Your Weekly Treat: The Best Barbecue Sauce? Look For The Mustard

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Your Weekly Treat: The Best Barbecue Sauce? Look For The Mustard

The endless arguments over the world’s best barbecue sauce—Texas vs. Memphis vs. North Carolina, vinegar-based versus tomato-based, on and on—often neglect a key alternative: None of the Above. The sauce that is disappearing around my house—on ribs, hot dogs, pork loin, basically on any excuse for food—is Bone Suckin Sweet Hot Mustard Sauce ($7 per 12oz). It is made in the Lexington Dip-style stronghold of western North Carolina, but the inspiration is pure south of the (North Carolina) border.

South Carolina-style mustard-based barbecue sauce can be news even to professionals. “I went to college in Charleston,” remembers Patrick Ford, who serves as marketing director (“and dock hand and truck loader”) for his family’s gourmet food enterprise, which includes the Bone Suckin label. “When I was first there I ordered a barbecue sandwich and it came out yellow. I couldn’t believe it! I sent it back. The owner of the place came out and said ‘You’re not from down here, are you boy?’”

It was the beginning of a culinary love affair. While the Fords’ more traditional tomato-inflected Bone Suckin Sauce has garnered most of the praise and awards, the Sweet Hot Mustard version has become Pat Ford’s personal favorite—“When I say I put it on everything, I mean potato salad, devilled eggs. Everything.”

It is easy to get hooked. The Bone Suckin barbecue sauces are very natural-tasting, like something your Southern grandmother might have put up in a jar next to the pickle relish if she’d been visited by a blinding inspiration. Intriguingly lively and sweet on entry—from molasses and brown sugar—the Sweet Hot Mustard sauce finishes with a crisp, fresh kick from chopped jalapenos that seem to cleanse your palate and prime you for the next bite. Combined with any remotely smoky meat it takes your mouth on a multi-stop journey. And travel can be so broadening…just ask Pat Ford.

Bill & Sheila’s Barbecue

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