Filipino food — taste the freshness and flavor as sweet, sour, salty and vinegary blend
Cecilia de Castro, owner of the Academy of Culinary Education (ACE), is out to dispel the common notion that her native Filipino food is “greasy, fried, brown, boring, unhealthy and ugly.”
Philippine cuisine is a mixture of Spanish, Chinese and Malay influences, she says. “The trinity in Filipino cooking is garlic, onions and tomatoes, which is in many dishes.
“The Filipino cuisine features a combination of sweet, sour, salty and vinegary flavors with a sprinkling of bitter. Contrasting tastes are common such as eating something sour but dipping it in something sweet or eating something salty with a sour fruit condiment,” she points out.
The food consists of “lots of vegetables and fresh fruits, seafood (being a country consisting
of thousands of islands) and other viandes such as chicken, pork, beef, carabao (water buffalo) and goat.” Rice is a staple and noodles are popular, too. “The most common cooking techniques are grilling, steaming, boiling, braising, sauteing (stir-frying), ginataan (cooking in coconut milk) and frying.”
Filipino dishes range from simple to exotic, but “for the most part I think the cooking is very simple.”
Filipinos love to have many condiments on the table and that’s the way diners change or finish the seasoning or the flavor of a dish – with items such as fish sauce, soy sauce mixed with calamansi or lemon, chopped tomatoes, chopped mango, grilled mashed eggplant, cilantro, onions, banana ketchup (sweet or spicy versions) and fermented
shrimp (bagoong). “Each diner in a sense is a chef.”
The food is also very regional, she continues, adding that the area of the country – Pampanga (20 miles from Manila), where her parents were born and raised – was known as the culinary capital of the Philippines and noted for its pastries and sweets. That’s how both sides of the family ended up in the wholesale confectionary business many years ago.
Growing up in a traditional Filipino household, “we ate five meals a day – three main ones (breakfast, lunch and dinner) and two smaller ones (snacks). … Everyday food (meals almost always started with soup) was a selection of simple fare like steamed or grilled rock fish, pampano or halibut, clams or shrimp, some chicken or pork, nilaga (chicken soup), sinigang (sour soup), steamed rice, adobo, bistek, noodles and platters of fresh vegetables and fruits (sometimes leche flan with cassava for dessert),” she recalled. “The dishes were served family style. Chilled or iced fruit juice was also served (coconut water, calamansi and mango juice).
“Many weekends were filled with family gatherings at our our home with lots of cooking, baking, dining with the extended family (grandparents, cousins, aunts and uncles) – 30 to 50 people – and it was always a party.
“On weekends, my mom would do the grand cooking and serve things like Philippine paella, fresh lumpia, kilawin (ceviche), oxtail stew, roasted baby pig, meringue and buttercream pastry. Pochero was a special occasion/weekend dish I loved,” says de Castro, adding that it came from the Spanish. Almost like a casserole or cassoulet, it contains a tomato sauce base with chicken, pork, sausage, vegetables, bok choy, cabbage, green beans, potatoes and fried bananas.
These days, her brother and sisters and their families get together some weekends at her beautiful home in Los Angeles to enjoy lots of Filipino eating. “We love noodle pansit, lumpia, Filipino barbecue (pork, chicken and
calamari marinated in garlic, sugar, vinegar and soy sauce) and grilled items.
“My comfort food is Filipino food, and I eat it 10 to 15 percent of the time,” notes de Castro, adding that the rest of the time she dines on American, French, Asian, Italian and Calfornia fare. “I love anything grilled (burgers, fish, etc.), fruits, coffee ice cream and freshly fried french fries,” she adds.
De Castro, the youngest of eight children and a native of Manila, lived there until the age of 16, when after high school, she immigrated to the United States with her parents in the fall of 1974. Some of her older siblings had settled in this country in the mid-’60s. After a year in Canoga Park, the family moved to Northridge.
In 1975, de Castro enrolled at Cal State Northridge, with the dream of eventually becoming a doctor. But all that changed in her second year when she switched to a home economics major with hopes of focusing on someday working in the food industry – restaurants and hotels. “I wanted to be in foods and make people happy,” she says.
Food was perhaps her natural calling as she was exposed to and worked in the family confectionary business (making Spanish and French pastries based on cashews) while growing up. “I started baking at an early age.”
