Recipes: Chock-Full of Love ( but Gluten Free )
View full sizeDietician Erin Jaquin Harrigan shows the variety of baked goods that can be gluten free.
My heart always skips a beat as I tuck my home-baked Valentine treats into pretty little packages. I love this annual baking ritual, but lately — as more and more people go gluten free — I worry my Valentines might be rejected.
For most bakers, it’s hard to imagine baking without gluten, the signature protein in wheat. Gluten is what makes dough chewy, elastic, irresistible. It helps baked goods rise and hold their shape.
But in a growing number of people, gluten is linked to symptoms such as migraines, irritability and gastric distress — not the reactions we hope to evoke with our Valentines.
I recently shared this dilemma with my niece, Erin Jaquin Harrigan. Her profession is nutrition, but her passion is baking. Because she and one of her four children are sensitive to gluten, everything she bakes is gluten-free.
When Erin bakes for family gatherings, her cookies and cupcakes disappear in a flash — not because they’re gluten free, but because they look, and taste, delicious.
Can she help us bake gluten free Valentine sweets with the same appeal as the gluten-packed versions we know and love?
Absolutely, she said; she often helps initiate newcomers to a gluten free lifestyle. “At first there’s a bit of a learning curve. But before you know it, it’s second nature.”
When baking without gluten, she explains, the challenge is finding the ideal substitute for wheat flour.
“All kinds of grains can be ground into flour, as well as rice, beans, corn, nuts, coconut, you name it,” she said. “Just walk down the gluten free aisle at the grocery store. You’ll be amazed at the different varieties of flour.”
In the past few years, Erin has experimented with dozens of flours and flour blends and discovered that they vary tremendously in taste, texture and behavior.
Successful baking is about chemistry, she explains: understanding how the ingredients react to one another and to changes in temperature. With gluten free baking, it’s a whole new challenge.
“I’m always amazed when a recipe calls for gluten free flour but doesn’t specify exactly which flour,” she said. “There are so many variables.
“For instance, I find the flavor of garbanzo flour overpowering,” she said. “It’s very nutritious, but I don’t want my cookies to taste like beans.
“Quinoa flour makes baked goods moist and tender, but I can still detect its taste. In gluten free baking, my goal is to replicate, as closely as possible, the taste and texture I remember in recipes with wheat flour.”
Erin’s ideal gluten free baking flour is her own blend of brown rice flour, white rice flour, tapioca starch, cornstarch and potato starch.
“But buying, mixing and storing all those ingredients might be too complicated if you don’t routinely bake gluten free,” she said.
She’s also had good results with a three-flour blend — of finely ground brown rice flour, tapioca starch and potato starch — from the cookbook “Gluten Free Baking Classics” by Annalise G. Roberts.
An even easier solution is to use a commercial blend of gluten free flours.
Erin has had the best results from C4C, a product developed by Thomas Keller, creator of such stellar restaurants as The French Laundry and Per Se.
“The C4C blend is designed to use, cup for cup, in your regular baking recipes,” she said. It’s sold through Williams-Sonoma. “At $19.95 for 3 pounds, the price sounds steep. But you could easily spend that on the initial ingredients for your own blend.”
Because gluten plays a critical role in the texture of baked goods, gluten free baking requires the addition of a thickener, such as xanthan gum or guar gum.
“You only use a teaspoon or two,” she said. “And unlike many gluten free flours, these thickeners have a long shelf life.”
Erin adds that some commercial gluten free flour blends, such as C4C, already include xanthan gum.
“When baking gluten free, it’s very important to read the label on every ingredient,” she said. “Some flours may be cross-contaminated with wheat flour. Items such as vanilla, cocoa or baking powder may have small amounts of gluten, which is used to thicken or stabilize many processed foods.”
If a person who is sensitive to gluten is unwittingly exposed to the protein, the outcome may be unpleasant, but tolerable. If you have celiac disease, even a trace of gluten can be dangerous.
The good news is that, with a little extra effort by the baker, no one has to be deprived of home-baked Valentines.
“Gluten-free baking is a true labor of love,” Erin said.
RECIPES
Triple Chocolate Cookies
From Erin Jaquin Harrigan
2 cups gluten free flour blend (see separate recipe for creating your own blend; also see note below)
½ cup unsweetened cocoa powder (gluten-free)
1 teaspoon xanthan or guar gum
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon baking soda
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup granulated sugar
1 cup packed light-brown sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract (gluten-free)
2 cups semisweet chocolate chips
2 (1.55 ounce) Hershey milk chocolate bars, chopped
Preheat oven to 375 degrees.
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour blend, cocoa powder, xanthan or guar gum, salt and baking soda. Set aside.
In a large mixing bowl, place butter, granulated sugar and brown sugar. Using an electric mixer on medium speed, cream together until light and fluffy, about 3 minutes.
One at a time, add eggs to the creamed mixture. Blend in vanilla. Gradually add the dry ingredients and mix until well blended. Fold in the chocolate chips and chopped milk chocolate.
Using a tablespoon or ice-cream scoop, form cookies and place onto ungreased cookie sheets, with 12 cookies per sheet. Bake for 8 to 10 minutes, until centers are firm.
Allow cookies to cool slightly, then transfer to a rack to cool. Store in an airtight container. Makes about 36 cookies.
Notes:
1. When using a commercial gluten-free flour blend, check to see whether xanthan gum or guar gum is included in the mix. If so, there is no need to add the amount listed in the recipe.
