The Joys of “Old” Potatoes
National Museum of American HistoryRiced potatoes, a family favorite.
Clotilde Hryshko runs a farm and CSA in a beautiful valley in Brookfield, Vt. She has written some lovely pieces that have appeared on www.markbittman.com.
Late winter weather progressed quickly to early summer temperatures last week. The roller coaster continued with below-average temperatures expected this week. Disconcerting, yes, but the warmth was enjoyable too. Concerns about early budding on fruit trees, berries and vines are real. We’ll see if sugaring is over the next time it goes above freezing. An early spring in no way decreases the chance of hard frosts. Lack of moisture from snow, soil and standing water in fields will only help to make those frosts more severe.
The warm air also invaded root cellars and basements, potentially causing storage crops to age more quickly. But whether or not the warm intrusion caused premature aging, age they will. The potatoes may soften in late April instead of late May. This only means different approaches to their use a little earlier. What I’m saying is, don’t be discouraged about buying local potatoes as the “new” ones from California arrive. You don’t need to be virtuous to enjoy them for what they are.
Ironically, as potatoes age they become firmer when cooked, losing intrinsic flakiness. They are good used in potato salad, though not the kind made for July picnics with new potatoes. These, rather, are well suited to a potato salad with warm vinaigrette. The potatoes should be thinly sliced while still warm after cooking, coated in olive oil and warm wine vinegar with whatever other additions you add. I also periodically boil some to keep in the refrigerator. They are excellent in spring salads: cubed, they maintain the soft solid stage and compliment grated beets along with the new harvest of greens.
I was reminded of a family favorite recently. The weather was too summer-like to make the planned stew. While the bread was baking, I boiled a quantity of potatoes suitable for four with leftovers. After cooking and some cooling I processed them with a potato ricer. I cut them in half to expose the middle since I cooked them with the skins on. I placed the exposed part down and pushed them through the ricer; the skin and bits of potato that are left behind make good dog treats.
Once I riced the potatoes I let them cool, then covered and refrigerated. I then use the “dried” riced potatoes to make hash browns/home fries. I start by sautéing chopped onions until soft, and then add the potatoes and seasonings (salt and pepper or curry are typical choices). Once the potatoes are warmed through I add crumbled tofu and continue to cook, covering at first to heat and uncovering to develop the crust. For four large potatoes I would add about eight ounces of crumbled tofu. The texture is surprisingly light and very satisfying.
My daughters invariably ask me what I’m cooking, to which I usually respond “slop.” Once they see the riced potatoes cooling, they each remark, “I love those.” Then they prove it by having seconds at dinner and finishing them for breakfast the next day.
The unexpected warmth means I’ll keep ice on my beets in a cooler; the potatoes will continue to do fine. Winter farmer’s markets are winding down, soon to be replaced by the community event summer market. Until then we’ll be eating these stored potatoes.
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