V For Veg: Feed a cold with chicken-free soup

WINTER’S a great time for soup, if only because it’s a great time for catching a cold. And what’s better for restoring health than venerable chicken noodle soup?
That ancient folk remedy is so well-known that science eventually weighed in on its mysterious power. Two get-better benefits were established: The steam from the hot broth helps to decongest; and the antioxidants in veggie-rich soups boost the immune system. Sorry, no chicken-specific gain was found.

Soups are a great opportunity to work in more plant-based meals, especially at this time of year. The big-pot-of-liquid medium is easy and forgiving for beginner chefs – a “melting pot” of diverse elements with room to experiment and even to excel.

And it is possible to make a pretty good “chicken noodle soup” with no chicken. White Wave has a widely available chicken-style seitan (best torn, rather than cut, into small pieces), and Imagine’s “No-Chicken Broth” is custom-made for this purpose. For extra verisimilitude, add a dash of turmeric and a tablespoon of oil near the end for that signature yellowish sheen. The appearance just might be close enough to trigger chicken soup’s placebo effect!

But aping an iconic soup is not necessary: Try your own combos with root veggies, rice or noodles and perhaps more garlic than you think is advisable. Soups showcasing three or four kinds of beans are easy to get right. And chili, to which you can add fake ground beef or not, also works beautifully in a plant-based version.

What about cream soups? You can get most of the way there simply by using unflavored soy milk, or your favorite plant milk (if you know them well – rice milk, for instance, won’t “creamy” it up). Add a little trans-fat-free margarine for a buttery hint. If you have a blender, strengthen the soy milk’s creaminess by thickening with boiled potatoes or avocado.

Want to start out with a hard-and-fast recipe and branch out from there? There’s one posted on this page, from Ann Gentry’s Vegan Family Meals (Andrews McMeel). Her cookbook is filled with hearty and hearth-warming selections perfect for cozy winter enjoyment.

Lastly, if you’re already making a vegetable soup, let’s get over the concept that beef or chicken stock is required to make it “taste better.” With sickness, the placebo effect can help; with flavors, it may just get in your way of tasting what’s there.

Come on, let veggie soups be veggie! It’s a cause I can get behind, and I would be outside with a placard even now . . . if I didn’t have this nice, warm, soothing bowl of soup to finish.

Mock Mock Oyster Soup

Art Scott of Folsom shared his recipe for the soup he makes for his family every year at Thanksgiving on vacation in Destin, with 2 gallons of oysters. He calls it Mock Mock Oyster soup: In other words, the real thing. This makes enough for 40 people, with some left over.

Makes 40 servings
2 gallons oysters
4 cups oyster liquor
2 quarts heavy whipping cream
1/2 cup olive oil
4 large yellow onions, minced
1 head celery, chopped
6 tablespoons minced garlic
2 bunches cilantro, chopped
8 cans Campbell’s cream of mushroom soup
2 tablespoons Zatarain’s concentrated liquid crab boil
3 tablespoons sugar
16 ounce package mushrooms, sliced

Liquefy 1 gallon of oysters in a blender or food processor. Warm oyster liquor gently and combine in a large container with cream and liquefied oysters. Blend gently.

In a 16-quart pot, heat olive oil and sauté onions, garlic and celery. Add oyster-cream mixture to pot, then add all other ingredients except mushrooms and whole oysters.

Simmer for 1 hour. Gently heat the remaining gallon of oysters to warm. (This will prevent the cream from curdling when oysters are added to the soup.)

Add warmed, whole oysters and sliced mushrooms and return soup to a boil. About 25 minutes after the oysters are added, and 2 or 3 minutes after the soup returns to a boil, the edges of the oysters will begin to curl. Remove from heat. (If oysters are allowed to boil for an extended period, they become tough and the flavour is diminished.)

Oyster and Fennel Soup

High Hat Cafe has been serving this irresistible soup since this year’s oyster season started. Chef Jeremy Wolgamott shared the recipe.