In her third year of college she lined up a job to assist a chef developing recipes at $2.85 an hour. She didn’t know who or where it was, but “I made a smart move. I ended up assisting and writing recipes for Ma Cuisine Cooking School, which was three months old at the time. I worked with chefs Wolfgang Puck, Jonathan Waxman, Ken Frank and the late Jean Bertranou.”
And then by chance at the end of her senior year, 1980, (after a basics class was listed – de Castro’s idea – in the cooking school brochure and the school was unable to find a chef to teach it), she was drafted to teach the six-class series. A newspaper article on the classes created a demand for more.
After graduating with a bachelor’s degree in Food Science and Nutrition, “I begged Wolfgang to let me work with him in the kitchen at Ma Maison restaurant on Melrose. I worked 17-hour days – at various stations – pastry, garde manger.”
In 1982 she left to begin working with Puck at Spago on a project basis (not in the kitchen) until 2009, doing events, teaching, helping with cookbooks, his cooking shows, Home Shopping Network products, developing recipes and much more.
During the same time frame, she continued teaching and developing culinary programs at Ma Cuisine Cooking School (until ’96), at University of California Los Angeles Extension program (’85-’97), at Westlake Culinary Institute at Let’s Get Cookin’ (1988-2009). Last year she opened her own school, ACE, in Woodland Hills, offering a professional culinary program.
Graduates from the various culinary programs have become chefs or are working with chefs around the area. Many of her students also volunteer to help chefs prepare and serve dinners at various awards show or after parties around town.
De Castro describes her cooking style as a fusion of California, French and Filipino cooking. “Cook simply with the best, freshest in-season ingredients. Use what is available near you. The food and ingredients should speak for themselves.” Be sure to season, season, season, with layers of seasonings cooked into the food along the way so all the flavors don’t end up on the outside.
“Garnish with ingredients that are part of the dish and are something that you’ll eat.”
If you’re looking for Filipino style ingredients or to experience some of the country’s fare, stop by Seafood City in North Hills (other locations are in Panorama City, Los Angeles and Long Beach), suggests de Castro. Besides a market, the location features a bakery and food court. Island Pacific is another Filipino market with Valley locations.
CHEF’S NOTES
Here are notes on some of the recipes shared by Cecilia de Castro so cooks can get to know the cuisine:
Bistek. Bistek is very simple to prepare with calamansi, a small green to yellow Philippine citrus fruit available fresh in summer or in juice form, bottled or frozen in Asian markets. Although de Castro opts to use beef filet for best results, flank, sirloin or round steaks can also be substituted.
Adobo. “Adobo is both a dish and a cooking technique,” points out de Castro. “It refers to a protein (just about any meat of fish) or vegetable that is cooked in vinegar, garlic, pepper, salt and/or soy sauce. Easy and versatile, this is probably the first Filipino dish that is taught to someone who wants to learn the cuisine. I like to cook mushrooms or kangkong (water cabbage) adobo style.”
To get authentic Adobo taste, use Philippine vinegar (more acidic than cider or rice vinegar) available in Asian markets, she advises. She suggests serving adobo with steamed or sauteed shrimp, chopped tomatoes and cilantro.
Lumpia. De Castro refers to her lumpia recipe as Lumpiang Manila (after where she was born) instead of Lumpiang Shanghai (named after a city in China). “Lumpia or spring roll wrappers for making fresh or fried rolls, can be found in the freezer section of Asian markets.” Because they don’t contain eggs like traditional eggroll or wonton wrappers, they fry to a crispier texture, she notes.
Banana ketchup. Banana ketchup (sweet or spicy) is a favorite among Filipinos as a dipping sauce for fried dishes such as lumpia, chicken, pork or fish. Although the commercial store-bought version is red, her homemade version is mustard colored.
Pansit. The pansit or noodle dish is eaten as both an entree for a big meal or an afternoon snack (merienda) by Filipinos. Skip the protein and simplify it by using just one or two vegetables if desired.
Saba. De Castro features saba, a type of cooking banana known here as burro or macho bananas, in her caramelized banana dessert rolls, a common street food in the Phillipines. “Plantains can be used as a substitute. In both cases, wait for the skin to turn yellow-brown and soft before using.”
