Cake bring back sweet memories

The back room of Party Pastry Shop in Ballwin is two parts
working bakery, one part bakery museum.

One of the industrial-scale Hobart mixers dates to about 1930,
another even earlier. A heavy metal press that forms dough into a
rope and divides it into 36 equal pieces is stamped with the
manufacturer’s name, “Dutchess,” and a patent date of 1916. A much
smaller device, which looks a bit like a garlic press — except six
times bigger and with scary metal teeth — pits and slices Italian
plums.

All are still operational, as is almost everything, old and new,
scattered about the baking area. But owner Chris Leuther doesn’t
limit his collecting to mechanical devices. On top of a line of
metal storage drawers is a stack of tattered binders housing note
cards slipped inside overlapping plastic sleeves, so yellowed that
they’re almost opaque.

“This is the holy grail,” Leuther says. “All the recipes from
Lake Forest.”

Lake Forest Pastry Shop was one of St. Louis’ most cherished
bakeries, sweetening the lives of generations of locals during
almost 70 years in business at 7737 Clayton Road in Clayton. A
second location was on Telegraph Road in south St. Louis County.
The bakery closed in 2003.

“When they shut down, they auctioned the place off,” Leuther
says. “These were in a Dumpster in the back. They eventually made
their way to me.”

During a career spanning more than 30 years, Leuther, 49, has
worked in several local bakeries, including Lake Forest. He and his
wife, Vickey, have had their own bakery for about 18 years,
operating Brick Oven Pastries in Fenton before purchasing Party
Pastry Shop in 2005.

Throughout his career, Leuther has collected baking recipes, or
“formulas,” as they’re known in the trade. As a teenager he
befriended Frank Fresenberg, who operated Fresenberg’s Bakery in
south St. Louis from the 1950s until the 1970s. Fresenberg had been
head baker at Warner-Noll Bakery and gave Leuther a collection of
hand-written recipe cards from Warner-Noll.

More recently, Leuther found some sheet pans embossed with the
Warner-Noll name and put them into use at Party Pastry Shop.

Leuther also has recipes from the old Grau Bakery in St. Louis
Hills, and he’s picked up small collections of recipes from other
local bakeries in various old booklets that were put together for
baking conventions or organizations.

One of these wasn’t much more than a stack of loose-leaf pages
from the 1960s that included notes and recipes from an organization
called the St. Louis Bakers Dozen. A typewritten page with a list
of 11 of its 13 members shows its age by the use of the old
two-letter, shortened word prefixes instead of all-numeric phone
numbers (PA5-, standing for PArkview5-, instead of 725-, for
example). The names of three members – Don McArthur, Ed Lubeley and
William Seibold – are still attached to area bakeries.

Leuther has incorporated several products based on Lake Forest
recipes into his retail offerings, including apple rings, various
butter cookies and gooey butter cake.

When people find out about Leuther’s extensive cake recipe
collection, they frequently ask for home versions. The first
problem with this is the extensive effort involved in scaling down
recipes that make dozens of cakes. In addition, some bakery
ingredients — especially from older recipes — don’t have easy
matches from home pantries.

And then there’s the issue of reproducing a fond memory.

“I’ve worked in a lot of bakeries and talked to a lot of bakers,
and when it comes right down to it, so many of these places worked
from almost exactly the same formula,” Leuther says. “One guy would
use more pecans and another would use less pecans, and they’d tweak
it just a little bit, but a lot of times different places made
exactly the same cake. It seemed special because it made a special
memory – but that’s all it is, a memory.”

Party Pastry’s back room fires up every day about 4 a.m. and
doesn’t let up until 6 p.m. Leuther is there for most of those
hours, and when he isn’t in the bakery, he’s frequently making
deliveries.

While he’s away, however, another of his acquisitions stands in
for him. A statue of a roly-poly baker dating from the 1950s – with
trays for product display and a speaker in his head to voice a
re-recordable marketing message to passers-by – is perched atop the
drop ceiling above Leuther’s tiny office.

“I call him the taskmaster,” Leuther jokes. “He watches over
everything while I’m gone.”

