Wine to match sauces, condiments

Spanishchef.net recommends these products

Wine to match sauces, condiments

Lynne Char Bennett
Sunday, December 4, 2011 (from our RSS feeds)

Enjoyable wine and food pairings depend on many variables, such as whether the dish includes a sauce or condiment as a primary flavor component.

This year, I’ve created three entree recipes, each accompanied by a sauce or condiment, to pair with a general wine style. Though the main ingredients of each dish – pork, lamb and beef – suggest certain wine, it is the accompaniment that seals the deal.

You might even take the apple cider-ginger sauce and use it with chicken instead of pork; or serve the cranberry chutney with duck instead of lamb. The dish should still work with the general wine style.

I’ve also provided two other course suggestions with each recipe to help you brainstorm an entire menu, which like the recipe accompaniments and general wine suggestions, can become a mix-and-match affair.

- Lynne Char Bennett, [email protected].

Flank Steak & Swiss Chard Roulade With Red Wine Sauce
Serves 4-6

Flank steak is less expensive than beef tenderloin and can be made into a terrific show-off dish such as a roulade. Wine – Cabernet Sauvignon and red Bordeaux-style blends are ideal for this dish and a mustard-spiked red wine sauce that moderates the Swiss chard and improves the pairing. With the Swiss chard in the stuffing, you may not want an additional side vegetable, though a whole grain wild rice pilaf makes a nice bed for shingled slices of the roulade. The only other thing you need is perhaps a soup such as Cauliflower Soup With Aromatic Oil & Fried Shallots (go to sfg.ly/vDzUSG) and an apple or pear galette for dessert.

• Roulade
• 1 large bunch green Swiss chard
• 1 tablespoon olive oil + more as needed
• 1/2 cup finely diced yellow onion
• – Kosher salt, to taste
• 1 teaspoon minced garlic
• 1/2 teaspoon minced thyme
• 2 to 3 teaspoons Amontillado sherry
• – Freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• 2 to 3 ounces grated Gouda or Gruyere cheese, about 1/2- to 3/4-cup, to taste
• 1/3 to 1/2 cup panko bread crumbs
• 1 large flank steak, about 1 1/4 -1 1/2 pounds, butterflied along the grain (see Note)
• Sauce
• 1 to 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 2 tablespoons minced shallot
• 1 cup dry, not-too-tannic red wine
• 1 cup no- or low-salt chicken stock
• – Pinch of minced thyme (optional)
• 1/2 cup veal demiglace
• 1 teaspoon spicy brown mustard
• – Kosher salt and pepper to taste
• 2 to 3 tablespoons cold butter, cut into several pieces

For the roulade: Cut out Swiss chard’s white ribs; discard or save for another use. Slice leaves thinly crosswise, rinse well and spin dry. Working in batches if necessary, steam leaves for 2 minutes. Spread on a rack or rimmed baking sheet to cool then squeeze dry.

In a medium skillet or sauté pan over medium heat, add 1 tablespoon olive oil, onions and a little salt. Cook until onions have softened then add garlic and thyme. Cook a minute or so more until garlic is aromatic and edges of onions start to lightly brown; add sherry. Remove pan from heat, add chard leaves, combine well with onion mixture, season to taste with salt and pepper; set aside.

Combine cheese and panko in a small bowl; set aside.

Oil, then lightly season flank steak all over with salt and pepper. Place with its smoothest side down on a piece of plastic wrap or parchment. Spread chard across the top, leaving a 1/2- to 3/4-inch border on 3 sides and a little larger border on the wider (and/or thicker) edge that runs with the grain (this will become the outside edge). Compact the chard, then evenly spread the cheese-panko mixture over.

Starting with the narrower/thinner edge that runs with the grain, slowly roll flank steak up. You can use the parchment to help form the roll. Stop to firm as needed – you want to avoid air pockets. Secure with butchers string with ties about 3/4-inch apart (make the first tie in the middle of the roulade).

The flank steak can be made ahead to this point; tightly wrap in plastic and refrigerate. Bring to room temperature before roasting, or you can make all the components the day before then assemble before cooking.

For the sauce: Heat olive oil in a medium non-reactive skillet or saucepan over medium heat; add shallots and saute until soft and no more than light golden brown. Add the wine and reduce until less than about 1/4 cup. Add the stock and the thyme if using. Reduce by at least three-fourths. Whisk in the demiglace, mustard and season to taste with salt and pepper. The sauce can be made ahead to this point; reheat before continuing with recipe. Remove warmed sauce from the heat and whisk or swirl in the cold butter one piece at a time until incorporated. Adjust seasoning if needed.

To finish: Depending on its thickness, remove roulade at least 1-2 hours before roasting. Place on a rack atop a rimmed baking sheet lined with parchment of foil. Move oven rack to the middle and preheat to 325°. Roast until internal temperature of the meat is 125° for medium-rare, about 40-50 minutes depending on thickness of the roulade. (If you have one, an instant-read digital thermometer is easiest to use and the most accurate.) Tent with foil and rest for 5-10 minutes before slicing.

If you want a more browned, crusty exterior, optionally sear in a very hot pan lightly coated with oil.

Note: Sizes and weights of flank steak vary greatly, though you can ask your butcher if a large one is available. I found one that worked perfectly: It was about 5 1/2-inches wide, 11-inches long and nearly 3/4-inch thick, which makes it easier to butterfly evenly. Ask your butcher for help.

This site is hosted by (click on the graphic for more information) wine