Souffle Secrets

A Souffle is held up by beaten egg whites and hot air. As the souffle cooks, the air within it expands and pushes it upwards, sometimes as much as doubling its height.

A Souffle is, technically, always hot. Although iced or cold souffles are actually mousses, they are sometimes called souffles—they are held up by gelatine and beaten egg whites and will not collapse like hot souffle. The lightness in a cold souffle comes from the egg whites themselves, rather than the expansion of hot air. Souffles can be made on a custard-type base, a roux base, or, for a really light result, a fruit puree.

MAKING A PERFECT SOUFFLE

To get the best rise out of a soufflé, you will need a straight-sided ovenproof glass or ceramic soufflé dish (a metal dish will give a quicker cooking time, but be careful as some fruits react with metal and turn the souffle grey around the edge). If the mixture comes more than two-thirds of the way up the dish, you will need to make a collar. The following instructions are for a souffle based on a fruit puree.

You will need about 250 g (8 oz) of fruit (we’ve used 2 mangoes and the pulp from 4 passionfruit), 4 egg whites and 3 tablespoons caster sugar. Separate the eggs one by one into a smaller bowl, just in case one of them breaks.

To make a collar, wrap a double layer of non-stick baking paper around a 1.5 litre soufflé dish so that it extends 5 cm (2 inches) above the rim. Fix it firmly in place with a piece of string.

Lightly grease the inside of the dish and collar with melted butter or flavourless oil and sprinkle with a little caster sugar. Turn the dish so the sugar coats the entire surface of the dish and collar, then turn the dish upside down and tap to loosen any excess sugar. The sugar will help the soufflé grip and climb up the side of the dish as it cooks. Preheat the oven to hot 22OC (425F/Gas 7) and put a baking tray on the middle shelf

Puree the mango in a food processor and then add the passionfruit (leave the seeds in If you wish but do not process). Place the egg whites in a large, very clean, dry stainless steel or glass bowl—any hint of grease will prevent them foaming. (Traditionally, egg whites are beaten in copper bowls as the copper and whites react to form a more stable foam. If you use a copper bowl, you must clean it with 2 tablespoons salt mixed with 2 tablespoons lemon juice or vinegar, and rinse and dry it thoroughly just before you use it.) Leave the whites for a few minutes to reach room temperature, then beat with a balloon whisk or electric beaters. A balloon whisk gives better volume than electric beaters as each sweep of the whisk passes through the whole amount of whites, but make sure you use a large enough whisk—a small one will not give you enough volume. Beat slowly until the whites start to become a frothy foam, then increase your speed until the bubbles in the foam have become small and evenly-sized. When the foam forms stiff peaks, add the sugar little by little. Continue beating until the mixture is glossy—don’t overbeat or it will become grainy and not rise well.

Fold two spoonfuls of the whites into the fruit puree and mix well to loosen and lighten the mixture. Fold in the remaining whites with a large metal spoon, being careful not to lose any volume. Pour into the dish and run your finger around the edge to loosen the mixture from the side of the dish. Place on the baking tray in the oven—unless it’s an emergency, don’t open the oven door until the cooking time is up. It should take 20-25 minutes to cook. If the soufflé is rising more on one side than the other, carefully rotate the dish. Some fruit may have a higher sugar content and cause the top of the soufflé to brown too quickly. If so, rest a piece of foil on top of the soufflé to prevent over—browning. When the soufflé is ready, it should have a pale gold crust and not wobble too much. It should be served immediately, as soufflés wait for no-one. Traditionally, you would make a hole in the centre and pour in a contrasting fruit sauce or cream.

HOT MOCHA SOUFFLE

3 tablespoons caster sugar
40 g (1 1/4 oz) unsalted butter
2 tablespoons plain flour
3/4 cup (185 ml/6 fl oz) milk
1 tablespoon instant espresso-style coffee powder
100 g (3 1/2 oz) good-quality dark chocolate, melted
4 eggs, separated
icing sugar, to dust

Preheat the oven to moderate 180°C (350F/ Gas 4). Wrap a double thickness of baking paper around a 1.25 litre souffle dish extending 3 cm(1 1/4 inches) above the rim, then tie securely with string. Brush with oil or melted butter, sprinkle l tablespoon of` the sugar into the dish, shake the dish to coat the base and side evenly, then shake out the excess.