Chiffon Cheesecake (Old St. Louis Bakery Style)

Yield: 8 to 10 servings

For the crust:

2 cups graham cracker crumbs

1/4 cup granulated sugar

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, melted, plus more for
the pan

For the cake:

1 (16-ounce) tub small-curd cottage cheese, drained for 1 hour
in a fine-mesh strainer

1/4 cup vegetable oil

2 eggs

1/2 cup plus 5 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided

2 tablespoons dry milk powder

1/4 cup all-purpose flour

4 teaspoons cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

1 tablespoon lemon juice

2 tablespoons boiling water, plus more for water bath

2 tablespoons buttermilk

5 egg whites

1. Make the crust. In a medium bowl, stir together graham
cracker crumbs, 1/4 cup sugar and melted butter. Butter the inside
of a 9-inch springform pan. Spread the crumb mixture evenly in the
bottom of the pan, pushing it up the sides about 1 inch.

2. Wrap the bottom and sides of the pan in a sheet of wide,
heavy-duty aluminum foil or a double layer of regular-weight foil.
Put the pan in the refrigerator. Bring a kettle of water to a boil.
Preheat the oven to 350 degrees.

3. Make the filling. Press on the cottage cheese with a wooden
spoon, pressing as much liquid as possible through the strainer.
Combine drained cheese, oil and whole eggs in a blender container.
Pulse the blender on medium until the cheese mixture is smooth.
Scrape the mixture into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a
paddle.

4. In a small bowl, stir together 1/2 cup sugar, milk powder,
flour, cornstarch and salt. Add the dry ingredients to the cheese
mixture; beat on the lowest speed to combine. Scrape down the
bowl.

5. With the mixer running on the lowest speed, add vanilla and
lemon juice. Add boiling water in a slow stream, mixing until
smooth. Still mixing, add buttermilk in a slow stream. When the
mixture looks smooth again, stop and scrape the bowl, then give it
one final mix. Scrape the mixture into a large mixing bowl and set
aside.

6. Place the egg whites in a clean mixer bowl. Using the whisk
attachment, beat the egg whites on medium-high speed just until the
whisk begins to leave visible “tracks” in the foam and the whites
no longer slosh around in the bowl. Reduce the speed to medium; in
a slow stream, add the remaining 5 tablespoons sugar. Continue to
beat until the whites are shiny and hold a stiff peak. Do not
overbeat.

7. Scrape the egg whites onto the cheese mixture. Gently fold
together until no visible streaks remain. Repeatedly scrape up from
the bottom of the bowl so that all of the ingredients are
thoroughly combined.

8. Scrape the batter into the prepared, foil-wrapped pan. Place
a larger roasting pan on the middle oven rack. Place the springform
pan into the roasting pan. Pour boiling water 1-inch deep into the
roasting pan, forming a hot-water bath. Bake for about 1 hour,
until cake is set and golden brown.

9. Remove the springform pan from the water. Remove the foil. To
help prevent cracking, run a sharp knife around the very top edge
of the cake. Cool the cake, in the pan, on a wire rack. When
completely cool, run a small sharp knife around the inside of the
pan before releasing the spring.

Per serving (based on 10): 355 calories; 17g fat; 7g saturated
fat; 70mg cholesterol; 9g protein; 41g carbohydrate; 29g sugar;
0.5g fiber; 410mg sodium; 55mg calcium.

Chiffon Champagne Cake (Old St. Louis Bakery Style)

Yield: 8 servings

3/4 cup cake flour

3/4 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

10 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided

3 tablespoons vegetable oil

3 egg yolks

1/4 cup water

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

3 egg whites

1 pinch cream of tartar

Rum-Scented Vanilla Icing (see recipe)

Pink, silver or gold dragées or sugar pearls (see note)

1. Butter a 9-inch-round cake pan and line the bottom with a
piece of parchment paper cut to fit. Preheat the oven to 325
degrees. Sift cake flour into the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with
the paddle attachment. Add baking powder, salt and 5 tablespoons
sugar. Stir on lowest speed to mix.

2. Add oil, egg yolks, water and vanilla; stir on lowest speed
until just combined. Increase speed to medium and beat until
smooth, about 2 minutes. Scrape down bowl and beat an additional 20
seconds to combine. Transfer mixture to a large mixing bowl and set
aside.

3. Place egg whites in a clean mixer bowl and add cream of
tartar. Using the whisk attachment, beat on medium-high speed just
until the whisk begins to leave visible “tracks” in the foam and
the whites no longer slosh around in the bowl.

