘your’ eggs the tart could take almost double the time. When checking the tart to see if it’s cooked, gently shake the tray. A gentle wobble will indicate that the puddings ready.

At the end of the recipe I have also listed quantities to fill a 25x 5 cm (10 x2 in) flan ring (12-16 portions). Another recipe featured in the book that is lovely to eat with the custard tart is Nutmeg Ice-cream

SERVES 8—12

250 g (9 oz) Sweet Shortcrust Pastry
1/2 nutmeg, grated, or 1/2 teaspoon ground nutmeg (optional)

For the Filling
500 ml (18 fl oz) whipping cream
75 g (3 oz) caster sugar
8 egg yolks
Grated nutmeg

To spread the nutmeg flavour throughout the whole dish, when making the sweet shortcrust pastry, grate the nutmeg into the flour before mixing with the other ingredients. Pre-heat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

Once the pastry has been made, roll out and line a 20-cm (8-in) greased flan ring (any excess pastry can be left hanging over the edge and trimmed once baked, to ensure an even finish). Line with greaseproof paper, rice or baking beans and bake for 15 minutes. Once cooked, remove from the oven, lifting the paper and beans or rice from the case.

Turn the oven down to 120°C/250°F/Gas Mark 1/2. To make the filling, bring the cream to the boil. Mix together the sugar and egg yolks. Pour the boiled cream onto the egg mixture and stir in well. Pass through a sieve, skimming any froth from the surface. Pour the custard tart mix into the baked pastry case, grating fresh nutmeg across the surface. Bake for 30-35 minutes until the custard has just set. Remove from the oven and allow to cool to room temperature before serving.

Note: This dessert eats at its absolute best at room temperature, with the eggs only just holding, and resulting in a soft and creamy texture. If refrigerated, the filling will firm and its full flavour be slightly lost.

Here are the quantities for a 25 x 5 cm (10 x 2 in) flan ring:
350 g (12 oz) Sweet Shortcrust Pastry
1 whole nutmeg, grated, or 1 teaspoon ground nutmeg (optional)

For the Filling
17 egg yolks
1.2 litres (2 pints) whipping cream
190 g (scant 7 oz) caster sugar
Grated nutmeg, for sprinkling

Follow the method for the smaller tart. The cooking time will need to be extended to 45 minutes-1 hour.

Jam Roly-poly

This is a classic example of British steamed puddings made with suet, but it is rolled with a filling, rather than being cooked in a pudding bowl. If this became a favourite during your schooldays, I think it stays with you for life. The gooey texture of suet sponge absorbing and oozing strawberry jam, to be finished with the flavour of fresh vanilla custard: need I say more? Here is the recipe.

225 g (8 oz) self-raising flour
1 teaspoon baking powder
Pinch of salt
Finely grated zest of 1 lemon or orange (optional)
150 g (5 oz) vegetarian or beef suet
100-150 ml (3%-5 fl oz) milk
150-175 g (5-6 oz) strawberry jam
Custard Sauce to serve

Sift together the self-raising flour, baking powder and pinch of salt. Add the grated zest of lemon or orange, if using, along with the suet, and work to a breadcrumb consistency. The milk can now be added, a little at a time, until a soft texture has formed, but do not allow to become sticky. Wrap in cling film and allow to rest for 20-30 minutes. The suet dough can now be rolled into a rectangle, approximately 30x 20 cm (12 x 8 in).

Spread the jam onto the paste, leaving a clear 1 cm (1/2 in) border. The border can now be brushed with water or extra milk before rolling. Pinch at either end to seal the jam inside. The roly poly can now be wrapped very loosely in greaseproof paper, followed by loose foil. Tie at either end. The puddings can now be steamed for 2 hours, topping up the water during the cooking time. Once cooked, unwrap, slice and serve with the custard.

Note: The orange or lemon zest is an optional extra, but either adds an extra flavour and bite to the dish. Orange marmalade, lemon curd or mincemeat can also be used as the filling in place of the jam.

