Cheesecake – Italian desserts part of ‘la dolce vita’
In her book on how to create homemade Italian desserts, called “Grace’s Sweet Life,” (Ulysses Press, 2012) author Grace Massa Langlois provides the home chef the opportunity to create some of the luscious cakes, cookies, cheesecake and other desserts that are part of ‘la dolce vita,’ the sweet life. These are worthy of a special occasion.
Torta al Formaggio Con Salsa di Ciliegie al Brandy
(Cheesecake with Brandy-Cherry Sauce)
Crosta di Biscotti (graham cracker crust):
2 1/4 cups graham cracker crumbs
1/4 cup superfine sugar
1/2 cup unsalted butter, melted
Ripieno di Formaggio (cream cheese filling):
5 1/4 cups cream cheese, softened
1 2/3 cups superfine sugar
3 tablespoons all-purpose flour, sifted
Finely grated zest of 1/2 lemon
Finely grated zest of 1/2 orange
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
5 large eggs, at room temperature
2 large egg yolks, at room temperature
Salsa de Ciliegie al Brandy (brandy-cherry topping):
1 1/2 tablespoons cornstarch
3 tablespoons water
4 2/3 cups frozen or 5 cups fresh sweet cherries, pitted, divided
1/2 cup orange juice
1/4 cup superfine sugar
Finely grated zest of
1/2 lemon
Splash of freshly squeezed lemon juice
Finely grated zest of 1/2 orange
2 tablespoons brandy
To make the graham cracker crust:
Position a rack at the center of the oven. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Unlatch a 9-inch springform pan, flip the base over so the lip is on the underside and cover the base with a sheet of parchment paper, leaving a 1 1/2-inch overhang. Reassemble the pan. Using a pastry brush, coat the paper and sides of the pan with softened butter.
In a medium bowl, stir together the graham cracker crumbs and sugar. Add the melted butter and stir until the mixture is evenly moistened. Press the crumb mixture onto the bottom and up the sides of the prepared pan, stopping about 1 inch from the top of the pan.
Raise the oven heat to 500 degrees and chill the pan in the freezer while you prepare the cream cheese filling.
To make the cream cheese filling:
In a stand mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese on medium speed until smooth, about 2 minutes, scraping down the sides and bottom of the bowl and the paddle, as needed.
Reduce the speed to low and gradually add the sugar and flour. Beat until smooth, about 2 minutes (do not overmix). Add the lemon zest, orange zest and vanilla. Beat to just combine. Reduce the speed to low and add the eggs and egg yolks, one at a time, beating to just combine after each addition, about 30 seconds (do not overmix), scraping the sides and bottom of the bowl after each addition.
To assemble:
Remove the crust from the freezer. Set the pan in the center of a rimmed baking sheet to catch any drips while the cake bakes. Pour the filling through a fine-mesh sieve (to catch any lumps) into the crust, using an offset spatula to level the filling.
Bake until puffed, about 12 minutes. Pay close attention — some ovens will brown the top quicker than others. (The author says, “I place a sheet of parchment over the top of the springform pan when the cheesecake top has just set, about the 6-minute mark for me.”)
Reduce the oven temperature to 200 degrees and continue baking until the cheesecake is mostly firm but the center still has a slight jiggle when the pan is gently shaken, about 1 hour.
Transfer the pan to a wire rack. Run a sharp, thin knife around the top edge of the cheesecake to loosen it to prevent the surface from cracking as it cools. Cool completely in the pan on the wire rack away from drafts. A drastic temperature change can cause the surface of the cheesecake to crack.
Chill the completely cooled cheesecake in the pan, uncovered or loosely covered, for at least 6 hours, preferably 24 hours, to allow the flavors to develop and the cheesecake to set to the perfect consistency, or up to 2 days.
Before serving, prepare the brandy-cherry topping.
To make the brandy-cherry topping:
In a small bowl, dissolve the cornstarch in the water.
In a medium saucepan, stir together 3 3/4 cups of the cherries and the orange juice and sugar. Cook over medium heat, stirring constantly until the sugar dissolves. Add the lemon zest and the orange zest, and bring to a boil over medium heat, stirring occasionally.
Pour the cornstarch mixture through a small sieve into the cherry mixture, stirring to combine well. Cook over medium heat for 2 minutes. Reduce the heat to low, add the brandy and remaining cherries, and simmer for 2 minutes. Remove from heat and transfer the cherry topping to a heatproof bowl. Allow the topping to cool completely at room temperature, then cover and refrigerate until cold.
