Not-so-dud spuds brighten potatoes’ appeal
Potato breeder David Holm has put some color in the potato business during his 34-year career with Colorado State University.
But the rainbow of hues he helped introduce in today’s tubers is more than just cosmetic.
“The more pigmented they are higher the antioxidant level,” he said from his office at the San Luis Valley Research Center. “We need to educate the public about good naturally-occurring chemicals in plants. If we can get this stuff in a natural form, it’s probably much better than if we are taking it in pill form.”
Here in the valley, where planting is currently underway, potatoes grow faster than anywhere else in the world, making them the crop of choice in an area that also produces alfalfa hay and small grains. The 90 square miles of production, combined with a growing region in the northern part of the state, makes Colorado the fifth largest potato grower nationally.
Purple-fleshed fingerlings and other specialty potatoes are still relatively rare in mainstream grocery stores, and most of what is grown on Colorado’s large farms are traditional oblong russet baking potatoes.
Even so, the commercial potato growing industry supports Holm’s work to bring new colors, shapes and textures to one of the world’s most reliable and most widely grown vegetables.
“We as an industry need to continue to create a healthier product,” said Jim Ehrlich, executive director of the Colorado Potato Administrative Committee in Monte Vista. “It’s the same as with any other crop.”
Holm’s research includes work on “grower-friendly” traits like pest resistance, improved storage characteristics and reduced water usage. But his emphasis on human health benefits, including fibrous, slower-to-digest starches that have a more moderate impact on blood sugar levels, is equally important for boosting potatoes’ overall marketability.
“Part of our problem is the image of the French fry,” Ehrlich admited. “But you can’t buy a French fry in the U.S. today that has trans-fats in it. The manufacturers realized this was bad for people and changed the oils they used and changed the process.”
There are other factors to suggest the backlash against potatoes is losing steam. The U.S. Potato Board, which tracks consumer attitudes, reported that negative feelings about potatoes reached a nine-year low last year. Restaurant Hospitality Magazine named 2012 the year of the potato and predicted customized fries and chips with creative dusts and dips, as well as mashed potatoes with unusual “mix-ins,” would be among the year’s hottest dining trends.
Ehrlich says in 2010 the U.S. Department of Agriculture actually called for an increase in the recommended daily servings of starchy vegetables. Last year the federal agency was forced by the Senate to back down from new school lunch guidelines that would have dramatically reduced servings of potatoes.
In another positive sign, First Lady Michelle Obama planted several varieties of potatoes in the White House garden this spring as part of her campaign to encourage exercise and healthful eating. Three of the five were developed by CSU’s Holm, including the pink-fleshed Mountain Rose, which is high in healthy antioxidants, and the Sangre, which stores well without chemical treatment.
“I first did those crosses back in 1994, and we were looking for health attributes already back then,” Holm said.
Changing tastes
Somewhere around 95 percent of the potatoes grown in Colorado are sold as fresh potatoes destined for the dinner table. Colorful specialty potatoes are particularly attractive to home gardeners and farmers market growers. But large commercial farms can grow them, too, if there’s enough demand.
This year the focus of the U.S. Potato Board’s consumer education efforts is on helping consumers differentiate between tater types and determine how best to prepare them.
Evidence shows consumers are getting more accustomed to colored potatoes.
One barometer for the Colorado Potato Administrative Committee is the annual Ride the Rockies bike tour where baked potatoes are typically served. “Five years ago, everyone was afraid of the purple potatoes,” Ehrlich recalled. “Two years ago when we did it, they were actually seeking out the purple ones.”
Another success story is yellow potatoes, which are billed as buttery and creamy in flavor and are recommended for baking, roasting, grilling and mashing.
“Here in Colorado 8 to 10 percent of what we produce is a yellow potato. It’s very popular,” Ehrlich said. “That’s a category that is continuing to grow.”
“Twenty years ago, yellow potatoes were a very niche market,” Holm added. “But with the Yukon Gold potato, that started to change.”
Rod Lenz, a grower from Wray, Colo., has benefited from the trend. “Everybody has their specialty niche. Ours is the yellow-fleshed potato,” he said from his farm just days after finishing up spring planting. Potato varieties “have a ton of flavor differences,” and consumers are becoming more aware of them, he said.
“Of the people who come to our farm, 90 percent of them prefer the Yukons after that. It’s really a better potato,” added Lenz, who runs a farm-to-market stand offering fresh-dug potatoes and sweet corn during the summer.
Holm says he wants to develop a potato with even darker yellow flesh. Brighter coloration represents a higher concentration of carotenoids, compounds best known for promoting good eye health.
For his part, Ehrlich says he is looking forward to the introduction of what he calls “pinto” potatoes, which exhibit a marbled color. He says early samples have proven to be “very tasty.”
Lenz, who has hosted a CSU potato test plot on his farm for the past 15 years, says he is interested in growing more of the exotic new varieties, including the pinto test potato with its mottled purple skin and yellow flesh.
Consumer demand, however, ultimately determines how much acreage gets devoted to exotics.
“You either have to stick with it and push it or you need to have a store chain that will carry them as a way to differentiate itself in the marketplace,” Lenz said.
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