Chilled Pea and Lettuce Soup with Fresh Herbs is as refreshing as a dip in a lake

Adaptability is one of the soup’s many virtues, and it may be enjoyed chilled, room temperature or reheated; a versatility appreciated with the schizophrenic weather to which we’ve grown accustomed. When there’s a chill in the air, you could make the soup and serve it warm, then serve it cold the next day as temperatures rise.

Indeed, on a sweltering summer day, savoring a cup of this chilled pea soup enhanced with a variety of fresh herbs, is as refreshing as swimming in a cool Michigan lake. And, as a strong crawl through water, it’s nourishing to boot.

According to diabetes help.com, research indicates that eating a large, low calorie salad as a first course may help lower caloric intake through the rest of the meal — a dieting tip pubescent girls have bandied about locker rooms since grade school. Savoring a fiber-rich, vegetable-based soup — in fact, a liquid salad — serves the same purpose.

Unlike a green salad, however, which tastes best dressed and tossed with vegetables just before eating, most chilled soups can be made several days in advance; indeed, this silky soup’s flavor intensifies after confinement in the fridge. The abundance of peas thicken the broth, and the longer it sits, the thicker it becomes. Double the batch, have a cup each day, and think of it as a delicious cleansing regime for the week.

Most of us are no stranger to the chilled Andalusian classic, Gazpacho, and there are hundreds of interpretations, most of them nutritious and low in fat. This pea soup shares the same virtues, requesting we broaden our gazpacho horizons. Actually, it’s a variation on a French classic, Potage St. Germain, a soup usually served heated and predominantly composed of pureed green peas — petit pois — as well.

Fresh peas aren’t essential to the success of the soup; frozen peas work well. But with sweet fresh peas coming into season, it’s a bonus if they can be used. (As well, I imagine the soup wouldn’t suffer from a dollop of rich creme fraiche spooned over each bowl before serving.)

The following recipe was adapted from Martha Rose Shulman’s Chilled Pea, Lettuce and Herb Soup. I used a bit less stock and switched up the amount of herbs, based on those that needed pinching back in my garden. I’m not growing parsley, so I omitted it. In my next batch I might try substituting the bibb lettuce for more piquant greens, such as arugula or watercress.

The velvety soup can take the place of a salad or vegetable at a meal. It’s emerald brilliancy will set the mood for the most elaborate of dinner parties, capturing the limelight when served as a first course. Since it’s puréed, a spoon is not essential, so it may also be sipped from small cups while standing at a gathering.

My husband, Richard, and I had no accompaniments for our deep bowls, but for a locally baked Jeff Renner baguette, creamy goat cheese and a crisp, herbaceous Sauvignon Blanc.

Yield: 4-6 main course servings
Active Time: 20 minutes
Chill Time: at least 3 hours and up to several days.

Ingredients

3 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (your best, fruity olive oil preferred)
2 leeks, white and light green part only, washed and thinly sliced
5 cups fresh or frozen peas
3 cups, tightly packed, coarsely chopped Boston or bibb lettuce
5 cups vegetable or chicken stock
1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh tarragon leaves
1/2 cup coarsely chopped fresh mint leaves
1/3 cup chopped chives, plus additional for garnish
Chopped fresh tarragon, chives and/or mint for garnish

Directions

1. In a large heavy-bottomed pot, heat 1 tablespoon of oil over medium heat. Stir in the leeks and a pinch of kosher salt. Cook, occasionally stirring, until tender, 4-5 minutes. Add the peas, lettuce and 5 cups of stock. Bring to a boil, then cover and reduce heat and simmer for 5 minutes. Remove from heat.
2. Drain through a strainer set over a bowl, and allow the vegetables and stock to cool several minutes.
3. Working in batches, purée the vegetables and herbs in a blender with 4 cups of the stock, and remaining 2 tablespoons olive oil until smooth. Add additional stock to desired level of thickness, keeping in mind the soup will thicken a bit when thoroughly chilled. Pour into a bowl, and stir to combine. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. (Best served after 24 hours.)
4. Serve garnished with additional chives, tarragon and/or mint.

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