Marmalade

The name marmalade is derived from a medieval Portugese preserve, marmelada, made from the quince or marmelo. In France, a fruit purée used for pie filling is known as marmelade. Quinces, which are available in many country districts in the late autumn, are still used to make marmalade.

Modern marmalade, however, is very similar to jam and, although traditionally made from Seville oranges, all the citrus fruits may be used and can be combined with more unusual ingredients such as rhubarb. Pumpkin and carrots are often used to add bulk, flavoured with a distinctive, strong fruit.

Marmalade can range in colour from thick and dark to a light, translucent appearance. The pith of bitter Seville oranges and grapefruit will clear on cooking but the pith of sweet oranges does not and so this is removed from the fruit and tied in muslin as this contains pectin. The texture of marmalade is a matter of individual taste and preference. It can range from coarse, chunky cut to finely-shredded peel or a peel-free jelly. Coarse cut peel takes longer to soften than finely shredded, but the time can be reduced by soaking the peel first in a little of the water or by cooking in a pressure cooker. Peel may be grated, minced, chopped or processed in a food processor. The peel can also be cooked and then about one-third sliced and the remainder liquidised in a little of the juice, according to taste. When experimenting with texture, it is useful to keep notes on the way the peel has been processed.

The traditional Seville orange has the finest flavour, but these have a very short season. They can, however, be stored in a freezer until required. Genuine Seville oranges have a rough, bright skin without blemishes and are deep orange-red in colour. Other bitter oranges, sometimes sold as Sevilles, have a much smoother skin. As citrus fruits are usually waxed, this coating should be removed prior to use by pouring boiling water over the fruit and scrubbing. Some supermarkets sell unwaxed fruit and this is worth looking for. All fruit should be carefully washed and dried prior to use to remove any residue of spraying, etc.

Fresh, whole frozen, or ready-pulped fruit can be used for marmalade. If using whole frozen citrus fruit an extra one-eighth weight fruit should be added to the recipe to compensate for any loss or weakening of pectin. The fruit should be cooked gently from frozen with the amount of water specified in the recipe in a tightly-lidded saucepan or pressure cooker as thawing can discolour the fruit. Alternatively, the frozen oranges can be placed in a bowl and boiling water poured over them.

They should be left to stand for ten minutes. The oranges should then be cut across into halves and the flesh scooped out with a spoon. It is possible to remove the pips very easily by gently squeezing the frozen flesh. The skin can be chopped, using a sharp knife, and the oranges should be cooked immediately in boiling water to prevent discolouration.

The pectin and acid content of fruits used for marmalade is important in order to obtain a good set. Most of the pectin in citrus fruit is in the pips and pith and these should always be used for marmalade-making. Extra acid in the form of lemon juice is added to Seville oranges (to balance the high pectin content) or other low-acid fruits and recipes should be followed carefully, with a pectin test carried out where necessary. When potting marmalade, it is important to remember that over-hot jars may cause the peel to rise.

The saucepan used for marmalade-making should ideally have a heavy ground base and really thick sides to prevent burning and be of an acid-resistant material such as stainless steel, aluminium or enamel coating as acid will react on copper, iron or brass and impair the flavour of the finished product.

Three Seasons Marmelade

Medium grapefruit 1
Lemons 2
Sweet orange 1

Water 1 1/2 -2 litres (2 ½ -3pt)
Granulated sugar 1 ½ kg (3lb)
Makes approximately 4-5 x 455g (1 ½ lb) jars
Ready t0 eat after 24 hours

Prepare the jars. Scrub all the fruit well and cut in half. Squeeze each piece and save the juice. Remove the pith from the orange and lemon skins. Remove pith from the grapefruit only if it is thick. Place the pith, pips and any blemished pieces of peel into a muslin cloth. Tie up the muslin cloth, securing it with a long piece of string.

Chop the peel into strips of the required size. Put the peel into a preserving pan, together with the muslin bag, and pour in the water and fruit juice. Simmer the contents of the pan without a lid until the peel is tender and the liquid reduced (approximately 2 hours). Once the peel is tender, test a little of the liquid for pectin. Remove the bag, squeezing it well into the pan. Then discard the bag and contents.

Pour the granulated sugar into the pan and stir well, using a wooden spoon. Continue stirring over low heat until the sugar is dissolved. Brush down the sides of the pan. Rapidly boil the contents of the pan until setting point is reached.

To test if the marmalade has reached setting point, spoon a small amount onto a chilled saucer or do a flake test. Skim the top and then pour the boiling marmalade into jars and fill to 3mm (1/8″) of brim. Immediately twist a ‘lock-on’ lid onto the jar. Wipe the outside and leave to cool. Label, date and store.

Introduction to Jam Making and Preserving
How to make Marmalade – with more than 20 recipes
Lemon Curd
Homemade Jam
Homemade Jellies
Homemade Pickles
Homemade chutney

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