4. Reduce the speed to medium; in a slow stream, add the
remaining 5 tablespoons sugar. Continue to beat until the whites
are shiny and hold a stiff peak. Do not overbeat.

5. With a rubber spatula, gently stir a few dollops of the
whipped egg whites into the flour mixture to loosen it. Scrape the
remaining egg whites onto the flour mixture and gently fold the two
together until no visible streaks remain. Repeatedly scrape up from
the bottom of the bowl so that all of the ingredients are
thoroughly combined.

6. Scrape the batter into the prepared pan, smooth the top, and
bake until golden, well-risen and firm, about 35 to 45 minutes.

7. Place the pan upside down on a rack and let cool completely.
When the cake is cold, run a sharp knife around the edge of the
cake to release it from the pan.

8. Remove the parchment paper from the bottom of the cake. Split
the cake into two layers with a serrated bread knife.

9. Spread some icing 1/4-inch thick on one of the layers. Stack
with the other layer, and cover the top and sides of the cake with
the remaining icing. Press dragées all over the cake as a
garnish.

Per serving (with icing): 445 calories; 29g fat; 15g saturated
fat; 230mg cholesterol; 7g protein; 39g carbohydrate; 27g sugar; no
fiber; 190mg sodium; 95mg calcium.

Note: This cake is not made with champagne – the name refers to
the tiny champagne bubble-like balls sprinkled on top as
decoration. We used Wilton’s pearlized pink sprinkles, sold in
stores that carry cake-decorating supplies.

Rum-Scented Vanilla Icing

Yield: Icing for 1 (9-inch) cake

1 cup whole milk, divided

2 tablespoons cornstarch

1 egg

2 egg yolks

6 tablespoons granulated sugar

2 tablespoons unsalted butter

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

11/2 cups heavy cream

1/2 to 1 teaspoon rum extract

1 or 2 drops red or pink food coloring (optional)

1. Pour a scant 1/4 cup milk into a medium heatproof bowl. Add
cornstarch; stir until it dissolves. Add whole egg and yolks. Whisk
well to combine, then set aside.

2. Combine the remaining generous 3/4 cup milk and sugar in a
saucepan; bring to a simmer, stirring frequently. While whisking
the egg mixture, pour in the hot milk in a slow stream. When all of
the milk has been added, pass the mixture through a fine strainer
into the saucepan.

3. Cook over medium heat, whisking continuously (see tip), until
the mixture comes to a boil and thickens. This will take only a few
minutes.

4. Remove from the heat and immediately whisk in butter and
vanilla until the custard is smooth.

5. Scrape the hot custard into a nonreactive bowl. Place plastic
wrap directly against the surface of the custard; refrigerate until
cold.

6. When you are ready to ice the cake, use a stand mixer with
the whisk attachment on medium speed to whip the cream just to
stiff peaks. Be careful not to overwhip.

7. Transfer the cold custard to a mixing bowl; stir in rum
extract to taste. With a rubber spatula, stir in the optional food
coloring and a few dollops of whipped cream to loosen the custard.
Scrape the remaining whipped cream onto the custard and fold the
two together until no visible streaks remain.

Per serving (based on 8): 265 calories; 22g fat; 13g saturated
fat; 150mg cholesterol; 3g protein; 14g carbohydrate; 11g sugar; no
fiber; 40mg sodium; 75mg calcium.

Tip: To prevent scorching, whisk the custard back and forth
rather than in a circular motion.

Angel Food Cake (Old St. Louis Bakery Style)

Yield: 10 servings

11/4 cups granulated sugar, divided

3/4 cup powdered sugar

1 cup cake flour

11/2 teaspoons cornstarch

1/2 teaspoon salt

12 egg whites

11/2 teaspoons cream of tartar

11/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon almond extract

1. Sift together 1/4 cup granulated sugar, powdered sugar, cake
flour, cornstarch and salt, then sift mixture again twice. Set
aside. Set a rack in the middle of the oven and preheat to 350
degrees.

2. Place egg whites in a clean mixer bowl; add cream of tartar.
Using the whisk attachment of a stand mixer, beat on medium-high
speed just until the whisk begins to leave visible “tracks” in the
foam and the whites no longer slosh around in the bowl. Reduce the
speed to medium; add the remaining 1 cup sugar in a slow stream.
Add vanilla and almond extracts. Continue to beat until the whites
are shiny and hold a firm peak. Do not overbeat.

