A Selection of Wine From Austria

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Gauging the power

Under the official Wachau classification, wine is graded into three categories, according to their alcohol levels. The lightest wines, with a maximum of 11.5 percent, are called Steinfeder, after a wispy grass that grows in the vineyards. Wines of 11.5 percent to 12.5 percent are labeled Federspiel, a reference to the practice of falconry, which used to be popular among the local nobility. The most powerful wines, with 12.5 percent or more are named Smaragd, after a small green lizard that skitters about among the stone walls that support the terraces.

Some producers have opted out of this system and use only the name of their vineyards. I tasted mostly wines from the 2011 vintage, which is now coming onto the market and which looks highly promising. The wines are ripe and concentrated. Despite lower acidity levels than in 2010, the 2011s are also fresh and lively. The Grüner Veltliners often have a tinge of green that, local growers say, suggests considerable aging potential. The Rieslings could turn out even better.

Grüner Veltliner

Martin Muthenthaler, Wachauer Steillagen.
A good entry-level Veltliner from a self-taught vintner who works organically. Grapes are from a mix of excellent terraced sites, unusual in a wine at this price. About €12.

Pichler-Krutzler, Supperin.
This shows the fresh, peppery, varietal side of Veltliner in an attractive way, but there is also considerable depth and breadth. About €25.

Weingut Franz Hirtzberger, Honivogl Smaragd.
Rich and intensely flavored, with a velvety texture and a savory, spicy complexity. There’s clearly a lot of botrytis, or noble rot, in the mix, yet the wine remains lively rather than heavy. About €50.

Riesling

Weingut Rudi Pichler, Federspiel.
Yes, there are lots of Pichlers in the Wachau. This one has produced a good Federspiel, with peach and apricot notes and a subtle salinity. About €12.

Weingut Prager, Wachstum Bodenstein Smaragd.
This lofty site, at 400 meters, or 1,300 feet, altitude delivered a wine of great purity and finesse in 2011, with aromas of white fruits and flowers and a zesty, citrusy finish. About €35.

Weingut Veyder-Malberg, Buschenberg.
The wonderfully open, perfumed nose and medium weight are deceptive; this is not an easygoing wine at all, but an impressively structured vin de garde in a Burgundian vein. About €60.

Bill & Sheila’s Wine

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