Rhubarb Tart

Rhubarb is native to northern Asia, and did not reach Britain until the sixteenth century. It was used medicinally at first, and was not valued as a food until at least the eighteenth century. Home-made fresh fruit tarts are so seductive, the juicy fresh fruits sitting on top of a good home-made pastry cream — crème patisserie in French — in a crisp pastry case. They really are very special to eat. For rhubarb, I like to use sweet shortcrust pastry. This gives the crumbly texture needed to balance against the cream and soft texture of the fruit. The pastry case and cream will work as a lovely base for a tart made with almost any fruit — fresh raspberries, blackberries, strawberries, as well as any pre-cooked fruits (apricots, damsons, gooseberries, plums and so on).

300-350 g (10-12 oz) Sweet Shortcrust Pastry
750-900 g (1 1/2-2 lb) fresh rhubarb
60-75 g (2 1/2-3 oz) caster sugar

For the Pastry Cream (makes approx. 500 ml/17 fl oz)
4 egg yolks
75 g (3 oz) caster sugar
Salt
25 g (1 oz) cornflour
300 ml (1/2 pint) milk
1-2 vanillla pods, split and scraped, or 2-3 teaspoons vanilla essence
35 ml (1 1/4 fl oz) double cream
25 g (1 oz) unsalted butter

Pre-heat the oven to 220°C/425°F/Gas Mark 7. Roll the pastry on a floured surface to approximately 3 mm (1/8 in) thick, and use it to line a flan ring of 20-25 cm (8-9 in) diameter and 2.5-3.5 cm (1-1 1/2 in) deep. To guarantee a clean finish with no shrinking of the pastry, it’s best to have any excess hanging over the edge of the ring. (Once baked, this can be cut away with a sharp knife.) Prick the base of the pastry with a fork, and refrigerate for 20 minutes before baking.

Line the pastry case with greasepoof paper and baking beans or rice. Blind-bake in the oven for 20-25 minutes until golden and crispy. Remove from the oven, taking out the beans or rice and paper, trim the overhanging pastry and leave to cool. Reduce the oven temperature to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4.

To prepare the rhubarb, first peel it if slightly tough and stringy. Now cut it into 2-3 cm (3/4-1 1/4in) sticks and place in a roasting tray. Sprinkle with the sugar, place in the oven, and cook for 10-15 minutes or until tender. Remove from the oven and leave to cool. The rhubarb can now be carefully spooned from the tray, and any juices brought to the boil and reduced to a syrupy consistency. The rhubarb is now ready to use.

For a different finish, stand the cooked rhubarb on a baking tray, lightly dust with icing sugar and glaze under a hot grill or with a gas gun. This will give the fruit slightly burnt, bitter-sweet tinges, creating another flavour and colour. Leave to cool. Meanwhile, make the pastry cream. Cream together the egg yolks and Caster sugar in a bowl. Add a small pinch of salt and the cornflour. Bring the milk to the boil with the split and scraped vanilla pod (or essence) and pour onto the egg-yolk mixture. Return the mixture t0 the pan, bring back to the simmer and cook for a few minutes, making sure it doesn’t boil. Add the double cream and butter and then pass through a sieve. Press a piece of greaseproof paper or cling film onto the surface to prevent a skin from forming. Leave to cool.

The fresh, vanilla-tasting pastry cream is ready to use. (Grated fruit zests can be added to the milk for a different flavour.) You will need approximately 400 ml (14 fl oz); the remainder will last well in the fridge for 3-4 days.

When all the tart components are cold, the tart can be assembled. Spread the pastry cream into the flan ring, and fill to approximately 1 cm (1/2in) deep. Now sit the fruit on top, either carefully arranged on the cream or merely spooned over in a more rustic fashion. Brush the syrup over the rhubarb for a more flavoursome finish. The tart is now ready to enjoy, with the tender fruits and rich cream balanced by the crumbly pastry.

Note: Try using custard powder instead of cornflour in these puddings for an even more intense flavour. The quantities for this pastry cream recipe can be halved for a shallow mould. Once cooled, any remaining cream can be refrigerated for 3-4 days, or used as a base for individual fruit tartlets.

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