LAMPREY

In Roman times, the lamprey was regarded as a mysterious river creature. In those days, not only did people eat the fish, but fish ate the people. The Roman governors in Galicia would punish rebellious slaves by throwing them into the rivers and seas, which were teeming with the eel-like monsters.

However, all evil associations aside, the lamprey has always been regarded as a delicacy, particularly in France. It is said that in the Middle Ages the Iamproies of Nantes were so sought that Parisian fishmongers would travel right out of the city to their suppliers, for fear of going away empty-handed.

The lamprey (lamprea) belongs to the vertebrate group of cyclostomes, which means, strictly speaking, that it is not actually a fish. It fixes itself to fish and other aquatic animals by the suckers and horny teeth of its round mouth, and then sucks their blood and other bodily fluids. Behind its nostril and single eye, the lamprey has seven gill slits on each side of the neck. It can grow up to 5 feet (1.5 meters) in length, and has a smooth, slimy skin. Its upper body is dark-brown or grey-blue with dark flecks, while its underside is lighter in colour.

In winter, the lamprey swims from the open sea to spawn in the rivers. However, the species has become very rare throughout Europe, due to the pollution and congestion of the rivers. In Spain, the lamprey can now be found only in the lower course of the Rio Guadiana in Extremadura and in Galicia, particularly in the Rio Miño.

Lamprey are caught between January and April using biturones, a sort of spiral-shaped trap. At this time of year, gourmets from all over Galicia gather up their kith and kin and flock to the Arbo area to enjoy a well-prepared lamprey.

The season culminates in the festival of Saint Joseph (San José) on March 19. On this day, restaurants on the Rio Mino renowned for their lamprey dishes are all packed. Experts make sure of buying their lamprey alive, so that they are absolutely fresh. This ensures that the dark, fatty, slightly sweet flesh, which many connoisseurs even prefer to eel, is of the best quality.

A popular way of preparing lamprey is to boil or braise it in its own blood, if possible with red Ribeiro wine. However, it also goes well with garlic, onions, and a wine vinegar sauce; with mushrooms in an onion and wine sauce, or as a filling for empanailas. In Galicia, lamprey dishes are served with rice and toasted breadcrumbs (picatostes). A less common way of preparing lamprey is to smoke or air-dry it. Lamprey preserved in this way must be soaked overnight before being eaten. A hearty lamprey dish should be accompanied by a tannic rosé or red wine, preferably a drop of decent wine from the banks of the Río Sil or the Ribeiro and Condado de Tea regions.

LAMPREA GUISADA

Lamprey in its own juices

1 lamprey about 31/4 lbs/1.5 kg
3/4 cup/200 ml olive oil
3/4 cup/200 ml wine vinegar
1/2 cup/125 ml dry reel wine
2 cloves of garlic, finely chopped
Salt and pepper
Pinch of ground cinnamon

Wash the lamprey well under hot water and pat it dry. Remove the gall bladder from beneath the mouth. Slit the fish lengthwise along its belly and collect the blood. Then gut and clean the fish and rinse out the belly cavity. Combine the blood, olive oil, wine vinegar, and wine, and bring to a boil in a large pan. Add the garlic and season the liquor with salt, pepper, and cinnamon. Lay the fish in the cooking liquor, and bring it back to a boil. Cover and leave on a low heat for around 25 minutes without letting it boil. Then cut the fish into portions and return it to the cooking liquor. Serve immediately, with fresh white bread or rice. Galicians also like serving it with toasted breadcrumbs.

Fish & Seafood with Bill & Sheila

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