1-1/2 cups diced onion
1-1/2 cups diced fennel, plus chopped fennel greens for garnish
1 cup diced carrots
2 tablespoons butter
1/2 ounce Herbsaint liquor
2 tablespoons flour
1/2 bunch mustard greens, cut into ribbons
1 quart oyster liquor
1/8 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon water
2 cups milk
1/2 cup heavy cream
3/4 teaspoon hot sauce
Salt and pepper to taste
24 fresh oysters, broiled just until edges curl
1 cup diced cooked slab bacon
Sliced green onions

In a large saucepan, sweat onion, fennel and carrots until onions start to turn clear. Add butter and Herbsaint. When butter is melted, stir in flour and cook 5 minutes. Add oyster liquor and baking soda dissolved in the water. Add mustard greens and bring to a boil. Boil 10 minutes and then turn down to a simmer.

In a separate pot, heat milk and cream until almost boiling, then add to the soup. Do not boil the soup once the milk is in. Continue to simmer 10 more minutes. Season with hot sauce and salt and black pepper to taste, then serve immediately. Garnish each bowl with broiled oysters, bacon, sliced green onions and a pinch of the fennel greens.

Red Cabbage and Apple Soup

This is a sweet and spicy winter soup, inspired by a classic red cabbage and apple braise. The yogurt is important here; it enriches the soup at the end. You could also use fat-free sour cream.

2 tablespoons canola oil or unsalted butter
1 medium onion, chopped
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon or 1 3-inch cinnamon stick
1/2 teaspoon ground allspice
1/4 teaspoon ground cloves
1/2 teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
2 pounds red cabbage, cored and shredded (1 medium head)
Salt to taste
7 cups water
1 tablespoon clover honey or other mild honey
4 tart apples, like Granny Smith or Pink Lady
1 to 3 tablespoons fresh lemon juice (to taste)
Freshly ground pepper
1 cup thick Greek-style plain low-fat yogurt

1. Heat the oil or butter over medium heat in a heavy soup pot and add the onion. Cook, stirring often, until it begins to soften, about 3 minutes. Add the spices and stir together for another few minutes, until the onion is tender. Stir in the cabbage and a generous pinch of salt and cook, stirring, until the cabbage is limp, about 5 minutes. Add the water, honey and salt to taste and bring to a boil. Reduce the heat, cover and simmer over low heat for 30 minutes.

2. Meanwhile, prepare the apples. Core one of them and slice it very thin. Place slices in a bowl of water acidulated with 1 tablespoon of the lemon juice and set aside. Core and either dice or slice the remaining apples. Add them to the soup, cover and continue to simmer for another 20 to 30 minutes, until the apples are tender and the soup is sweet and fragrant. Add pepper to taste, and adjust salt. Stir in the lemon juice. Serve, topping each bowl with a generous spoonful of yogurt and a few slices of apple.

Yield: 6 to 8 servings.
Advance preparation: This will keep for 3 or 4 days in the refrigerator. You may want to add more water.

Nutritional information per serving: 189 calories; 1 gram saturated fat; 1 gram polyunsaturated fat; 3 grams monounsaturated fat; 3 milligrams cholesterol; 33 grams carbohydrates; 8 grams dietary fiber; 51 milligrams sodium (does not include salt to taste); 6 grams protein

Quick lentil soup makes a warm, nourishing supper

This thick and hearty soup made with ham, lentils and tomatoes takes only 30 minutes to make and is a great way to brighten up a winter evening. It’s a whole meal in one bowl.

I find that my family, no matter what the weather, loves a bowl of soup. It warms them up and gets them chatting around the table.

Soups and casseroles are great family fare, but usually take too long to make for a midweek meal. This quick meal fits the bill.

This is the type of meal that you can improvise when you haven’t been to the supermarket. Chicken broth, canned tomatoes and canned beans are staples in my pantry. Also, I normally have onions, celery and carrots in the refrigerator.

If you don’t have basil, leave it out and add any fresh greens you have in the refrigerator.

Wine suggestion: A rose would be perfect.

Helpful hints

Canned whole tomatoes can be used instead of diced. Break them up with the side of a spoon as they go into the saucepan. Toast can be made in a toaster oven or under the broiler.

Countdown
Start soup.
While soup simmers, heat broiler and make toast.
Complete soup.

Shopping list
To buy: 1/4 pound honey-smoked deli ham, 1 small package dried lentils, 1 bottle ground cumin, 1 small bunch basil, 1 can low-sodium diced tomatoes, 1 bottle balsamic vinegar, 1 package frozen chopped onion and 1 loaf whole grain country bread.
Staples: Olive oil, garlic, salt and black peppercorns.
Soup recipes with Bill & Sheila

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