Potato – Perfectly simple

Baked potatoes are one of those wondrous foods that can bring glory to home cooks everywhere. Roast one plain in a hot oven and the skin becomes crusty, the steamy flesh inside tender, with a rich, mineral tang that hints of earth. The dish needs nothing else except perhaps a sprinkle of sea salt and freshly ground black pepper. It’s the perfect accompaniment to grilled fish or steak, a roasted chicken or lamb chops.

On the other hand, a baked potato is very simplicity makes it the perfect candidate for creative treatments. Stuffed potatoes (some call them “twice baked”) are among the more delicious treasures to explore. They’re versatile, too, making them useful as a snack or for lunch, as part of a meatless dinner or as a side dish with meat, poultry or fish.

Simple stuffed potato preparations can be quick and easy: Mix the cooked potato flesh with some cottage cheese or cooked vegetables, grated cheddar, crumbled bacon, leftover meat or chicken, chopped ham or even more esoteric items such as duck rillettes or fresh oysters.

But you can elaborate, too. If you add enough ingredients, a baked stuffed potato can become the entrée, either meaty or vegetarian.

It all begins with the right potato, and that means a russet or Idaho potato, which is oval, with dark brown, thick, rough-looking skin. Although Yukon Golds also bake nicely, a russet’s flesh is the driest, so it bakes the fluffiest and no other variety beats its skin for sheer crunch. Organic russets have a fresher, earthier taste than non-organic types, so they are worth searching out.

It’s a cinch to bake a potato properly. Scrub them first and be sure to preheat the oven to 400 degrees, so they get a blast of searing, crust-forming heat immediately. It’s not necessary to rub them with a film of oil. And don’t wrap them in aluminum foil, which steams the potatoes rather than baking them, and causes the skin to be soggy. Before you put the potatoes in the oven, pierce the skin in one place with the tip of a sharp knife, otherwise the steam building inside could cause them to burst in your oven.

The potato is done when you can easily pierce through the skin to the middle with the knife. Let them rest for a few minutes so that you can handle them easily, then cut them in half lengthwise, which is easier and faster to do with a serrated knife. Scoop the flesh into a bowl, mix in the other ingredients and spoon the mixture back into the hollowed skins.

You can reheat the potato halves immediately (in the oven or, for a crispier surface, under the broiler), but one of the bonuses of stuffed potatoes is the reheat factor. Save them for another hour or day in the refrigerator, take them out about a half hour before you bake them the second time and put them on a cookie sheet to reheat (in a moderately hot oven, about 375 degrees). Some versions are freezable (most with cheese and spinach, for example) — wrap the halves individually in plastic wrap.

Serving size varies depending on how you plan to use the potato. As an accompaniment to a meat entrée one half stuffed potato is the right amount; as a main course or part of a vegetarian dinner you may need extra.

Basic Baked Potato

Makes 4 servings

4 russet-type potato

Place an oven rack in the center of the oven. Heat the oven to 400 degrees. Prick the potato with the tip of a sharp knife. Place the potato in the hot oven and bake for about one hour or until the knife can easily pierce through the potato.

Baked, Stuffed Potato with Cream Cheese and Chives

Makes 4-8 servings

1 recipe Baked Potato

3 tablespoons cream cheese

2 tablespoons butter

4-5 tablespoons milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

2 tablespoons chopped chives

When the potatoes are cooked and cool enough to handle, slice them in half lengthwise and scoop the flesh into a bowl. Add the cream cheese and butter and mash into the potatoes. Mix in enough of the milk to achieve a moist and tender consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Mix in the chives. Spoon the mixture back in equal amounts inside the potato skins. When ready to bake, heat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the filled potato skins on a cookie sheet and bake for about 15 minutes or until hot, with the skins crispy.

To make a lower calorie version, substitute 1 cup cottage cheese, plus 1/2 cup skim buttermilk for the cream cheese, butter and milk.

Baked, Stuffed Potato with Bacon, Cabbage and Cheese

Makes 4-8 servings

1 recipe Baked Potatoes

8 slices bacon

4 tablespoons butter

1 medium onion, chopped

2 cups shredded cabbage

4-6 tablespoons milk

2 cups shredded sharp cheddar cheese

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

When the potatoes are cooked and cool enough to handle, slice them in half lengthwise and scoop the flesh into a bowl. Fry the bacon in a sauté pan over medium heat for 8-10 minutes or until the bacon is browned and crispy. Remove the bacon and crumble the strips into the bowl with the potatoes. Discard all but one tablespoon of bacon fat from the pan. Add 2 tablespoons of the butter and cook over medium heat. When the butter has melted and looks foamy, add the onion and cabbage and cook, tossing the vegetables frequently, for about 8 minutes or until the cabbage is wilted and lightly browned. Add the vegetables to the potatoes. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons butter. Gently mash the potatoes with the vegetables and butter. Mix in enough of the milk to achieve a moist and tender consistency. Fold in most of the grated cheese. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the mixture back in equal amounts inside the potato skins. When ready to bake, heat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the filled potato skins on a cookie sheet, sprinkle equal amounts of the remaining cheese on top of each potato and bake for about 15 minutes or until hot, with the skins crispy.

Baked, Stuffed Potato with Feta Cheese and Spinach

Makes 4-8 servings

1 recipe Baked Potato

2 tablespoons butter

2 tablespoons olive oil

1 large clove garlic, finely chopped

1 bunch fresh spinach, rinsed and dried

8 ounces crumbled feta cheese

1 1/2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill or 1 teaspoon dried oregano

4-5 tablespoons milk

Salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste

When the potatoes are cooked and cool enough to handle, slice them in half lengthwise and scoop the flesh into a bowl. Add the butter and mash into the potatoes. Heat the olive oil in a saute pan over medium heat. Add the garlic and spinach and cook for 2-3 minutes until the spinach has wilted. Press the spinach to discard as much liquid as possible. Chop the spinach and add to the potatoes. Add the feta cheese and dill and mix ingredients gently to distribute them evenly. Mix in enough of the milk to achieve a moist and tender consistency. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Spoon the mixture back in equal amounts inside the potato skins. When ready to bake, heat the oven to 375 degrees. Place the filled potato skins on a cookie sheet and bake for about 15 minutes or until hot, with the skins crispy.

Ronnie Fein is a cookbook author and cooking teacher in Stamford. Visit her food blog, Kitchen Vignettes, at www.ronniefein.com

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