Local ice wine: special product of WNY? winters

The largest producers of ice wine (also written as icewine or eiswein) are Canada and Germany, but here in Chautauqua County, some of our local wineries produce this specialty beverage.

Local products have won medals in various competitions and some are highly rated by the Beverage Testing Institute. Intensely sweet and relatively expensive, this delicacy is best sipped and savored in small quantities.

Federal regulations from the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms (ATF) govern what may be labeled ice wine in the United States.

In a ruling handed down in 2002, the AFT wrote, “Wine made from grapes frozen after harvest may not be labeled with the term ‘ice wine’ or any variation thereof, and if the wine is labeled to suggest it was made from frozen grapes, the label must be qualified to show that the grapes were frozen post-harvest.”

The freezing of the grapes on the vine and then the subsequent harvest can be a gamble.

This year, for example, because of the mild winter there was a small window of opportunity for harvesting the frozen grapes. They were harvested in early January, which is later than usual. This uncertainty along with the labor-intensive production and the smaller quantities that are produced account for the product’s higher price.

At times, locally produced ice wine may be a challenge to find. Brenda Johnson, an employee of O’Malia’s Liquor Store at the D F Plaza, recently said none of the Chautauqua County brands was in stock.

She said, “Many people came in during the Christmas season and were disappointed.”

Brian Wojcinski, manager of Main Wines Spirits on Fourth Street in Dunkirk said that the store had some local ice wine in stock.

A suggestion for those interested in making a purchase is to check with the wineries themselves, most of which sell their product on site.

Fred Johnson of Johnson Estates Winery in Westfield, the oldest estate winery in Chautauqua County, explained. “Ice wine production per acre is about one-sixth of the amount of regular production. Half as many grapes are available once frozen and only a third the amount of juice is produced (from these grapes).”

Johnson explained that he did have good conditions during the first week of January. He called it “one little window of opportunity.” About 25 people from the area worked hard to get the grapes in during this time.

“Farmers help each other out,” he said.

Johnson Estates Winery produces both Chambourcin (red) and Vidal blanc (white) ice wine and has both available.

Kristopher Kane is the winemaker at 21 Brix, Chautauqua County’s newest winery which opened in September 2011. Kane and his family own and operate this venture. Kane has also worked as the wine maker at Presque Isle in North East, Pa., for the last five years and has produced ice wine there.

He said, “Patience is a virtue in the wine industry.” He explained that making ice wine is a six to eight month process once the grapes are harvested.

Noiret, a red ice wine, is available at 21 Brix. Because he was able to take advantage of the same window of opportunity Johnson mentioned, he harvested and pressed good quality grapes. This summer Vidal (white) ice wine will be available as well as the Noiret. Currently, the juice is in cold storage. When pressed, the juice of the vidal grapes tested 40 on the Brix scale, which is very sweet.

Garrett Morgan, the winemaker at Sparkling Ponds Winery in Ripley, was pleased to have gotten grapes harvested. He said, “I realized it was 14 to 18 degrees (Fahrenheit). This year there was a very small window.”

He was excited to explain that he is able to produce a limited amount of an ice wine using Catawba grapes. This ice wine, called Ice Catawba, is a very light pink, and is different from the red and white ice wines.

Mazza Winery in Mayville also produces an ice wine called Vidal Blanc (white) which is highly rated.

Jason Merritt, winemaker at Merritt Winery in Forestville, at this time is not certain whether they will produce an ice wine this year. Merritt called ice wine a “niche market.”

He said that he still has that option open. In 1992, the company decided to concentrate on making wine instead of trying to do both farming and winemaking. Now instead of producing his own fruit, he buys it within New York state.

Merritt explained that a wine resembling ice wine can be produced cryogenically. That means that the grapes are frozen after harvest. One of his very popular wines, Bella Rosa Ice, which uses Concord grapes is produced this way. Merritt said his winery has produced wines using both processes.

A website with information about many of the wineries in this area is www.lake-erie-wine-trail.com.

Comments on this article may be directed to [email protected]

Bill & Sheila’s Wine

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