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Italian

Italy’s food trail leads north

Italian food takes centre stage in my world. The regional cuisine of Italy celebrates food that is related to landscape, place, people and the season.

At this time on the planet, food that connects people and place to the table is as good as it gets in my book.

Italy is a country with an amazing mix of things to excite the imagination. It is the mystique and the magic of Italy, from top to bottom, that keeps it at the top of the list of destinations for people.

One of the most fascinating qualities of Italy is its variety of landscapes, language and dialects, its variety of ancient invaders and descendants, and a variety of cuisine that is so closely linked to landscape and terroir.

Italians can trace their lineage to the Celts, Etruscans, Greeks, Goths, Lombards, Arabs, Normans, French, Spanish and Austrians. In the northwest, the language is influenced by French, and conversely in the northeast, it is German. To the south, proximity to North Africa has impacts.

The cuisine is equally varied. The Sicilians, the Piedmontese and the Venetians are so different in their tastes and creativity, and the food reflects this.

It is said that if you discover the cuisine of a region, you discover the people and how they think and what they believe.

Each community has its own gastronomic emblem, the celebration of that emblem linked to the rhythm of the seasons and the time of harvest.

This means that there isn’t a cuisine of Italy, no matter how much people may associate “Italian food” with just pizza and pasta. The cuisine of Italy is all about the food of the various regions of the country and what is special and unique to that region.

This story celebrates the food of Emilia Romagna, and most particularly Parma. Parma is located towards the north of Italy – a little off the main trunk line of Italian tourism, but for the culinary tourist, and anyone who seeks to explore the links between food and culture, this is the place to come.

It is a land of pigs and cows. The animals are fed a range of grasses and other natural non-fermenting products from the local area, which enrich their milk and meat with the secret tastes of the place.

The region is home to some famous products. Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, made from the milk of the cows of the region, and the succulent and sweet Proscuitto di Parma, made from the big white pigs of Italy.

The region also produces aceto balsamico (balsamic vinegar), the gorgeous black liquor made from the must of the Trebbiano grape.

These products are protected and governed by the quality rules of a consortium of producers. The products must be produced, processed and prepared in the area. They must be traditionally manufactured and, as a result, acquire unique ageing properties.

The recipes that follow have been selected and made by James Perry, culinary educator at NMIT.

James and I have had the pleasure of visiting the Parma region in developing a relationship with Academia Barilla, the culinary institute in Parma that is part of the Barilla Pasta Group.

James has been trained by Academia Barilla and now offers its special education at NMIT. Students studying cookery at NMIT can achieve a qualification from Academia Barilla, and food lovers can also study the programme as an intensive short course.

James was born and raised in Bermuda of Portuguese parentage. He has worked around the world – immersed in the discipline of an Austrian Michelin-starred restaurant, from the kitchens of the luxurious cruise ship QEII, to Huka Lodge and back to Bermuda before settling on the role of a culinary educator in Nelson.

He now flies the flag for Italian regional cuisine in the Nelson area, and shares his expertise in these great recipes from the Emilia Romagna region.

A note about cheese – please buy the real parmigiano reggiano, available at supermarkets or the Mediterranean Food Warehouse. It makes a huge difference to the taste of the dishes.

TORTELLI DI ERBETTE (SILVERBEET AND RICOTTA-STUFFED RAVIOLI)

Serve this as an entree

Serves 4

For the filling

1 bunch silverbeet – about 6 large leaves.
600g ricotta cheese
50g grated parmigiano reggiano cheese
25g butter
1 egg
Pinch of nutmeg
Salt

For pasta

400g 00 flour – available from the Mediterranean market
2 eggs
Sauce
50g butter
Grated parmigiano reggiano cheese

To make the filling: Clean the silverbeet, remove the “ribs” and put into a saucepan with a little water to stop it from sticking. Put the lid on the pot and cook over a gentle heat until the silverbeet has wilted.

Turn off the heat and put the silverbeet into a sieve to drain and cool. When cool, squeeze out the moisture.