To serve:
Remove the cheesecake from the refrigerator. Remove the ring from the springform pan and carefully pull the sides of the pan straight up off the cheesecake. Position the cheesecake so that the base is flush with the cake plate or cake stand. Position the parchment paper (the overhang) at the edge of the cake plate. Use a large offset spatula to carefully slide the cheesecake off the pan and parchment onto the cake plate.
Spoon the cherry topping over the cheesecake. Cut the cold cheesecake into serving slices using a thin knife dipped in hot water and wiped clean with a kitchen towel, making sure to dip the knife and wipe it dry after each cut. OR: Cut the cold cheesecake into slices and spoon cherry topping over each slice. Allow the cheesecake to come to room temperature before serving.
Torta all’ Arancia
(Orange Cake)
Cake:
6 large eggs (cold)
2 cups all-purpose flour
4 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup vegetable oil
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup plus 2 tablespoons superfine sugar, divided
Grated zest of 2 oranges
1 cup freshly squeezed orange juice
1/4 teaspoon cream of tartar
Syrup:
1 1/2 cups freshly squeezed orange juice
1/2 cup superfine sugar
Zest of 1 orange in large strips (no pith attached)
1/2 vanilla bean, split and seeded
2 to 3 tablespoons Cointreau or other orange liqueur
Separate the cold eggs. Place the yolks in a large bowl and the whites in a stand mixer. Cover each bowl with plastic wrap and allow the eggs to come to room temperature, about 30 minutes.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees. Very lightly coat with butter the bottom and sides of a 10-inch tube pan with feet and removable bottom.
Using a fine-mesh sieve, sift together the flour, baking powder and salt into a medium bowl. Whisk to combine well. Use a handheld mixer to beat the egg yolks, oil, vanilla and 1 cup sugar on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 2 minutes. Beat in the orange zest and juice.
Reduce the mixer speed to low and gradually add the flour mixture, beating to just combine (do not overmix).
In a stand mixer fitted with the whip attachment, beat the egg whites to stiff peaks, beginning at low speed and gradually increasing to medium-high. When the whites are foamy, add the cream of tartar. At the soft-peak stage, add the remaining 2 tablespoons sugar.
Using a large flexible spatula, fold one-third of the egg whites into the egg yolk mixture to lighten the batter, then carefully fold in the remaining egg whites until just combined.
Pour the batter into the prepared pan, spreading it evenly with an offset spatula.
Bake until golden and a cake tester inserted into the center comes out clean, 50 to 60 minutes. Remove from the oven and immediately invert the pan onto a wire rack. Let the cake cool completely in the pan upside down on the rack. While the cake bakes, prepare the orange syrup.
To make the syrup:
In a small saucepan over medium heat, bring the orange juice, sugar, orange zest, and the vanilla bean and seeds to a simmer, stirring until the sugar dissolves, about 5 minutes.
Reduce the heat to low, add the liqueur, and continue to simmer until the syrup reduces and thickens slightly, about 5 minutes. Remove from the heat and strain the syrup through a fine-mesh sieve into a pourable container. Allow the syrup to cool slightly.
To assemble and serve:
Flip the cake over, carefully run a thin knife around the edges of the pan and turn the cake out onto a serving plate or a cake stand.
To serve, place the cake on dessert plates and serve with warm orange syrup.
Sorbetto al Lampone
(Raspberry Sorbet)
1 cup bottled or filtered water
1 cup superfine sugar
4 cups raspberries
1 1/2 tablespoons freshly squeezed lemon juice
2 ounces vodka
1 large egg white
To make the sugar syrup, in a small saucepan over medium heat, bring the water and sugar to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Set aside to cool.
In a blender or food processor, process the raspberries and lemon juice to a smooth puree. Strain the puree through a fine-mesh sieve to remove the seeds (discard the solids).
Stir the puree into the cooled sugar syrup, and then stir in the vodka. Transfer the mixture to a medium bowl, cover and refrigerate until cold, at least 2 hours, or preferably overnight. Immediately before churning the sorbet, use a handheld mixer to beat the egg white at high speed to stiff peaks. Fold the whipped egg white into the cooled raspberry mixture.
To ensure a seed-free or almost seed-free sorbet, strain the mixture again through a fine-mesh sieve into a pourable container.
Pour the raspberry mixture into an ice cream maker and process according to manufacturer’s instructions. The sorbet will still be fairly soft but it will become firmer as it freezes. Transfer the sorbet to an airtight container. Cover and freeze until firm, at least 2 hours.
To serve the sorbet at its best, remove from the freezer and transfer to the refrigerator 15 minutes before serving. Sorbet should be served slightly soft, with a creamy consistency similar to that of soft-serve ice cream.
Reach reporter Karen Herzog at 250-8267 or [email protected].
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