De Castro recollects the pop-up stalls on street corners growing up and the smell of caramelized sugar on fried bananas and yams that tempted children as they walked home from school. Although she was not allowed to buy them, “the family cook occasionally surprised us with her special version, which were loaded with fresh ripe langka (jackfruit). Fresh langka is hard to find here but you can substitute the canned or preferably the jarred variety available in most Asian markets.
Recipes
All recipes that follow are shared by Cecilia de Castro, owner of Academy of Culinary Education, Woodland Hills.
BISTEK FILIPINO
(Philippine Style Beef Steak)
1/4 cup calamansi juice (available bottled OR frozen in Asian markets) OR lemon juice
1/2 cup soy sauce
Kosher salt
1 pound beef filet, flank, sirloin OR round steak, thinly sliced
3 tablespoons vegetable oil
1/2 cup beef stock OR broth
1 tablespoon butter
1 medium yellow onion, peeled, cut into 1/2-inch round slices
Freshly ground pepper to taste
Minced green onions, optional
In a non-reactive bowl such as glass or stainless steel, combine calamansi juice, soy sauce and 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt. Add beef and marinate 10 minutes.
In a medium saut pan, over high heat, add 2 tablespoons oil and heat until hot. Pan-fry marinated beef (reserve marinade), a few slices at a time, to medium doneness. Transfer to a plate. Deglaze pan with beef stock, add reserved marinade, heat to boiling and reduce until thickened, 2 to 3 minutes. Add butter and return beef to pan until well coated. Transfer to serving platter.
Add remaining 1 tablespoon oil to saut pan over medium heat and heat until hot. Add and saute yellow onions until translucent, about 3 to 4 minutes. Season to taste with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper. Place onions on top of beef slices. Garnish with green onions. Serve warm with hot steamed rice. Makes 4 servings.
CHICKEN ADOBO
1 (3-pound) chicken, cut into 8 pieces
2 tablespoons chopped garlic
1/2 cup Philippine vinegar (available in Asian markets) OR white wine vinegar
1/4 cup soy sauce
1/2 tablespoon kosher salt
1 teaspoon black peppercorns, crushed
2 bay leaves, optional
1/2 cup water
Pinch sugar
In a large pot or dutch oven, combine chicken pieces, garlic, vinegar, soy sauce, salt, peppercorns, bay leaves, water and sugar. Bring to a boil, then reduce heat to a simmer. Cover and cook until chicken is cooked through, about 25 to 30 minutes.
Preheat oven broiler. Transfer chicken pieces to a broiler pan or baking sheet and broil 6 to 8 inches from heat source until golden, about 4 to 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, reduce adobo sauce remaining in cooking pot over high heat until slightly thickened, about 3 to 4 minutes. Pour over browned chicken and serve warm with hot steamed rice. Makes 4 servings.
NOTE: Serve with steamed or sauteed peeled shrimp, chopped tomatoes and chopped cilantro, if desired.
LUMPIANG MANILA
(Fried Mini Spring Rolls)
1 pound ground pork (OR any protein such as beef, chicken, turkey, salmon, etc.)
1 pound shrimp, peeled, deveined and ground
1/2 cup minced yellow onions
1/2 cup minced carrots
1/2 cup minced celery
1/2 cup minced jicama
1/4 cup minced green onions
1 egg, lightly beaten
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1/4 teaspoon freshly ground black pepper
20 large square sheets (8×8-inch) lumpia OR spring roll wrappers
1 egg white, lightly beaten with 1 tablespoon water, for eggwash
Vegetable oil for deep frying
Dipping sauces of your choice (spicy banana ketchup OR spicy sweet and sour sauce)
In a medium bowl, combine ground pork, ground shrimp, yellow onions, carrots, celery, jicama, green onions, beaten egg, salt and pepper. Mix until well blended. (Note: make a small patty and pan fry. Taste and adjust seasoning as desired.)
Fit a pastry bag with a #7 plain tip. (Using a pastry bag speeds the process of making the rolls. However, as a substitute, use a thick plastic bag, cutting one of the ends OR spoon mixture onto each wrapper.) Transfer meat and vegetable mixture into pastry bag. Lay out a lumpia wrapper. Pipe filling mixture (crosswise) in a row across the bottom length (closest to you) of the wrapper. Roll the wrapper tightly around the mixture, forming a cigar shape. Brush the inside edge of the wrapper with eggwash to seal. Repeat procedure to make about 20 cigar-length lumpias. Freeze the lumpias at least 1 hour before frying for crispier, well formed rolls.