Combine the ricotta and the parmigiano reggiano cheese. Chop an onion finely and saute in a little butter. Chop the silverbeet finely and add to the onion. Cool the mixture, then add the beaten egg, a pinch of salt and a pinch of freshly grated nutmeg. Mix the cheeses and silverbeet together.

To make the dough: Combine the flour, egg and as much water as necessary to make a dough that holds together well and is firm and dry. Knead for about 10 minutes until it is smooth and elastic. Roll out as thinly as possible. You need the dough to be large enough to make 24 individual tortelli – about 1 metre by 200mm wide.

Putting it together: Place 1 tablespoon of the ricotta mixture over half the dough, each spoonful spaced about 5cm apart. Fold the other half of the sheet over and press around the cheese mixture. Cut into rectangles about 60mm by 80mm, preferably using a pasta cutter. Close the edges by pressing with the tip of a fork. Cook the tortelli in well-salted water in a large pasta pot for 15 minutes, and drain well. Reserve a little of the pasta water.

In a large pan, melt the butter and add the cooked tortelli. Toss gently. Add a ladleful of the pasta water to add starch to the sauce. Sprinkle with the cheese and torn sage leaves. Serve immediately with some slow-roasted cherry tomatoes to garnish.

RISOTTO ALLA PARMIGIANO REGGIANO

200g Carnaroli or Arborio rice
1 onion, finely chopped
20g butter
2 Tbsp olive oil
50g grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
1 litre white stock
1 cup dry white wine
Salt to taste

Place a large pot on a medium heat. Add 1 Tbsp of butter and 2 Tbsp of oil. Once the butter has melted, add the finely chopped onion.

When the onion is golden, add the rice and toast it for a couple of minutes until it begins to change colour and appear more opaque.

Add the white wine, stir and let it cook until evaporated.

Add the stock a little at a time, and cook the risotto over a low heat for 15 minutes or until it is cooked al dente.

When the risotto is done, remove the pot from the heat, adjust the salt and stir in the remaining butter and grated Parmigiano Reggiano. Stir until creamy and serve immediately.

Serve with steamed zucchini and broccoli cut into thick rounds and steamed until just cooked and still bright green and crunchy.

COSTOLETTE D’AGNELLO ALLA PARMIGIANA (LAMB CHOPS, PARMA STYLE)

Serves 4

Use 4 double rib lamb chops from a rack of lamb. Prepare each double chop by removing one of the rib bones, and leave the other attached. Flatten the cutlets by placing between two pieces of wax paper on a wooden board and hitting with a heavy kitchen implement such as a rolling pin or pestle until evenly flat and no more than 10-15mm thick.

120g flour
2 large eggs
Salt and pepper to taste
3/4 cup bread crumbs, preferably freshly made.
2 Tbsp butter
2 Tbsp olive oil
To bake:
3 Tbsp freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano cheese
200ml beef stock
Preheat oven to 180C.

Once you have flattened the cutlets, bread them by first dipping them in the flour, then the beaten eggs, and finally the bread crumbs. Ensure that all of the cutlets have an even coating.

Heat 4Tbsp of equal parts butter and oil in a fry pan over a medium heat, and saute the chops until golden brown. Each side should take about 30 seconds.

Place the chops in a roasting pan, add the stock and sprinkle the freshly grated Parmigiano Reggiano on to each cutlet. Bake for about five minutes, or until the cheese is incorporated into the meat. Serve immediately.

ZABAGLIONE

Serves 4

8 egg yolks
16 Tbsp Marsala wine, dry
8 Tbsp sugar

In a round-bottomed bowl, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar and then gradually blend in the marsala.

Cook over a pot of boiling water, whisking constantly in order to incorporate air into the mixture to make it soft and foaming. This is not a fast process.

You have to try to keep the mixture at around 36C or blood temperature. If the egg mixture becomes too hot, it will curdle and you will end up with scrambled eggs, so a bit of attention is required. The zabaglione will become thick and airy when cooked.

Pour into glasses and serve warm. Accompany with fresh strawberries or Melicotti cookies.

– Nelson