2. Chocolate is a master of disguise in gluten free baking. Its robust flavor helps mask the taste of assertive flours and compensates for the transparent taste of starches.
Gluten Free Flour Blend
From “Gluten-Free Baking Classics” by Annalise G. Roberts
4 cups brown rice flour, ground extra fine (Authentic Foods brand recommended)
1 1/3 cups potato starch (not potato flour)
2/3 cup tapioca flour (also called tapioca starch)
Measure the ingredients into a large, lidded plastic container, cover and shake vigorously to combine.
Gluten free flour blend may be stored, covered, at room temperature, for up to 4 months. Before baking with gluten free flour blend that has been stored, shake vigorously. Spoon — do not scoop — into measuring cup. Level top of flour with a knife blade, returning excess to storage container.
Chocolate Cupcakes With Chocolate Frosting
From Erin Jaquin Harrigan
1/3 cup unsweetened cocoa powder (gluten free)
3 ounces semisweet chocolate, chopped
2/3 cups milk
2 cups gluten-free flour blend (see separate recipe for creating your own blend; also see note below)
2 teaspoons xanthan or guar gum
2 teaspoons baking soda
¼ teaspoon salt
½ cup oil (vegetable or canola)
1½ cups granulated sugar
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract (gluten-free)
3 large eggs
6 ounces plain yogurt
Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Place cupcake liners into muffin tins and set aside.
Place cocoa powder and chopped chocolate in a small, heat-proof bowl. In a small saucepan, warm the milk over medium heat until bubbles form around edges. Pour warm milk over cocoa and chocolate. Stir until chocolate is melted and mixture is smooth. Set aside to cool.
In a small bowl, whisk together the flour blend, xanthan or guar gum, baking soda and salt.
In a large bowl, mix together the oil, sugar, vanilla, eggs and yogurt. Gradually stir in the dry ingredients. Stir in the chocolate mixture until well-blended.
Fill muffin cups 2/3 full and bake for 16 to 18 minutes, or until a toothpick inserted into the center comes out clean. Set aside to cool.
Frost cupcakes with chocolate frosting (see separate recipe). Makes about 18 cupcakes.
Note: When using a commercial gluten free flour blend, check to see whether xanthan gum or guar gum is included in the mix. If so, there is no need to add the amount listed in the recipe.
Chocolate Frosting
From Erin Jaquin Harrigan
4 ounces chopped semisweet chocolate
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3 cups powdered sugar, sifted
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract (gluten free)
¼ teaspoon salt
Put chocolate in a heat-proof bowl and place over a pan of simmering water. Stir until chocolate melts. Set aside to cool.
Place butter in a large bowl. With an electric mixer on medium-high speed, beat butter for about 3 minutes, until light and fluffy. Gradually blend in the powdered sugar. Add the vanilla and salt and blend well.
Add the cooled chocolate. Mix until thoroughly blended.
Transfer frosting to a pastry bag with a large tip and pipe onto cupcakes.
Aunt Sharon’s Sugar Cookies
From Erin Jaquin Harrigan
5 cups gluten free flour blend (see separate recipe for creating your own blend; also see note below)
1 cup powdered sugar, sifted
2 teaspoons xanthan gum or guar gum
1 teaspoon baking soda
1 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon cream of tartar (gluten free)
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
1 cup vegetable shortening (such as Crisco)
1 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs, at room temperature
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract (gluten free)
1 teaspoon pure almond extract (gluten free)
In a medium bowl, whisk together the flour blend, powdered sugar, xanthan or guar gum, baking soda, salt and cream of tartar. Set aside.
In a large bowl, cream the butter, shortening and sugar with an electric mixer until well-blended. Add the eggs, 1 at a time. Mix in the vanilla and almond extracts.
Gradually add dry ingredients and mix until evenly incorporated into the dough.
Divide the dough evenly into 3 sections. Roll each into a ball and flatten slightly into a disc. Wrap each disc in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, preferably longer.
When ready to cut out cookies, preheat oven to 350 degrees.
On a lightly floured surface, working with 1 disc at a time, roll out dough to ¼-inch thickness. Cut into shapes with cookie cutters. Transfer to ungreased cookie sheets and bake for about 10 minutes, until cookies are firm and edges are very lightly browned.
Transfer cookies to a rack to cool. Frost with buttercream icing (see separate recipe). If desired, sprinkle with decorative sugar.
Makes about 6 dozen cookies.
Note: When using a commercial gluten free flour blend, check to see whether xanthan gum or guar gum is included in the mix. If so, there is no need to add the amount listed in the recipe.
Easy Buttercream Frosting
From Erin Jaquin Harrigan
8 ounces (2 sticks) unsalted butter, at room temperature
3½ cups powdered sugar, sifted
2 teaspoons pure vanilla extract (gluten-free)
¼ teaspoon salt
2 to 4 tablespoons milk or heavy cream, divided
Place butter in a large bowl and beat with an electric mixer at medium speed for about 2 minutes until fluffy. Reduce mixer speed and gradually add powdered sugar, blending until smooth.
Increase speed to medium and add vanilla, salt and 2 tablespoons milk or cream.
Continue to beat for about 2 minutes, until mixture is very creamy.
If a softer consistency is desired, add 2 more tablespoons of milk or cream.
Tint frosting with food coloring, if desired.
Denise Owen Harrigan also writes restaurant reviews for Weekend magazine in Thursday’s Post-Standard. Her last story for the CNY Food Drink section was on fruit-and-vegetable smoothies.
Gluten free Recipes with Bill & Sheila
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