Melt the butter in a pan, add the flour and stir over low heat for 2 minutes, or until lightly golden. Add the milk gradually, stirring until smooth. Stir over medium heat until the mixture boils and thickens; boil for another minute, then remove from the heat. Transfer to a large bowl.

Dissolve the coffee in 1 tablespoon hot water, add to the milk with the remaining sugar, melted chocolate and egg yolks, then beat until smooth. Beat the egg whites in a clean dry bowl until stiff peaks form and then fold a little into the chocolate mixture to loosen it slightly. Gently fold in the remaining egg white, then spoon the mixture into the soufflé dish and bake for 40 minutes, or until well risen and just firm. Remove the collar, dust the souffle with icing sugar and serve immediately.

HOT CHOCOLATE SOUFFLE

175 g (6 oz) good-quality dark chocolate, chopped
5 egg yolks, lightly beaten
1/4 cup (60 g/2 oz) caster sugar
7 egg whites
icing sugar, to dust

Preheat the oven to moderately hot 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Wrap a double layer of baking paper around six 250 ml (8 fl oz) ramekins, to come 3 cm (1 1/4 inches) above the rim. Secure with string. Brush the insides with melted butter, sprinkle with caster sugar, shake to coat evenly, then tip out excess. Place on a baking tray.

Put the chocolate in a heatproof bowl. Half fill a saucepan with water and bring to the boil. Remove from the heat and place the bowl over the pan—don’t let it touch the water. Stir occasionally until the chocolate has melted. Stir in the egg yolks and sugar. Transfer the mixture to a large bowl. Beat the egg whites in a large bowl until firm peaks form.

Fold a third of the beaten egg white through the chocolate mixture to loosen it. Using a metal spoon, fold through the remaining egg white until just combined. Spoon the mixture into the ramekins and bake for 12-15 minutes, or until well risen and just set. Cut the string and remove the collars. Serve immediately, dusted lightly with the sifted icing sugar.

HOT FRUIT SOUFFLE

60 g (2 oz) unsalted butter
1/2 cup (60 g/2 oz) plain flour
1 1/2 cups (375 ml/I2 fl oz) puréed fruit
1/4 cup (60 g/2 oz) caster sugar
4 egg whites
icing sugar, to dust

Brush a 1.25 litre souffle dish with melted butter, sprinkle with caster sugar, shake to coat evenly, then tip out any excess. Preheat the oven to moderately hot 200°C (400°F/Gas 6) and put a baking tray on the top shelf to heat. Melt the butter in a saucepan, add the flour and mix well. Remove from the heat, stir until smooth, then stir in the fruit puree. Return to the heat, bring to the boil and simmer for 2 minutes. Add the sugar and stir until dissolved (taste in case it is too tart). Leave to cool.

Whisk the egg whites in a large clean bowl until soft peaks form, add 1 tablespoon to the fruit mixture and mix well. Fold in the remaining whites, being careful not to lose too much volume. Fill the soffle dish to three-quarters full and run your thumb or a knife around the inside edge to create a small gap between the souffle and the dish—this will help the souffle rise evenly. Put the souffle on the hot baking tray and bake for 20-25 minutes. Serve immediately, dusted with icing sugar. Can be served with cream.

NOTE: Suitable fruit to use are those that make a good puree, such as raspberries, strawberries, mango, peaches, apricots and passionfruit. Bananas are a little too heavy. You could use apples or plums, or dried fruit, but you’d have to cook them into a puree first.

CHILLED BERRY SOUFFLE

3 teaspoons gelatine
300 g (10 oz) raspberries
1 1/4 cups (3l5 ml/10 fl oz) cream
4 egg whites
2-3 tablespoons caster sugar

Prepare six 125 ml (4 fl oz) souffle dishes by wrapping a double strip of baking paper around the outside of each, extending 2 cm (3/4 inch) above the rim, then tying with string. Brush the collar and dish with oil or butter, sprinkle with sugar, shake to coat evenly, then tip out any excess.