3. With a rubber spatula, carefully transfer the whipped egg
whites to a large mixing bowl, taking care not press down on the
foam and deflate it. Spread one-third of the flour mixture over the
egg whites and gently fold it in. Repeatedly scrape up from the
bottom of the bowl so that all of the ingredients are combined.
When the dry ingredients are almost incorporated, stop and spread
another third of the flour mixture over the egg whites. Fold as
before, gently incorporating the dry ingredients into the foam.
Repeat with the remaining dry ingredients, folding until no visible
powder remains.

4. Gently scrape the batter into an ungreased 10-inch angel food
pan (do not use a nonstick pan). Using a knife, cut through the
batter all around (this helps remove large air bubbles). Bake on
the middle oven rack until lightly golden, well-risen and springy
to the touch, about 35 to 40 minutes. Cool cake in the pan upside
down on a rack. When the cake is cold, run a sharp knife around the
edges of the cake to release it from the pan.

Per serving: 195 calories; no fat; 5g protein; 44g carbohydrate;
35g sugar; no fiber; 185mg sodium; 5mg calcium.

Gooey Butter Cake

(Old St. Louis Bakery Style)

Yield: 2 cakes; 16 to 18 servings

For the sweet dough:

1/4 cup whole milk

2 teaspoons active dry yeast

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature,
plus more for pan

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

3/4 teaspoon salt

1 egg

13/4 cups all-purpose flour

For the filling:

3/4 cup (11/2 sticks) butter, softened

11/2 cups granulated sugar

1/2 teaspoon salt

1/4 cup light corn syrup

11/2 teaspoons vanilla extract

2 eggs, at room temperature

1/4 cup whole milk, at room temperature

1 cup cake flour

Powdered sugar, for dusting

1. Make the dough. Heat 1/4 cup milk until barely lukewarm,
about 100 degrees. Put milk in a small bowl; sprinkle yeast evenly
over milk. Let sit for 5 minutes, then stir to dissolve. Set
aside.

2. In the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a paddle attachment,
beat 6 tablespoons butter, 3 tablespoons sugar and 3/4 teaspoon
salt on medium speed until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes. Add 1
egg and beat until incorporated, 1 to 2 minutes. Scrape down the
bowl.

3. Add all-purpose flour in three additions and the milk mixture
in two additions, beginning and ending with the flour. Be sure to
scrape the bowl of the milk mixture so that all yeast transfers to
the dough. After each addition, beat on the slowest speed to
combine, scraping the bowl occasionally. After the final portion of
flour has been incorporated, increase the speed to medium-low and
beat for 5 minutes or until dough is smooth and slightly
elastic.

4. Butter two 8-inch-square pans or two 9-inch-round pans; and
press and stretch the dough into the pans. (If the dough resists
stretching, covering the pan and allowing the dough to rest for 15
minutes or so should help.) Cover loosely with plastic wrap and
allow the dough to rise for 2 hours.

5. Make the filling. Shortly before the dough is done rising,
combine 3/4 cup butter, 11/2 cups sugar, 1/2 teaspoon salt and corn
syrup in the bowl of a mixer fitted with the paddle attachment.
Beat on medium speed until light, about 3 minutes.

6. Scrape down the bowl; add the vanilla extract and 1 egg. Beat
until combined, then beat in the remaining egg. Add 1/4 cup milk
and cake flour and mix to combine on low speed. Scrape down the
bowl and give the mixture a final stir.

7. When the dough is done rising, preheat the oven to 350
degrees. Cover the dough with dollops of topping, dividing evenly
between cakes. Spread topping almost to the edges. Bake for about
20 to 25 minutes, until topping is crisp and golden brown. (Topping
will melt and spread as it bakes.)

8. Let cake cool in the pans on a rack. Sprinkle with powdered
sugar just before cutting and serving.

Per serving (based on 18): 275 calories; 13g fat; 8g saturated
fat; 65mg cholesterol; 3g protein; 37g carbohydrate; 21g sugar;
0.5g fiber; 180mg sodium; 20mg calcium.

baking with Bill & Sheila
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