To fry, in a wok or large skillet, heat oil, a depth of 1-inch, to 350 degrees F. Meanwhile, cut each lumpia into 3 equal pieces. Fry, several pieces at a time, about 6 to 8 minutes, until golden and done. Transfer to a strainer or plate lined with paper towels to absorb excess oil. Serve hot with favorite dipping sauces. Makes about 60 (3-inch) pieces.
NOTE: Lumpia or spring roll wrappers are usually available in the freezer section of Asian markets.
PANSIT BIHON GUISADO
(Sauteed Rice Noodles)
1/2 pound dry bihon (rice noodles without egg)
4 ounces pork butt, cut into 1/2×1-inch pieces
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 tablespoons vegetable oil
2 cups chicken stock OR broth
4 teaspoons minced garlic
4 ounces skinless, boneless chicken breast, cut into 1/2×1-inch pieces
4 ounces medium shrimp, peeled and deveined
1 small yellow onion, peeled, cut in half and thinly sliced
1 carrot, peeled and cut into thin julienne strips and/or round slices
1 cup shredded green cabbage
2 baby bok choy, cut in quarters lengthwise
1 rib celery, cut in 1/2-inch slices
1 cup Chinese snow peas, trimmed
2 tablespoons soy sauce
2 tablespoons oyster sauce
1/4 cup minced green onions
Cilantro sprigs, optional
Hard-cooked eggs, quartered, optional
Calamansi OR lemon wedges, optional
In a bowl, soak rice noodles in cold water 10 minutes (so noodles cook faster). Drain and reserve.
Season pork with salt and pepper to taste. Add 1 tablespoon oil to a wok or large skillet over high heat and heat until hot. Add pork and saut until lightly browned. Add 1/2 cup chicken stock and bring to a boil. Reduce to a simmer and cook until tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Transfer to a platter and reserve.
In the same wok, add 2 tablespoons oil, heat until hot, add and saut garlic in oil until light golden, about 30 seconds. Add chicken and shrimp, season with salt and pepper and saut until done, about 2 to 3 minutes. Transfer to the platter with pork and reserve.
In the same wok, add remaining 1 tablespoon oil and over high heat, saut yellow onion 30 seconds. Continue to add vegetables (leaving each already in the skillet) in the following order, saut ing each 30 seconds before adding the next: carrots, cabbage, baby bok choy, celery and Chinese snow peas. Transfer to a serving platter and reserve.
In the same wok, add remaining 1 1/2 cups chicken stock, soy sauce and oyster sauce. Add drained rice noodles and bring to a boil while stirring the mixture. Continue to cook until noodles are tender, about 4 to 5 minutes. Return reserved cooked vegetables and meat medley to wok. Stir until well blended.
Serve on a large platter. Garnish with green onions, cilantro sprigs, eggs and calamansi or lemon wedges. Serve immediately. Makes 6 to 8 servings.
TURON SAGING
(Fried Caramelized Banana Rolls)
3 ripe saba bananas, peeled and cut into 4 lengthwise pieces OR plaintains (either should be yellow-brown and soft before using)
1/2 cup packed brown sugar
12 large square (8×8-inch) lumpia OR spring roll wrappers
1/2 cup thin julienne strips ripe langka (jackfruit; use jarred variety found in most Asian markets when fresh is out of season), optional
1 egg white plus 1 tablespoon water, beaten together for eggwash
Vegetable oil for frying
Store-bought Philippine fruit-flavored ice creams, such as langka (jackfruit) and ube-macapuno (purple yam-coconut) (available at Asian or Filipino markets)
Roll each banana piece in brown sugar. Place diagonally in the center of each lumpia wrapper. Add a few strips of langka. Roll up tightly, brushing top inside edge with eggwash to seal. Repeat process with remaining banana pieces.
In a large skillet, heat oil, a depth of 2 inches, to 350 degrees F. Deep-fry banana rolls, a few at a time, until golden and caramelized, about 6 to 7 minutes. Remove rolls to a strainer with a pair of tongs and let drain (do not place on paper towels as the rolls will stick). Cut each roll on the diagonal in half. Serve 2 or 3 banana roll slices per person with a scoop each of jackfruit and purple yam-coconut ice creams. Makes 10 to 12 servings.