Place 3 tablespoons water in a small heatproof bowl. Sprinkle evenly with the gelatine and leave to go spongy. Bring a large pan filled with about 4 cm (1 1/2 inches) water to the boil, remove from the heat and carefully lower the gelatine bowl into the water. Stir until dissolved; cool slightly. 3 Purée half the raspberries and push through a sieve. Mash the other half and mix both lots together. Fold in the cooled gelatine mixture.

Beat the cream into soft peaks. ln a separate bowl, beat the egg whites into stiff peaks. Gradually beat in 2 tablespoons of the sugar until dissolved – if the raspberries are tart, add the remaining sugar. Fold the cream into the raspberries, followed by the egg white, using a large metal spoon. Spoon into the dishes and chill for several hours, until set. Remove the collars to serve. Can be served with cream and raspberries.

ORANGE AND LEMON SOUFFLE

3 eggs, separated
1 cup (250 g/8 oz) caster sugar
2 teaspoons grated orange rind
2 teaspoons grated lemon rind
1/3 cup (80 ml/23/4fl oz) lemon juice, strained
1/3 cup (80 ml/23/4fl oz) orange juice, strained
3 teaspoons gelatine
2 1/2 cups (600 ml/20 fl oz) cream

Cut a strip of baking paper long enough to fit around a 1 litre souffle dish. Fold in half lengthways and wrap around the dish, extending 4 cm (1I/2 inches) above the rim, then secure with string. Brush the inside of the collar with melted butter or oil. Sprinkle with caster sugar, shake to coat evenly, then tip out any excess.

Combine the egg yolks, sugar, grated orange and lemon rind and lemon juice in a metal or heatproof bowl, Stir with a wooden spoon over a simmering pan of water, making sure the base of the bowl doesn’t touch the water, until the mixture becomes thick and syrupy.

Remove from the heat and stir until the mixture is cold. Pour the orange juice into a small heatproof bowl, sprinkle the gelatine in an even layer over the surface and leave to go spongy. Bring a large pan filled with about 4 cm (1 1/2 inches) water to the boil, remove from the heat, carefully lower the gelatine bowl into the water (it should come halfway up the side of the bowl), then stir until dissolved. Cool slightly, then gradually stir into the lemon mixture. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 15 minutes, or until thickened but not set. Beat the cream until thick and fold gently into the mixture. Beat the egg whites and fold into the mixture using a large metal spoon. Chill. When the soufflé is starting to set, pour or spoon it into the soufflé dish or glass serving bowl. When
completely set, remove the collar carefully and serve immediately.

CHILLED LIME SOUFFLE

5 eggs, separated
1 cup (250 g/8 oz) caster sugar.
2 teaspoons finely grated lime rind
3/4 cup (|85 ml/6 fl oz) lime juice, strained
1 tablespoon gelatine
1 1/4 cups (3 I 5 ml/10 fI oz) cream, lightly whipped

Cut four strips of baking paper or foil long enough to fit around 250 ml (8 fl oz) souflle dishes. Fold each in half lengthways, wrap one around each dish, extending 4 cm (1 1/2 inches) above the rim, then secure with string. Brush the inside of the collar with melted butter, sprinkle with caster sugar, shake to coat, then tip out excess.

Using electric beaters, beat the egg yolks, sugar and lime rind in a small bowl for 3 minutes, until the sugar has dissolved and the mixture is thick and pale. Heat the lime juice in a small pan, then gradually add to the yolk mixture while beating, until well mixed.

Pour 1/4 cup (60 ml/2 fl oz) water into a small heatproof bowl, sprinkle the gelatine in an even layer over the surface and leave to go spongy. Bring a large pan filled with about 4 cm (1 1/2 inches) water to the boil, remove from the heat, carefully lower the gelatine bowl into the water (it should come halfway up the side of the bowl), then stir until dissolved. Cool slightly, then add gradually to the lime mixture, beating on low speed until combined. Transfer to a large bowl, cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate for 15 minutes, or until thickened but not set. Using a metal spoon, fold the cream into the lime mixture until almost combined.

Using electric beaters, beat the egg whites in a clean, dry bowl until soft peaks form. Fold the egg white quickly and lightly into the lime mixture, using a large metal spoon, until just combined with no lumps of egg white remaining. Spoon gently into the soufflé dishes and chill until set. Remove the collars when ready to serve. Can be served with whipped cream.

baking with Bill & Sheila

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