Mad about saffron, especially in paella

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Mad about saffron, especially in paella

Saffron is a spice derived from the flower of Crocus sativus, commonly known as the saffron crocus. Crocus is a genus in the family Iridaceae. Each saffron crocus grows to 20–30 cm (8–12 in) and bears up to four flowers, each with three vivid crimson stigmas, which are each the distal end of a carpel. Together with the styles, or stalks that connect the stigmas to their host plant, the dried stigmas are used mainly in various cuisines as a seasoning and colouring agent. Saffron, long among the world’s most costly spices by weight, is native to Southwest Asia and was first cultivated in Greece. As a genetically monomorphic clone, it was slowly propagated throughout much of Eurasia and was later brought to parts of North Africa, North America, and Oceania.

The saffron crocus, unknown in the wild, likely descends from Crocus cartwrightianus, which originated in Crete or Central Asia; C. thomasii and C. pallasii are other possible precursors. The saffron crocus is a triploid that is “self-incompatible” and male sterile; it undergoes aberrant meiosis and is hence incapable of independent sexual reproduction—all propagation is by vegetative multiplication via manual “divide-and-set” of a starter clone or by interspecific hybridisation. If C. sativus is a mutant form of C. cartwrightianus, then it may have emerged via plant breeding, which would have selected for elongated stigmas, in late Bronze-Age Crete.

Saffron’s bitter taste and iodoform- or hay-like fragrance result from the chemicals picrocrocin and safranal. It also contains a carotenoid dye, crocin, which imparts a rich golden-yellow hue to dishes and textiles. Its recorded history is attested in a 7th-century BC Assyrian botanical treatise compiled under Ashurbanipal, and it has been traded and used for over four millennia. Iran now accounts for approximately 90 percent of the world production of saffron.[14] Because each flower’s stigmas need to be collected by hand and there are only a few per flower, saffron is the most expensive spice in the world.

My first experience with saffron turned into love at first scent. Although pungent at first, saffron adds a wonderful floral note to dishes once cooked.

It’s the world’s most expensive spice, and no wonder. Saffron comes from the dried stigmas of a purple crocus, and each flower has only three stigmas, which must be hand-picked. It takes more than 14,000 of those tiny stigmas to make an ounce of saffron.

At Penzeys Spices, a half-gram jar of Spanish saffron runs $8.49-$9.59. Other varieties from India or Kashmir cost upward of $13 for a half-gram. It may be expensive, but a pinch goes a long way.

Saffron looks like a small, tangled mess of red threads. The redder the threads, the higher the quality. You can crush the tiny threads and add them directly to what you’re making, or steep them first in a small amount of liquid.

One well-known use of saffron is in the Spanish dish paella. It’s used not only for flavor, but to tint the rice. Saffron also is used in risottos and in some seafood bisques.

Paella seems like a lot of work, and many paella recipes have a laundry list of ingredients. But that’s what makes the dish great, especially for a party. It’s a huge mix of ingredients and flavors that meld incredibly well. You can make paella with all seafood or all chicken, or add more of your favorite vegetables. And though the signature paella pan is wide and shallow, any large skillet with a lid will do.

Today’s recipe

is adapted from Martha Stewart’s Everyday Food magazine. It goes together in less than an hour. Instead of using chicken thighs and Spanish chorizo, it calls for chicken sausage. I used shrimp because that’s what I had on hand, but you can add clams, mussels or even lobster.

Spices – saffron at Bill & Sheila’s Cookbook

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