Wine - A stand-out California cabernet

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Wine – A stand-out $16 California cabernet

Bonterra

One of the bigger challenges for wine lovers is finding notable under-$20 reds from California. The cost of land in Napa and Sonoma pretty much rules out the prospect of wineries in those famed regions offering interesting bargain bottles. It is possible to find them from elsewhere, and one wine that stands out is Bonterra’s 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon made with grapes from neighboring Mendocino and Lake Counties.

Central to Bonterra’s marketing strategy is that it produces its wine from organically grown grapes – and puts the fact right on the label. As more people turn to organic produce and marketers try to capitalize on the distinction, some may be drawn to such wines for that reason alone, although it doesn’t necessarily mean they will taste better than wines made from conventionally grown grapes.

Fortunately, I think that Bonterra is on to something with its cabernet, which is a very good value at a suggested price of $16. First, it actually tastes like cabernet, unlike so many inexpensive California examples that are more generic. Its complexity is enhanced by blending in small amounts of other red varieties, including petite sirah, carignan, syrah and malbec.

Second, the wine is relatively light – alcohol is a modest 13.5 percent, which makes it easy to drink and to match with a variety of foods. Its plum and blackberry tastes are not overshadowed by oak, which imparts not much more than a subtle cedar note, and there is a decent tannic structure for a wine at this price. I also picked up a slightly “stemmy” note that doesn’t detract from the overall impression. I enjoyed it with chicken pot pie, and it will pair well with burgers, steaks, pork chops and other casual meals.

To make it even more refreshing, try chilling it for 10 minutes or so. With about 1.3 million bottles produced, it’s widely available nationally.

Edward Deitch is a James Beard Award-winning wine critic. Find many more of his wine reviews and commentary on his blog, Vint-ed.com, and follow him on Twitter.

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