Cottage cake like Grandma used to make

Q: First I want you to know how much I enjoy your column and look forward to it each week. You have often stated that family recipes should be gathered and treasured, you are so right. I am 76, and my grandmother made a very simple cake that she topped with a lemon sauce. The sauce is easy to replicate, but I have never found a recipe for the cake that matches hers. It was usually baked in a square pan and had a coarser texture than the average cake, but there was not corn meal in it.

-Patsy Janowitz, Hialeah, Fla.

A: I knew immediately what you were describing. It actually is called cottage pudding, though it really is a plain cake meant to soak in a nice lemon sauce. It was as much a staple in our grandmothers’ kitchens as shortcake or sponge cake. The recipe appeared in the original 1896 version of the “Fannie Farmer Cookbook.” I adapted the version here from Meta Givens’ 1947 “The Modern Family Cook Book.”

OLD-FASHIONED COTTAGE CAKE WITH LEMON SAUCE

1 1/2 cups flour

1 1/2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup shortening or butter

3/4 cup sugar

1 egg

1 teaspoon vanilla

1/2 cup milk

Heat oven to 350 degrees. Grease an 8-inch square baking pan.

Whisk the flour with the baking powder and salt. Beat the shortening with an electric mixer until fluffy, then blend in sugar until no granules remain. Beat in the egg, then the vanilla. Add about a third of the flour mixture alternately with a third of the milk, beating well after each addition. Scrape into prepared pan and bake about 30 minutes, until cake tests done. Serve with lemon sauce. Makes 8 servings.

Per serving: 236 calories (29 percent from fat), 7.7 g fat (2.1 g saturated, 3 g monounsaturated), 25 mg cholesterol, 3.7 g protein, 37.8 g carbohydrates, 0.6 g fiber, 211 mg sodium.

LEMON SAUCE

1 tablespoon cornstarch

3/4 cup sugar

Dash of salt

1 egg, separated and yolk beaten

1 tablespoon butter

2 tablespoons lemon juice

Mix the cornstarch, sugar and salt in a heavy saucepan. Add 3/4 cup water and cook over medium heat, watching closely and stirring often, until mixture comes to a boil. Reduce heat to low and cook 2 minutes, until thickened.

Very gradually beat lemon mixture into egg yolk to temper. Return to pan and cook over low heat 2 minute, stirring.

Off heat, add butter and lemon juice, stirring until incorporated. Cool.

Beat egg white until stiff and fold into the sauce. Serve hot or cold. Makes 8 servings.

Per serving: 100 calories (18 percent from fat), 2 g fat (1 g saturated, 0.6 g monounsaturated), 27 mg cholesterol, 0.8 g protein, 20 g carbohydrates, 0 fiber, 39 mg sodium.

PORK POSSIBILITIES

I am not versatile when it comes to pork chops, and it turns out that I am not alone. A recent study for America’s pork producers found that most cooks “limit themselves to the same routine preparation methods.” So, of course the National Pork Board hired a chef to entice us to try something new.

The recipes, created by Madison Cowan of the TV series “No Kitchen Required,” are fascinating and different. The Moroccan-spiced dish here is from the collection, and you can find more at porkbeinspired.com. Next on my list to try are the chops stuffed with chorizo, Manchego cheese and dates.

MOROCCAN-INSPIRED RIB RAGU WITH COUSCOUS CAKES

2 pounds boneless pork blade chops (country-style ribs), cut into 1-inch cubes

2 tablespoons olive oil

2 teaspoons Spanish or Hungarian sweet paprika

2 teaspoons ground coriander

2 teaspoons ground turmeric

2 teaspoons sea salt

1 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

1 teaspoon ground ginger

1 teaspoon ground cumin

Tagine:

2 tablespoons olive oil, as needed

2 large leeks, white and pale green parts, thinly sliced and washed well

2 large carrots, sliced

1 cinnamon stick

2 (3-inch) sprigs of fresh thyme

1/2 teaspoon crushed red chile flakes

2 bay leaves

6 garlic cloves, sliced

1 (28-ounce) can chopped tomatoes with their juices

1 cup canned low-sodium chicken broth or homemade stock

1 tablespoon tomato paste

1 (15.5-ounce) can chickpeas, drained and rinsed

1/4 cup coarsely chopped fresh cilantro

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped fresh mint

Couscous Cakes:

1 1/2 cup chicken stock or broth

1 cup couscous

1/4 cup sliced almonds

1/4 cup dried currants

2 tablespoons coarsely chopped chives

Zest of 1 lemon

1/2 teaspoon sea salt

1/4 teaspoon freshly ground pepper

2 large egg yolks, beaten

3 tablespoons olive oil

For the pork chops: Put pork cubes in a large bowl and toss with oil. Mix paprika, coriander, turmeric, salt, pepper, ginger and cumin, Sprinkle half of the spice mixture over pork and toss well. Cover and refrigerate at least 1 and up to 3 hours. Reserve remaining spice mixture.

To make the tagine: Heat oil in a Dutch oven over medium-high heat. In batches, brown pork on all sides, about 4 minutes. Transfer to a plate.

Add more oil to pan if needed. Add leeks, carrots, cinnamon, thyme, chile flakes and bay leaves; saut(c) about 4 minutes. Stir in garlic and cook until fragrant, about 1 minute. Stir in remaining spices and cook for 15 seconds.

Stir in tomatoes with their juices, broth and tomato paste. Bring just to boil, stirring occasionally, reduce heat and simmer, stirring occasionally, until juices thicken and vegetables are just tender, about 20 minutes. Stir in chickpeas. Bury the pork in the sauce and cover. Simmer until the pork is just tender, about 10 minutes.

Meanwhile, make the couscous cakes: Bring stock to a boil in a medium saucepan over high heat. Stir in couscous, almonds, currants, chives, lemon zest, salt, and pepper. Remove from heat and cover tightly for 10 minutes. Transfer to a medium bowl. Fluff with a fork. Stir in yolks. Press into six 3-inch patties. Transfer to a plate and let stand 5 minutes.

Heat olive oil in a nonstick skillet over medium-high heat. Fry cakes, turning once, until golden, about 3 minutes per side. Transfer to paper towels to drain. Remove bay leaves and thyme sprigs from ragu. Sprinkle with cilantro and mint, and serve hot, with couscous cakes. Makes 6 servings.

Per serving: 615 calories (35 percent from fat), 24.6 g fat (5.6 g saturated, 13.7 g monounsaturated), 154 mg cholesterol, 46.5 g protein, 57 g carbohydrates, 8.8 g fiber, 1,652 mg sodium.

SLEUTH’S CORNER

Q: I recently came across some old papers from my parents’ wedding in 1948. One was a bill from the caterer for the wedding cake, which is described as having “Baltimore filling with cherries, pecans and figs.” I have found all kinds of recipes for Baltimore cake, or Lady Baltimore cake, but none for Baltimore filling. Can your readers help? I’d love to consider this for my own wedding.

-Bride-to-be, Leland, N.C.

(Send questions and responses to [email protected] or Food, 1 Herald Plaza, Miami, FL 33132. Personal replies are not possible.)

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